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Does it matter? (Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952)
Posted on: 6/13/22 3:44 PM ET
I'm about to make yet another Fehr Trade Surf to Summit rash guard for lap swimming in an outdoor pool. In the past I have always laid out pattern pieces according to the grainline, but I'm wondering how significant that is with swimsuit fabric that has 18% spandex and virtually the same amount of stretch whether I test along the grain, cross-grain and along the bias.
I also have another piece that is the perfect size to cut out the front panel, but this remnant is no longer attached to a selvage, so I can't be sure that I'm not slightly off-grain.
I'm color blocking and would like to use remnants for the sleeve, but it will only work if I cut on the cross-grain. Any thoughts?
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I also have another piece that is the perfect size to cut out the front panel, but this remnant is no longer attached to a selvage, so I can't be sure that I'm not slightly off-grain.
I'm color blocking and would like to use remnants for the sleeve, but it will only work if I cut on the cross-grain. Any thoughts?
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"The camera is an instrument that teaches people how to see without a camera." - Dorothea Lange
http://donnabrunet.com
http://donnabrunet.com
Posted on: 6/13/22 4:28 PM ET
With that type of knit, I don't think it matter as much. Although, given the choice, I think most sewists would cut the pieces so that the direction with the most stretch goes around the body. If the color blocking that you want to do only fits with the pattern piece turned in a certain direction, perhaps you'll want to make sure that the other pieces have sufficient stretch around the body.
I still remember in college wearing the old style Speedo and Arena brand suits that had only mechanical stretch. Anything is better than that!
But those old suits sure lasted forever in a chlorinated pool.
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I still remember in college wearing the old style Speedo and Arena brand suits that had only mechanical stretch. Anything is better than that!
But those old suits sure lasted forever in a chlorinated pool.------
So many books, so little time; and even more fabric, and even less time
Posted on: 6/14/22 6:23 AM ET
In reply to mrsm
I remember those suits. They were the reason I learned to sew swimsuits on a Singer 99! Weggies and torn seams were the Bain of my 5’10” lifeguard existence. I usually wore two suits to prevent surprises during training and competition 
Thank goodness for lycra
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Thank goodness for lycra

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If it can be done with a needle and thread, I can do it!
Posted on: 6/14/22 10:21 AM ET
Test the stretch carefully in both directions. What matters more than grainline is the degree of greatest stretch. DOGS is the acronym. The pattern designer should specify that either on the pattern piece or in the cutting directions. It makes a difference in fit and comfort.
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Sewing keeps me sane.
My herd includes a Singer Sewhandy, Bernina Artista 180, vintage Bernina 830 Record, Pfaff 794 serger, Juki 634D, Babylock BLCS2, Singer Slant Needle 403 from my grandmother, a Husqvarna 6570, a Viking Quilt Designer SE and my latest bargain Janome MC 10000.
My herd includes a Singer Sewhandy, Bernina Artista 180, vintage Bernina 830 Record, Pfaff 794 serger, Juki 634D, Babylock BLCS2, Singer Slant Needle 403 from my grandmother, a Husqvarna 6570, a Viking Quilt Designer SE and my latest bargain Janome MC 10000.
Posted on: 6/14/22 5:28 PM ET
It's all about the DOGS, as mentioned above by Lynn. Swimwear fabrics often have the DOGS aligned with the selvedge so you would turn your pattern pieces 90 degrees to accommodate that.
Posted on: 6/14/22 10:56 PM ET
In reply to Lynn Scott
DOGS - Thanks for the acronym! If the OP cuts her contrast piece with the DOGS vertical, rather than horizontal, is she risking that the contrast piece will lengthen/sag in an unappealing manner when it gets wet?
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So many books, so little time; and even more fabric, and even less time
Posted on: 6/14/22 11:16 PM ET
In reply to mrsm
Thanks for asking my question apparently better than I did. Before posting my question I checked the percentage of stretch in 3 directions - grain, cross-grain and bias. There was only a very minimal difference in the stretch - 4" stretched to 7" selvedge to selvedge and at a 45 degree angle, and to 6 1/2" parallel with the selvedge.
I've made this pattern probably 10 times lining up the grain line on the pattern pieces with the selvedge. I'm going to cut the body pieces this way again and am only curious if anyone thinks there is a problem cutting the sleeves in the opposite direction. I'm confident that if I cut the sleeves in the direction that stretches to 6 1/2" instead of 7" that it will still fit. I'm just wondering if anyone thinks that there will be a problem that I'm not anticipating.
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I've made this pattern probably 10 times lining up the grain line on the pattern pieces with the selvedge. I'm going to cut the body pieces this way again and am only curious if anyone thinks there is a problem cutting the sleeves in the opposite direction. I'm confident that if I cut the sleeves in the direction that stretches to 6 1/2" instead of 7" that it will still fit. I'm just wondering if anyone thinks that there will be a problem that I'm not anticipating.
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"The camera is an instrument that teaches people how to see without a camera." - Dorothea Lange
http://donnabrunet.com
http://donnabrunet.com
Posted on: 6/15/22 5:55 AM ET
In reply to Mantidfly
the only thing that might happen is the sleeve might be a bit tighter around the bicep (which might actually end up being a significant problem if you are making a rash guard and want to swim in this!). with stretch you cut with greatest stretch DoGS going around your body, usually the horizontal stretch. when you change the direction of grain, and use vertical stretch as DoGS...that gets translated to what is going around the bicep, widest part of your sleeve. all you need to do to compensate is give yourself a bit of extra seam allowance along the long vertical seam of the sleeve...if you need to you can make your sleeve a bit wider...if you don't need it, cut off extra.
Posted on: 6/15/22 8:12 AM ET
Do your best to go with the dogs. Sometimes you can see the rib to align. I get out my big magnifying glass with an LED light to find it.
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Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing: Elna 760, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3, Singer Model 99, Singer 221/Featherweight, Bernina 1630. Sergers: Babylock Enlighten and Babylock Ovation. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E. Embroidery/Sewing Combo: Brother Dream machine. Straight Stitch: Janome 1600P.
Certified Palmer/Pletsch Pants Fitting Instructor
Blog: 21stcenturydiy.blogspot.com
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing: Elna 760, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3, Singer Model 99, Singer 221/Featherweight, Bernina 1630. Sergers: Babylock Enlighten and Babylock Ovation. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E. Embroidery/Sewing Combo: Brother Dream machine. Straight Stitch: Janome 1600P.
Certified Palmer/Pletsch Pants Fitting Instructor
Blog: 21stcenturydiy.blogspot.com
Posted on: 6/15/22 8:22 AM ET
Also consider that most knit have a degree of appearance of Nap. So unless desired, but all pieces in the same direction.
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You can lead people to the truth, but can't make them think.
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