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Member since 9/25/03
Posts: 458
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Posted on: 1/22/07 7:50 PM ET
I'm working on a knit top using slinky fabric. I attached the sleeves to the armscye with my serger using the flat construction method. The front was also attached to the back piece using a serger. The seam allowance is a little over 1/2 inch and I'm using the 5-thread serger stitch.

There is quite a bit of bulk at the top of the sleeve - where the top of the sleeve meets the shoulder seam. The bulk is noticeable when wearing the top. The sleeve looks as if it has "bumps." What are some good tips/techniques for reducing bulk around the sleeve area of knit tops?

TIA
Cynthia

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Cynthia
  
Member since 8/24/02
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Posted on: 1/22/07 8:37 PM ET
I think you need to reduce your seam allowance to 1/4" to get rid of the bulk.
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Member since 9/14/05
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Posted on: 1/22/07 8:46 PM ET
I'm not sure if your serger is already doing this or not, but make sure that your finished seam allowances are not more than 3/8 inch for the sleeve/armscye seam. It reduced bulk and adds to the comfort of wearing your top.
Since I don't own a serger, I've been sewing most knit tops using two rows of a narrow zigzag stitch--there is nothing bulking about stitching it this way, but I can still notice the shoulder seam if I don't trim the seam allowance down to size. Perhaps it is the serger stitching thread itself that is bulky when those seams intersect. Sergers do use a lot more thread per seam than sewing machines (but have lots of advantages too)
Also, keep in mind that whatever can't be seen from 3 feet away won't be noticed by anyone but yourself. Unless we stand perfectly still, our clothes will always have wrinkles and bumps.
  
Member since 1/12/04
Posts: 5086
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Posted on: 1/22/07 9:09 PM ET
In reply to Runrover
I had the same problem, and agree the solution is trimming the seam allowance width, AND reducing the amount of thread in the seam. I find even a 4-thread serger stitch can be too bulky if the fabric is thin, so i either use a 3-thread serger stitch or just stitch on a regular machine with a narrow zigzag (no finishing required).

marian
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Member since 9/25/03
Posts: 458
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Posted on: 1/23/07 8:45 AM ET
Thanks to you all for your helpful advice and encouragement. This is such a wonderfully supportive community. I guess I need to play with my serger a bit more and find out how to reduce the seam allowance. I'm fairly comfortable rethreading it, but haven't done much more than that. It's a Juki 655.

I've resolved to do more sewing this year and push myself beyond my comfort level of elastic waist pjs. This top has certainly been a learning experience - attached and used my walking foot for the first time (though I've owned it for over a year), sewed with slinky, attached a neckband (kinda of messed that up too, but learned how to do it correctly) and now I'll learn how to reduce the seam allowance on my serger.

Thanks again.
Cynthia
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Cynthia
  
Member since 2/9/04
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Posted on: 1/23/07 10:00 AM ET
In reply to Runrover
You can search these message boards for tips on sewing with slinky, but I have found that walking foot to be the best tool.

If you live within driving distance and can attend, the Atlanta Sewing Expo (also a topic here at the Boards under the Misc. category) has Emma Seabrooke teaching some classes on sewing with knits and slinky. She's an expert.


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Member since 9/25/03
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Posted on: 1/24/07 11:43 AM ET
In reply to Doris W. in TN
Thanks Doris. I'm considering attending the expo. The class sounds like a good idea.
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Cynthia
  
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