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Moderated by EleanorSews
Posted on: 10/10/06 11:05 AM ET
As a picture is probably worth several thousand words in this case, here it is:
Princess side panel with FBA
How do you know how much to spread the 'black' (and hence blue) line i.e. how much extra length to allow over the bust seam? None of my books go into this, they simply talk about how much to spread the vertical slash (red lines) relative to bust size.
Many many thanks.
Princess side panel with FBA
How do you know how much to spread the 'black' (and hence blue) line i.e. how much extra length to allow over the bust seam? None of my books go into this, they simply talk about how much to spread the vertical slash (red lines) relative to bust size.
Many many thanks.
Posted on: 10/10/06 11:20 AM ET
I'm on my way out the door, and if no one else jumps in, I'll come back to it later, but ...
You have your slashes wrong. And your "dart" is pointing in the wrong direction. Do you have FFRP? If so, look on pages 150-151.
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You have your slashes wrong. And your "dart" is pointing in the wrong direction. Do you have FFRP? If so, look on pages 150-151.
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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
Posted on: 10/10/06 12:58 PM ET
FFRP is supposed to be on its way from Amazon to me - but they're talking about a month's wait, hence my request for help here. I'm following the only diagrams I could find (none online and I looked) for princess seams which go to the armscye.
I'm not clear as to why you think the dart is wrong. There isn't a dart in this pattern and I wasn't planning to add one.
I'm not clear as to why you think the dart is wrong. There isn't a dart in this pattern and I wasn't planning to add one.
Posted on: 10/10/06 1:38 PM ET
In reply to LornaJay
If I can jump in here, a FBA is really the addition of a dart to give the extra fabric you need to cover the bust. Whether you sew the dart or rotate it out is up to you.
What Debbie was referring to (I think) is that in doing the FBA in a princess style, you add the extra fabric to via a side dart. You seem to have used a different method.
Here are a couple of links to help you along:
FBA alteration this is very similar to the PP method except for the location of the anlged slash. PP angles it to about 1/3 the way up the armscye from the sideseam. For the princess panel, you take it a few steps further and close off the new side dart and open up at the front seam (ending up with a smaller dart at that seam that you do not sew). The extra length you added in the side panel you also add to the front panel. Also, you measure the seamline at the expanded bust curve and lengthen the front piece that much to even out the hemline at the front.
FBA resource list this is a list of FBA resources that has more links and info as well.
I hope this helps ...
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What Debbie was referring to (I think) is that in doing the FBA in a princess style, you add the extra fabric to via a side dart. You seem to have used a different method.
Here are a couple of links to help you along:
FBA alteration this is very similar to the PP method except for the location of the anlged slash. PP angles it to about 1/3 the way up the armscye from the sideseam. For the princess panel, you take it a few steps further and close off the new side dart and open up at the front seam (ending up with a smaller dart at that seam that you do not sew). The extra length you added in the side panel you also add to the front panel. Also, you measure the seamline at the expanded bust curve and lengthen the front piece that much to even out the hemline at the front.
FBA resource list this is a list of FBA resources that has more links and info as well.
I hope this helps ...
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Like Miss Frizzle says "Take chances, make mistakes ..." isn't that what fitting is all about? I am happily taking chances and making mistakes as I fit muslin after muslin ...
newmansneedle.blogspot.com
newmansneedle.blogspot.com
Posted on: 10/10/06 2:39 PM ET
In reply to Lorna C. Newman
Thanks Lorna (from another Lorna):
As I said, I understand how to do an FBA in theory, particularly using darts, and understand that a princess seam simply rotates the bust dart to the armscye and then cuts through that dart and the waist dart to give the panels.
What I still don't understand is how to alter an existing princess style for a full bust: in detail that is. I know I need more depth from underarm to bust point, and that I need more length from shoulder to waist.
I've duplicated the added stitching line length on my front panel, and they do go together well - as in the seams match up when I pin-fit the pattern pieces. Depending on how much I spread the pattern at the horizontal slash, however, I'm going to get either too little or too much extra length over the bust even if the depth from side seam is correct.
I think I'll just have to chew my fingernails and wait for the book to arrive - end of November is what Amazon is saying now
As I said, I understand how to do an FBA in theory, particularly using darts, and understand that a princess seam simply rotates the bust dart to the armscye and then cuts through that dart and the waist dart to give the panels.
