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Member since 12/30/01
Posts: 1057
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Posted on: 3/16/06 1:56 PM ET
This is something I've wondered about for a long time - and haven't been able to find anywhere. When binding a neck on a stretchy fabric, do you use a straight stitch or a stretch stitch? You have to sew the binding twice in most cases, first seaming it to the garment, and then folding and sewing it in place. Using a straight stitch would negate the stretchiness of the area, but using a stretch stitch puts a lot more thread in the seam (and makes it harder to stitch in the ditch, if that's your preference). What do you do?
  
Member since 8/24/02
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Posted on: 3/16/06 4:39 PM ET
Myself, I use a very narrow zigzag, just a hair off a straight stitch. It works fine.
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Elona
  
Member since 1/31/03
Posts: 329
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Posted on: 3/16/06 5:17 PM ET
I also use a very small (narrow) zig zag. Works very well!
I find the straight stitch in both my machines puts too much danged thread into the fabric and makes it look bulky rather than well made.

Tara
  
Member since 4/11/02
Posts: 10809
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Posted on: 3/16/06 5:19 PM ET
I hate the stretch stitch (lightning stitch) because if you ever have to rip one out, it's nearly impossible.

I usually use a slightly longer straight stitch or sometimes a slight zig-zag, or my coverstitcher.
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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
  
Member since 11/30/04
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Posted on: 3/16/06 5:26 PM ET
I use a 3.0 stitch length if I plan on topstitching (3.5 stitch length for that) on either side of the neckline seam. IMO, if the shirt slips over the head easily without pulling, there's not a big reason to use a stretch stitch.

I would use a stretch stitch, however, if making it for my kids.
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Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing: Elna 760, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3, Singer Model 99, Singer 221/Featherweight, Bernina 1630. Sergers: Babylock Enlighten and Babylock Ovation. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E. Embroidery/Sewing Combo: Brother Dream machine. Straight Stitch: Janome 1600P.
Certified Palmer/Pletsch Pants Fitting Instructor
Blog: 21stcenturydiy.blogspot.com
  
Member since 8/7/05
Posts: 481
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Posted on: 3/16/06 8:34 PM ET
In reply to Penny Carlson
All of the tops I have made in the last year have been knits. First here is a great video on the Threads magazine site to get you started:

A neckline binding for knits

If you do what she shows in the video, then a straight stitch is all that will be necessary to put the binding on the neck. In the video there is no topstitching, but I topstitch mine by using a 4mm twin stretch needle on my sewing machine. The bobbin is a zigzag between the two rows of straight stitch and has stretch to it. I have never had a stitch pop in all the tops I have made so far. And the best thing is that people do not believe I have made the top. I get that comment "It looks store bought!" all the time.
HTH
Edited to add: I use a 3.0 mm stitch length
-- Edited on 3/16/06 8:35 PM --
  
Member since 12/30/01
Posts: 1057
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Posted on: 3/16/06 10:54 PM ET
In reply to Linda F
Thanks....I sat through that whole video only to find that when Ms. V finally gets to sewing the seam, she used her SERGER. That is currently not an option for me.
I like the idea of the very narrow zigzag, and of course, if the neckline is big enough to go over your head easily, who cares if it stretches (duhhhh!)? Thanks, femmes!
  
Member since 8/7/05
Posts: 481
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Posted on: 3/17/06 10:16 AM ET
Hi Penny,
Ms. V used the serger to finish off the seam edges after she sewed the ribbing into the neck, big difference from using the serger to sew the necking binding onto the top. She could do this because she has sewn the binding onto the neck and it has the correct stretch before she goes to the serger.

I don't finish off the neck with my serger like she does. When I do the topstitching with a double needle, it creates a zigzag stitch on the bottom bobbin thread that covers the seam. I can then trim close to the zigzag stitch on the bottom and it finishes off the seam and I don't have to use my serger.
HTH,
Linda
  
Member since 12/30/01
Posts: 1057
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Posted on: 3/17/06 5:44 PM ET
In reply to Linda F
Linda, from what I saw, she initially basted the binding to the shirt, making sure that everything fit as it should. Then she definitely serged the seam. You wouldn't need to use the serger to finish it, as the seam will be enclosed. Or am I totally confused?
  
Member since 12/30/01
Posts: 1057
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Posted on: 3/17/06 5:46 PM ET
In reply to Linda F
Also, I'm totally familiar with twin needle stitching...and I finally have a machine that does it well! I guard my little stash of twin needles very carefully...I like to do all my stretch hems with them.
  
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