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I'm confused. (Moderated by EleanorSews)
Posted on: 2/20/07 9:10 PM ET
I am pretty new to sewing and I am confused.
I read that one should match the needle to the fabric. But, I then read that one should match the needle to the thread- that the needle size should correspond with the size of the thread, because otherwise it will make the wrong size hole for the thread.
I bought some Gutermann Sew-All thread yesterday because it was supposedly the best thread that I could get at Joann. Some people on the boards say that the weight (which I understand to correspond with size) is on the spool, but I can't see a mention of a weight or size on the spool.
I also have some C&C dual duty polycotton thread (I am phasing it out) and likewise, I can't find a mention of weight on the spool.
Can someone fill me in on the myseries of thread? I understand that for heavy fabrics, one should use heavier thread, but where do we find heavier thread? And what about the needle/vs the fabric/vs the thread? What's the best way to match it?
I read that one should match the needle to the fabric. But, I then read that one should match the needle to the thread- that the needle size should correspond with the size of the thread, because otherwise it will make the wrong size hole for the thread.
I bought some Gutermann Sew-All thread yesterday because it was supposedly the best thread that I could get at Joann. Some people on the boards say that the weight (which I understand to correspond with size) is on the spool, but I can't see a mention of a weight or size on the spool.
I also have some C&C dual duty polycotton thread (I am phasing it out) and likewise, I can't find a mention of weight on the spool.
Can someone fill me in on the myseries of thread? I understand that for heavy fabrics, one should use heavier thread, but where do we find heavier thread? And what about the needle/vs the fabric/vs the thread? What's the best way to match it?
Member since 12/9/04
Posts: 2015
Posts: 2015
Quebec Canada
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Posted on: 2/20/07 10:29 PM ET
In reply to reptilegrrl
Hi reptilegrrl!!
I'm not an "Advanced" sewer, but... Don't worry about the weight of your THREAD for sewing regular projects on your sewing machine. I only buy Gutermann Sew-All thread 'cos it is the best--it doesn't break or fuzz inside your machine like cheapie thread does.
You need to match your NEEDLE to the fabric you're using. There are charts in sewing manuals, info here, ask at your local fabric store. But, a rule of thumb is the finer the fabric, the smaller the needle # and vice-versa. Also, if you're buying a specialty fabric (i.e., for a beginner, anything that's not cotton/cotton blend) ASK if there is a special needle type needed.
To complicate things, sometimes a different PRESSURE FOOT is needed. Just ask here...
Have fun sewing!! Hope this gets you started...
Rhonda
I'm not an "Advanced" sewer, but... Don't worry about the weight of your THREAD for sewing regular projects on your sewing machine. I only buy Gutermann Sew-All thread 'cos it is the best--it doesn't break or fuzz inside your machine like cheapie thread does.
You need to match your NEEDLE to the fabric you're using. There are charts in sewing manuals, info here, ask at your local fabric store. But, a rule of thumb is the finer the fabric, the smaller the needle # and vice-versa. Also, if you're buying a specialty fabric (i.e., for a beginner, anything that's not cotton/cotton blend) ASK if there is a special needle type needed.
To complicate things, sometimes a different PRESSURE FOOT is needed. Just ask here...
Have fun sewing!! Hope this gets you started...
Rhonda
Posted on: 2/20/07 10:31 PM ET
In reply to reptilegrrl
Match the needle to the fabric. Unless you are doing specialty sewing (eg quilting) the odds are that you are going to be using all-purpose thread.
There is quilting thread which is heavier, and upholstery thread - but like I said you are probably going to be using all purpose thread 99.9% of the time.
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There is quilting thread which is heavier, and upholstery thread - but like I said you are probably going to be using all purpose thread 99.9% of the time.
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Sewing is my therapy!
Posted on: 2/20/07 10:45 PM ET
There was a thread about thread in GiGi's expert forum...Link to thread thread
I think for now, you will be happy with an all purpose thread, a buttonhole twist for sewing on buttons, and an upholstery weight if you do any heavy duty sewing.
I understand your confusion. In some cases you need to match the needle to the thread, like when sewing upholstery or leather. In other cases, where it's really general sewing, you match the needle to the fabric and use an all-purpose thread.
I use both Guiterman and Metrosene and reallly can't tell a big difference. I use the same type of thread whether I'm sewing a knit or silk, but I certainly change the needle to suit the fabric.
HTH
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I think for now, you will be happy with an all purpose thread, a buttonhole twist for sewing on buttons, and an upholstery weight if you do any heavy duty sewing.
I understand your confusion. In some cases you need to match the needle to the thread, like when sewing upholstery or leather. In other cases, where it's really general sewing, you match the needle to the fabric and use an all-purpose thread.
I use both Guiterman and Metrosene and reallly can't tell a big difference. I use the same type of thread whether I'm sewing a knit or silk, but I certainly change the needle to suit the fabric.
