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Member since 10/20/05
Posts: 1185
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Posted on: 4/16/06 8:40 PM ET
I'm cutting out some rayon challis to make a top. What type of needle does one use on such fabric? I searched this site and several others, but couldn't find anything specific. Maybe a better question would be - what size needle does one use? Also, any other tricks I should be aware of? This stuff is so nice and soft, but dang is it slippery! Thanks!
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... but what do I know?
  
Member since 5/15/03
Posts: 141
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Posted on: 4/16/06 9:01 PM ET
I sewed an outfit with rayon challis last year, and it was a dream to sew. Someone here gave me the AWESOME advice to spray starch it to death. After doing that, the fabric behaved wonderfully, and you just wash it out afterwards. I think I used universal needles when sewing.

HTH!

Amy
  
Member since 1/30/03
Posts: 2172
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Posted on: 4/16/06 9:15 PM ET
Leigh, Sandra Betzina's _Fabric Savvy_ answers these very questions for lots of fabrics. I encourage you to run right down to your library or bookstore for it. For Rayon Challis, it says size 10 microtex or size 10 jeans/denim needle.
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Leslie
  
Member since 10/20/05
Posts: 1185
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Posted on: 4/16/06 9:28 PM ET
Spray starch. Dang it! I even have some. I'll definitely use it on future projects.

Leslie, I will definitely look for that book. How come I never think to research stuff in books even though I love to read?

Thanks. Now all I have to do is find my missing pattern piece, cut it out, and I'm ready to go!
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... but what do I know?
  
Member since 6/22/04
Posts: 4602
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Posted on: 4/17/06 1:26 PM ET
Rayon challis is one of my favorite fabrics. I use a size 10 universal needle and I haven't had any problems with that over the years. The challis is slithery but not in a difficult way, IMHO. I feel the drapiness makes it easy to shape and ease.
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Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com
  
Member since 8/19/04
Posts: 533
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Posted on: 2/4/07 1:38 AM ET
Is it wise to cut rayon challis on the bias for a long skirt? Thanks.
  
Member since 6/22/04
Posts: 4602
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Posted on: 2/4/07 9:58 AM ET
In reply to tailormaid
I think it is very wise! But a warning - it will be very form fitting, hugging every curve.
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Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com
  
Member since 8/19/04
Posts: 533
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Posted on: 2/4/07 2:05 PM ET
Thanks. I planned on cutting the skirt with a generous amount of ease. Will that help make the skirt more "graceful" and less clingy? It is a longer skirt (about 33 inches).
  
Member since 6/22/04
Posts: 4602
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Posted on: 2/4/07 2:59 PM ET
In reply to tailormaid
I think so. Still, rayon challis is quite soft on the bias. I love how it feels in a skirt. My last bias skirts were knee length which on me is about 23 inches, enough for a nice flippy motion at the hem.

I lined them with a polyester georgette which worked really well. The hot humid summers in Virginia make skirts stick to your legs without a second layer. Polyester would not have been my first choice for lining though, I just happened to have some in my stash at the time.

At 33 inches your skirt should be long enough not to have to worry about how much a bias skirt 'shortens' when you sit down. If you have enough ease the effect will be less. My knee length skirts became definitely above the knee skirts when I sat down.


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Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com
  
Member since 7/2/04
Posts: 1725
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Posted on: 2/5/07 0:25 AM ET
Ah...I LOVE rayon challis.

BEWARE! let the skirt hang for at least 24 hours and 48 to 72 hours is better before you hem it. Anything on the bias will GROW. Be prepared to cut part of it off before you actually hem it.

ETA: that's any fabric made up in a bias, not just rayon challis.
-- Edited on 2/5/07 0:26 AM --
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Mary Lynn (Who's finally sitting up and taking nourishment)

Design Degree??? I prefer my artistic license

"A woman who works with her hands is a laborer; a woman who works with her hands and her mind is a craftsman; but a woman who works with her hands and her brain and her heart is an artist." (St. Thomas Aquinas, modified)

  
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