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Posted on: 11/10/22 9:19 AM ET
I'm working on S9606. I have made this in the past but not with sleeves. I cut the sleeve as usual, except I made it a long sleeve. I've never had an issue with fitting sleeves but there is way too much ease on this and I'm not sure how to fix it.
The sleeve opening may be a bit tight once the sleeve is inserted.....considering a 5/8" seam allowance.
When gathering the sleeve and pinning into the armhole opening I have waaaay too much fabric on the sleeve cap- at least 1"-2". (Unless I wanted a super puffy sleeve top-which I don't).
How can I fix this? 1. I may need to cut a bit on the bodice sleeve opening to have more room and 2. How do I fix the excess ease on the cap? I don't want to cut the top of the sleeve cap before I really know how.
TIA
The sleeve opening may be a bit tight once the sleeve is inserted.....considering a 5/8" seam allowance.
When gathering the sleeve and pinning into the armhole opening I have waaaay too much fabric on the sleeve cap- at least 1"-2". (Unless I wanted a super puffy sleeve top-which I don't).
How can I fix this? 1. I may need to cut a bit on the bodice sleeve opening to have more room and 2. How do I fix the excess ease on the cap? I don't want to cut the top of the sleeve cap before I really know how.
TIA
Posted on: 11/10/22 9:33 AM ET
The style of the sleeve in this pattern is a gathered cap and a full sleeve gathered at the bottom. It is the design. My only suggestion to you is to pick a sleeve from a different pattern with the ease you like and see if it will fit into the armscye by making a muslin. You are wanting this sleeve design to be something it isn't.
That being said. online there are youtubes on how to take a basic sleeve, cut it and spread it open to get a puffed sleeve as in your pattern. You could possibly do the opposite, cut slits across the sleeve vertically and pull them together to eliminate width. You could also fold out width. I am not saying this will work as you have the sleeve cap shape to deal with , so again a muslin., You may want to check out youtube for sleeve drafting ideas.
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That being said. online there are youtubes on how to take a basic sleeve, cut it and spread it open to get a puffed sleeve as in your pattern. You could possibly do the opposite, cut slits across the sleeve vertically and pull them together to eliminate width. You could also fold out width. I am not saying this will work as you have the sleeve cap shape to deal with , so again a muslin., You may want to check out youtube for sleeve drafting ideas.
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http://lasewist.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 11/10/22 9:41 AM ET
In reply to solosmocker
I do have the sleeve gathered at the bottom and that seems good. The sleeve seam is serged, so I'm not sure where I can go from this. I do have extra fabric so I could remake the sleeve, but was hoping to save these since the placket, lower gathering and cuff are already done. I was looking for a way to "cut" the cap to have it fit, but not sure if this is possible or how to do it.
OR- just learn to love the extra puffy sleeve cap.
OR- just learn to love the extra puffy sleeve cap.
Posted on: 11/10/22 11:13 AM ET
In reply to SyndiMC
It looks like the sleeve from View D has a non-gathered cap -- can you lay the gathered cap on top of that pattern piece, and check the difference? You might be able to shape it based on that non-gathered cap, or even cut it down to fit more smoothly.
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Current WIP: Butterick 6493 (skirt)
Posted on: 11/10/22 11:50 AM ET
In reply to SyndiMC
Have you considered softly pleating the cap rather than gathering? That gives a flatter, but still full, look.
Posted on: 11/10/22 11:50 AM ET
In reply to SyndiMC
Duplicate
-- Edited on 11/10/22 at 11:51 AM ET --
-- Edited on 11/10/22 at 11:51 AM ET --
Posted on: 11/10/22 5:36 PM ET
In reply to SyndiMC

So, it's the first one, but you made the sleeves longer, and it's all done including the band on the bottom, but not sewn (in the round) into the arm hole yet?
There are a bunch of things you could do, without undoing anything, already done, but of course it would look different then. So, a "style choice" at that point. You could make a bunch of darts into the top of of the sleeve cap to take up some fabric there. You could pleat it instead. You could stick some pin tucks into it. You could have a few rows of extra gathering thread (decorative) just along the top part of the sleeve cap, not in any seam even to draw it in there and give a different look, it would still release the fullness someplace, but maybe an inch or so down from where it does without doing that. I would not cut into the armhole in the bodice front and back to make a much larger armhole though, just to get extra fabric to attach it to, I think you would not like that in the end. and you might loose some freedom to move your arms then too even.
Or, you might be able to cut the sleeve from view D, but shorter to just past or a bit past the underarm of that sleeve, cut off the whole top part of the sleeve with the band on it you already made and then gather that onto there on the bottom of that. That way you would still have long sleeves and they would puffy and gathered (in two places) at the band of them and also where they attached to the shortened sleeve D, part of sleeve. You would still have puffy there, but more not at the top of your shoulders then. I think the thing to do, what ever you choose though, is to hand baste it first without actually (on the sleeve you already got made up) cutting anything to scope what ever you wish to do out first and then actually try it on you, in front of a mirror, to see if you like that or not.
-- Edited on 11/10/22 at 6:17 PM ET --
Posted on: 11/10/22 7:59 PM ET
In reply to Chickey17
Chickey17’s method is what I’d try. If you want some puff, can you make the sleeve cap halfway between the one you have and view D.
Posted on: 11/11/22 8:48 AM ET
In reply to Chickey17
thank you Chickey.....I'll may try that, although I think, in the end, I may have to cut a new sleeve.
Posted on: 11/11/22 8:49 AM ET
In reply to kayl
Yes...that is a consideration. I'm going to try different methods and see what works best. I think I may have cut the sleeve too short, so making a new sleeve may be what I have to do
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