What I still don't understand is how to alter an existing princess style for a full bust: in detail that is. I know I need more depth from underarm to bust point, and that I need more length from shoulder to waist.
I've duplicated the added stitching line length on my front panel, and they do go together well - as in the seams match up when I pin-fit the pattern pieces. Depending on how much I spread the pattern at the horizontal slash, however, I'm going to get either too little or too much extra length over the bust even if the depth from side seam is correct.
I think I'll just have to chew my fingernails and wait for the book to arrive - end of November is what Amazon is saying now
Posted on: 10/10/06 3:56 PM ET
First of all, cancel your order at Amazon and go direct to Palmer Pletsch (site )for the book. Faster that way!
Second, I have found an animated shot of the FBA alterations that Debbie and I are talking about. It is one of Debbie's. While it doesn't show the princess line, it is till the same process. You do this to the side panel and then lengthen the front panel as I described above.
In answering your original question about how to measure the extra needed, measure the seamline at the front seam and then lengthen the front according to that. See if that works in a muslin ... maybe your method is just as good as the P/P FBA!
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Second, I have found an animated shot of the FBA alterations that Debbie and I are talking about. It is one of Debbie's. While it doesn't show the princess line, it is till the same process. You do this to the side panel and then lengthen the front panel as I described above.
In answering your original question about how to measure the extra needed, measure the seamline at the front seam and then lengthen the front according to that. See if that works in a muslin ... maybe your method is just as good as the P/P FBA!
------
Like Miss Frizzle says "Take chances, make mistakes ..." isn't that what fitting is all about? I am happily taking chances and making mistakes as I fit muslin after muslin ...
newmansneedle.blogspot.com
newmansneedle.blogspot.com
Posted on: 10/10/06 3:58 PM ET
Here's a new tutorial/animation for princess seams. I've been meaning to do this for a while.
Princess FBA
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Princess FBA
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--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
Posted on: 10/10/06 4:23 PM ET
In reply to LornaJay
Quote:
I'm not clear as to why you think the dart is wrong. There isn't a dart in this pattern and I wasn't planning to add one.
I'm not clear as to why you think the dart is wrong. There isn't a dart in this pattern and I wasn't planning to add one.
The "spread" is actually a dart. You just won't be sewing it as a traditional dart.
A dart points to the fullest area (i.e., the bust in this case). Yours is pointing to the side seam, away from the bust.
Also, you've slashed/spread the pattern in such a way that the grain will be distorted if you cut/sew the bodice this way.
Have a look at the link I posted above. I think the illustrations will help you understand what to do, and what I'm trying to say.
Hang in there ... it does get easier the more you practice.
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--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
Posted on: 10/10/06 5:37 PM ET
In reply to Debbie Cook
Debbie,
1. I'm in awe that you can work out an FBA on a princess seam.
2. That you can LINK that FBA on this website.
3. That you can ANIMATE that FBA.
4. Need I continue???
Thank you!
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1. I'm in awe that you can work out an FBA on a princess seam.
2. That you can LINK that FBA on this website.
3. That you can ANIMATE that FBA.
4. Need I continue???

Thank you!
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The single most important discovery made by a group of women? The Empty Tomb!
http://www.donnahodgson.blogspot.com/
http://www.donnahodgson.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 10/10/06 5:39 PM ET
In reply to Debbie Cook
Thank you all for your input. The instructions (actually a few paragraphs and one diagram) I was attempting to follow are in Barbara Deckert's "Sewing for Plus Sizes" (p85). It all looked a bit hit-and-miss to me, and I'll be a lot happier following the new (wonderful!) tutorial. I'm going to need more paper though!
I looked at ordering the book direct (thanks for the link BTW) but the shipping from US to UK almost doubles the price I'd pay from Amazon.co.uk, so I'll have to grit my teeth and wait.
I see what you mean about a distorted grain line too - I'd been worrying about that ever since I made the changes. I'll have to compare the results of both methods in terms of shape.
I looked at ordering the book direct (thanks for the link BTW) but the shipping from US to UK almost doubles the price I'd pay from Amazon.co.uk, so I'll have to grit my teeth and wait.
I see what you mean about a distorted grain line too - I'd been worrying about that ever since I made the changes. I'll have to compare the results of both methods in terms of shape.
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