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Won’t they fray? (Moderated by EleanorSews)
Posted on: 8/16/22 11:55 AM ET
I’m having my first adventure with fisheye darts. The sources I’ve read suggest clipping the dart to get the fabric to lie well; but they don’t discuss finishing the cut edges. My fabric is fray-prone—double gauze—and there’s no lining. What do you do?
Posted on: 8/16/22 12:10 PM ET
The few times I've done this I have zig zagged the fabric OR finished with a line of stitching and pinking shears.
Posted on: 8/16/22 12:30 PM ET
What the directions mean is to snip horizontally through the dart take-up at the widest point. that allows the top and bottom halves of the dart to lie flat when pressed.
I just use pinking shears to make that snip. In a gauze, I would probably hand overcast the snipped edges after pressing the dart. It would be a lot faster than trying to machine finish, as it's not longer than an inch (2.5 cm), usually.
I just use pinking shears to make that snip. In a gauze, I would probably hand overcast the snipped edges after pressing the dart. It would be a lot faster than trying to machine finish, as it's not longer than an inch (2.5 cm), usually.
Posted on: 8/16/22 1:04 PM ET
I would not cut them and plan to press them more open afterwards, at all. Not on double or single cotton guaze fabric. Just because not only is that going to ravel away so easy and even if you did hand overstitch the raw edges of it, but also because most times things you make of those fabrics, are pretty loose fitting anyways. If you cut the darts seam allowance out, and try to press it open, because it's gauze, I think it's just going to wrinkle and crinkle up there, on the sides of that, kind of no matter what else you do. So my vote, is if you got those in that fabric, don't cut them open. Just let them be uncut.
Posted on: 8/16/22 1:24 PM ET
In reply to Moodlework
I don’t ever recall cutting up the middle of a fisheye dart. I just clip at the mid point about 1/4” to 3/8” and then maybe clip twice from the midpoint to the end of the dart. Then I think the dart is pressed toward the center of the garment. The reason to clip at the edge of the fisheye dart is to allow it to curve inward (or sometimes outward).
I couldn’t find a diagram but when I clip, I clip perpendicular to the fold of the fisheye dart. HTH
FWIW, if I were concerned about fraying where I clipped a fisheye dart, I would put a drop of FrayBloc on it and call it good. That stuff doesn’t dry harsh and scratchy like FrayCheck.
-- Edited on 8/16/22 at 1:29 PM ET --
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I couldn’t find a diagram but when I clip, I clip perpendicular to the fold of the fisheye dart. HTH
FWIW, if I were concerned about fraying where I clipped a fisheye dart, I would put a drop of FrayBloc on it and call it good. That stuff doesn’t dry harsh and scratchy like FrayCheck.
-- Edited on 8/16/22 at 1:29 PM ET --
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"Be kind whenever possible. It is always possible." Dalai Lama
"We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." Anais Nin
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"We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." Anais Nin
"Attitude is the difference between an adventure and an ordeal." unknown
“Be curious, not judgmental.” Ted Lasso
Posted on: 8/16/22 1:30 PM ET
And if I am serging, I just cut away the dart. At that point, I've basted it on the sewing machine, checked the fit, and then I just go for it, serging out the center of the dart as a sort of pointed football, not an angular kite shape.
Posted on: 8/16/22 2:40 PM ET
In reply to EleanorSews
Quote: EleanorSews
FWIW, if I were concerned about fraying where I clipped a fisheye dart, I would put a drop of FrayBloc on it and call it good. That stuff doesn’t dry harsh and scratchy like FrayCheck.
-- Edited on 8/16/22 at 1:29 PM ET --
FWIW, if I were concerned about fraying where I clipped a fisheye dart, I would put a drop of FrayBloc on it and call it good. That stuff doesn’t dry harsh and scratchy like FrayCheck.
-- Edited on 8/16/22 at 1:29 PM ET --
Oooh, this is good to know! Thank you!
This is why it's so good to read all the threads here; I pick up so many bits of useful info!
-- Edited on 8/16/22 at 2:41 PM ET --
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Machines: Janome New Home DC4030P, Singer 15/90, Bernette B68
Posted on: 8/16/22 7:59 PM ET
In reply to Ubik
A person does learn a lot from reading random threads
Posted on: 8/16/22 10:13 PM ET
If it’s double gauze, you might be able to stretch the dart intake so it curves with the shaping using water and a lot of hot steam from your iron.
If you do want to clip it, I suggest doing a line of very tiny stitches (1-1.5mm) right next to the dart stitch line, you only need like an inch along the widest part of the dart, then clipping right up to that line but not through it. I’d clip diagonally so your cut line is on the bias.
Another thing you could do, and I’ve seen this in vintage unlined garments, is to just trim the dart intake so that the width is a consistent 1/4-3/8” and then finishing that with either a tight zig zag or seam binding.
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If you do want to clip it, I suggest doing a line of very tiny stitches (1-1.5mm) right next to the dart stitch line, you only need like an inch along the widest part of the dart, then clipping right up to that line but not through it. I’d clip diagonally so your cut line is on the bias.
Another thing you could do, and I’ve seen this in vintage unlined garments, is to just trim the dart intake so that the width is a consistent 1/4-3/8” and then finishing that with either a tight zig zag or seam binding.
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Poly linings-- not even once
Posted on: 8/16/22 10:20 PM ET
They’re not big darts. Maybe I’ll try not clipping & see how it goes. Thank you for the suggestions, everyone.
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