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Can you help? (Moderated by EleanorSews)
Posted on: 1/14/25 10:27 AM ET
Hello
I am making this robe which is unlined and there is an option to make French seams which I am attempting.
I have just attached the sleeve making the first seam with my serger. There are no stitching lines marked and I wasn't sure whether I needed to stitch from end to end on sleeve head when attaching it to the front and back. The diagram looked like that was the case on the pattern instructions. Now that I have done that I cannot see how it will attach under the arms.
The sleeve is stitched flat onto the front and back. Do I do 1 seam on the sleeve and then join up the side and sleeve seams and then do a second seam for a French seam?
Hope I have explained sufficiently. Any ideas?
-- Edited on 1/14/25 at 10:38 AM ET --
I am making this robe which is unlined and there is an option to make French seams which I am attempting.
I have just attached the sleeve making the first seam with my serger. There are no stitching lines marked and I wasn't sure whether I needed to stitch from end to end on sleeve head when attaching it to the front and back. The diagram looked like that was the case on the pattern instructions. Now that I have done that I cannot see how it will attach under the arms.
The sleeve is stitched flat onto the front and back. Do I do 1 seam on the sleeve and then join up the side and sleeve seams and then do a second seam for a French seam?
Hope I have explained sufficiently. Any ideas?
-- Edited on 1/14/25 at 10:38 AM ET --
Posted on: 1/14/25 10:49 AM ET
Not sure exactly what you're asking. What is it that you're trying to attach under the arms? Is there a gusset in there that doesn't show on the line drawings?
If you're sewing in the sleeves flat then stitching the sleeve and side seams in one go each side, you should complete and finish the seams attaching the sleeves to the fronts & back before doing the side/sleeve seams, whether you're doing french seams or something else. Press the seam allowance to whichever side you prefer and stitch straight over it when you do the side/sleeve seam. If there's a gusset, that would normally be added before stitching the side/sleeve seam.
I wouldn't overlock/serge the first pass of a french seam because all that thread will just add bulk. If the fabric feels like it needs more reinforcement than just the two straight-stitch passes of a regular french seam, you can do an extra pass in between the two, stitching the seam allowances to one side of the fabric.
If you're sewing in the sleeves flat then stitching the sleeve and side seams in one go each side, you should complete and finish the seams attaching the sleeves to the fronts & back before doing the side/sleeve seams, whether you're doing french seams or something else. Press the seam allowance to whichever side you prefer and stitch straight over it when you do the side/sleeve seam. If there's a gusset, that would normally be added before stitching the side/sleeve seam.
I wouldn't overlock/serge the first pass of a french seam because all that thread will just add bulk. If the fabric feels like it needs more reinforcement than just the two straight-stitch passes of a regular french seam, you can do an extra pass in between the two, stitching the seam allowances to one side of the fabric.
Posted on: 1/14/25 10:51 AM ET
If you are french-seaming set-in sleeves, it's a little bit fiddlier. There's a good tutorial here https://grainlinestudio.com/blogs/blog/french-all-your-seams
Posted on: 1/14/25 11:26 AM ET
In reply to JennyJB
For some reason (pixel indigestion, probably) your link didn't work for me, so I'm reposting it here in the hope this one does:
Grainline Studios French seams tutorial
Great tutorial!
Grainline Studios French seams tutorial
Great tutorial!
Posted on: 1/14/25 11:33 AM ET
In reply to sewing4therapy
Adding to JennyJB's excellent advice: I too would back away from serging the first pass seam. It not only adds bulk, but on some fabrics the threads can show through the finished enclosed seam (full disclaimer - I have a tendency to use 'close enough' coloured threads in my serger so perhaps I'm hyper aware of the problem
). Also, it can be useful to trim the first pass seam a little after stitching to make sure the second pass stitching completely encloses the seam and if you've serged it, you can't.
). Also, it can be useful to trim the first pass seam a little after stitching to make sure the second pass stitching completely encloses the seam and if you've serged it, you can't.
Posted on: 1/14/25 11:43 AM ET
In reply to JennyJB
No no gusset.
I am sewing the sleeves flat like a T shirt. I did in fact attach it as normal by mistake and not as a French seam. So it looks a bit easier now I have realised that. I think serging it was a mistake to do for a French seam but the pattern instructions suggested it.
I found pressing the sleeve seam allowance towards the sleeve is sitting more comfortably underneath the arm but I thought it was usually pressed towards the body.
I am sewing the sleeves flat like a T shirt. I did in fact attach it as normal by mistake and not as a French seam. So it looks a bit easier now I have realised that. I think serging it was a mistake to do for a French seam but the pattern instructions suggested it.
I found pressing the sleeve seam allowance towards the sleeve is sitting more comfortably underneath the arm but I thought it was usually pressed towards the body.
Posted on: 1/14/25 11:45 AM ET
In reply to JennyJB
Thank you for the tutorial
Posted on: 1/14/25 11:48 AM ET
In reply to mlle. jane
Good point thanks and thanks for reposting the tutorial I will try to digest later.
I too have threads that are spot on for my fabric.
Apart from getting the seam wrong for a French seam (it was good I noticed) the front and reverse of the fabric are very similar I couldn't understand how if I made another seam for a French seam on the sleeve head how that would work out when I came to do the first seam on the side seams and sleeve seam. I will have to read the tutorial slowly.
I too have threads that are spot on for my fabric.
Apart from getting the seam wrong for a French seam (it was good I noticed) the front and reverse of the fabric are very similar I couldn't understand how if I made another seam for a French seam on the sleeve head how that would work out when I came to do the first seam on the side seams and sleeve seam. I will have to read the tutorial slowly.
Posted on: 1/14/25 12:12 PM ET
In reply to sewing4therapy
Something to tuck into your arsenal of techniques: I did French seams on a linen gauze kimono-style jacket and because the fabric truly was identical on both sides, of course I got mixed up and did the sleeve head seams backwards. (Meaning, the finished raised seam was on the outside of the garment, not the inside.) My heart sank when I saw what I had done as I had no desire to rip stitches from horribly ravelly gauze . . . but the more I looked at it . . . the more I liked the delineation of that raised seam actually showing along the sleeve head line. So, I left it as is. Design detail! It looks 'meant' which in the end it was, because I chose not to change it.
Posted on: 1/14/25 12:22 PM ET
In reply to mlle. jane
OMG and there I was thinking it was just me not paying enough attention. I can feel the hart sinking but I agree it probably looks good in linen. The other thing about serging is that you cannot rip out the stitches having cut a bit off as well.
Well I just tried it on and I am pleasantly surprised although the sleeve head is hanging too low for me. Maybe it I serge it again since it will at least make it the size it should be. This is what I hope will be a wearable muslin although I always have to work with something too expensive to make an serious errors.
Do you press the seams a particular way on the shoulders, sleeve heads and side seams. When I did my Cuff top the designer suggested pressing the side and centre seams to the right. I can't remember about the shoulder but I pressed mine towards the front.
Well I just tried it on and I am pleasantly surprised although the sleeve head is hanging too low for me. Maybe it I serge it again since it will at least make it the size it should be. This is what I hope will be a wearable muslin although I always have to work with something too expensive to make an serious errors.
Do you press the seams a particular way on the shoulders, sleeve heads and side seams. When I did my Cuff top the designer suggested pressing the side and centre seams to the right. I can't remember about the shoulder but I pressed mine towards the front.
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