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shortening armhole and sleeve on dropped shoulder (Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952)
Posted on: 1/10/07 2:46 AM ET
I am trying to change V7636. I just want a one piece front and to put more width around the hip which I have done but I find the armhole is too deep for my height (or rather lack of). I am redrafting the pattern and so far have shortened across the front and back, in the armhole, by 2cm and also in the sleeve cap by taking out 2cm and redrawing the curve. I am really not sure if this is the right way to do it and don't want to cut into the material until I am sure. Incidentally I had to widen it because the finished hip measurement does not match that stated on the pattern. Am I right or is there a better way. Thanks to anyone who helps
Posted on: 1/10/07 1:17 PM ET
This is a pretty pattern. It looks like the style was drafted with a classic shirt sleeve, i.e. with a wide, shallow cap and a lower, straighter armhole, longer shoulder. This kind of design is intended to provide roominess for action. In contrast, a classic set-in sleeve has the shoulder shorter, the armhole higher, and more of a curve on the sleeve cap/armscye.
If you want to keep the shirt sleeve style, but just need to raise the armhole a little, I'd do what you've done. Just redraft the front and back pieces, adding to the underarm at the side seams, and then adjusting the sleeve similarly. This is one of those cases where I'd definitely do a muslin rather than just pin fitting. You want to be sure your change, depending on how much you raise the armhole, isn't going to affect the design and how the sleeve hangs.
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If you want to keep the shirt sleeve style, but just need to raise the armhole a little, I'd do what you've done. Just redraft the front and back pieces, adding to the underarm at the side seams, and then adjusting the sleeve similarly. This is one of those cases where I'd definitely do a muslin rather than just pin fitting. You want to be sure your change, depending on how much you raise the armhole, isn't going to affect the design and how the sleeve hangs.
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Jean
Posted on: 1/11/07 1:58 AM ET
In reply to meanjean
Thanks so much for your reply and confirmation of what I have done.I will go ahead now with a muslin as you suggested and will reply again when I have finished the blouse and I will try sending a photo. I found some nice cotton chintz in burnt red with cream polka dots but the dots are an irregular shape about 1.5cm diameter. It might take a long time as my daughter is sewing too and needs help and she is slower than me! One day I am so going to spend hours at a time sewing.
Posted on: 2/28/07 4:00 AM ET
Well I finally finished the blouse. I had to keep the original sleeves as I did not like the look of the raised underarm on the muslin so I decided to go safe. The collar had to be changed to a one with a stand because there was no facing. I made a bust dart but it is in the wrong place with certain bras. All in all I am happy with it and like wearing it and it looks pretty much RTW. DD likes it too. Yay!
Posted on: 2/28/07 12:30 PM ET
In reply to Dagmar
Dagmar,
Another way to reduce the sleeve on a flat cap which has a wide sleeve is to take out the amount vertically (on the lengthwise grain. I remove pinch amounts equal to what was removed from the bodice between the notch and shoulder point on the front and back of the sleeve. If you like the width of the sleeve at the wrist- do not bring the alteration all the way down. If the whole sleeve is also too wide- take the pinch all the way down.
Another way to reduce the sleeve on a flat cap which has a wide sleeve is to take out the amount vertically (on the lengthwise grain. I remove pinch amounts equal to what was removed from the bodice between the notch and shoulder point on the front and back of the sleeve. If you like the width of the sleeve at the wrist- do not bring the alteration all the way down. If the whole sleeve is also too wide- take the pinch all the way down.
Posted on: 3/1/07 4:54 AM ET
In reply to CSY
Thank you Carol, that is a great hint. I keep them all in a folder on the desktop and every now and then I print them out and put them in a file in my sewing room for easy reference.
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