HTH
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Mary Lynn (Who's finally sitting up and taking nourishment)
Design Degree??? I prefer my artistic license
"A woman who works with her hands is a laborer; a woman who works with her hands and her mind is a craftsman; but a woman who works with her hands and her brain and her heart is an artist." (St. Thomas Aquinas, modified)
Design Degree??? I prefer my artistic license
"A woman who works with her hands is a laborer; a woman who works with her hands and her mind is a craftsman; but a woman who works with her hands and her brain and her heart is an artist." (St. Thomas Aquinas, modified)
Posted on: 2/21/07 4:00 PM ET
In reply to reptilegrrl
This is what I do - I seldom use anything but general purpose thread, then I match the needle to the fabric (example: #11 or 12 microtex on light - med weight wovens, #16 for heavier fabric and stretch or ballpoint needles on knit, etc.) I use a heavier thread and larger needle for hemming jeans.
The presser foot, I seldom change unless I am doing decorative stitching or layers that might shift.
Thread weight is no longer printed on the spools, but I did find an old wooden spool in my collections that reads 50wt. I also checked the Internet and found an article by Sarah J Doyle at www.allfreecrafts.com. "General purpose thread is 50wt. This includes cotton, polyester and cotton-wrapped polyester. Heavy duty threads are 40wt and are stronger for heavier fabrics." The article does not address serger or machine embroidery, but these threads are obvious as to the intended use. In a pinch I have used general purpose thread for serging small projects. Test stitch to check tension first. I have used Coats and Clarks thread for many many years on my singer, kenmore, bernina and elna without any problems. This was the only thread available when I learned to sew in small town USA. Now we have access to the Internet and Couture sewing with recommendations for additional brands. If brand does not matter check the spools for yardage/meters for the best price.
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The presser foot, I seldom change unless I am doing decorative stitching or layers that might shift.
Thread weight is no longer printed on the spools, but I did find an old wooden spool in my collections that reads 50wt. I also checked the Internet and found an article by Sarah J Doyle at www.allfreecrafts.com. "General purpose thread is 50wt. This includes cotton, polyester and cotton-wrapped polyester. Heavy duty threads are 40wt and are stronger for heavier fabrics." The article does not address serger or machine embroidery, but these threads are obvious as to the intended use. In a pinch I have used general purpose thread for serging small projects. Test stitch to check tension first. I have used Coats and Clarks thread for many many years on my singer, kenmore, bernina and elna without any problems. This was the only thread available when I learned to sew in small town USA. Now we have access to the Internet and Couture sewing with recommendations for additional brands. If brand does not matter check the spools for yardage/meters for the best price.
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OLD CHINESE PROVERB: I HEAR & I FORGET; I SEE & I REMEMBER; I DO & I UNDERSTAND.
Posted on: 2/21/07 6:14 PM ET
I found an excellent article on various threads, along with pictures of the different brands as viewed under a microscope. click here to read article
If you ever had any concerns about which brands of thread to use, this will answer ALL of your questions. There really is a difference!
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If you ever had any concerns about which brands of thread to use, this will answer ALL of your questions. There really is a difference!
------
Mary Lynn (Who's finally sitting up and taking nourishment)
Design Degree??? I prefer my artistic license
"A woman who works with her hands is a laborer; a woman who works with her hands and her mind is a craftsman; but a woman who works with her hands and her brain and her heart is an artist." (St. Thomas Aquinas, modified)
Design Degree??? I prefer my artistic license
"A woman who works with her hands is a laborer; a woman who works with her hands and her mind is a craftsman; but a woman who works with her hands and her brain and her heart is an artist." (St. Thomas Aquinas, modified)
Posted on: 2/22/07 11:05 PM ET
In reply to MaryLynn in Long Beach
That article is one of the things that convinced me to stop buying C&C and go instead for higher quality thread. I can see the lint building up on my machine and that's my main concern- the life of my machine. I doubt that C&C is super-bad for my sewn pieces, but I am concerned about the machine, especially since I bought a new one!
Posted on: 2/22/07 11:10 PM ET
Thanks everyone for your comments. I have a new question: what if I have matched the needle to the cloth, but the holes made my the needle is too big for the thread? This happened to me when using a size 14 needle on some flannel and C&C dual duty thread. The holes left by the needle were a bit too big for the thread, letting light come through. I switched to a size 11 needle and that eliminated the holes.
Last night, though, I was using a 14 on flannel and had no big holes... I had the holes when using my friend's Singer and now I am using my new Kenmore. Could this be an issue with the way the needle moves, rather than the fabric/thread?
Last night, though, I was using a 14 on flannel and had no big holes... I had the holes when using my friend's Singer and now I am using my new Kenmore. Could this be an issue with the way the needle moves, rather than the fabric/thread?
Posted on: 2/23/07 0:23 AM ET
In reply to reptilegrrl
Usually when you can see light coming through the stitching holes, the needle was too large for the *fabric*, not the thread.
A good general rule is to use the smallest size needle that will do the job (eg. is not in danger of breaking).
The only issue with thread size vs needle is when I'm using a thick topstitching, quilting, or upholstery thread and need a larger size hole in order to thread it.
A good general rule is to use the smallest size needle that will do the job (eg. is not in danger of breaking).
The only issue with thread size vs needle is when I'm using a thick topstitching, quilting, or upholstery thread and need a larger size hole in order to thread it.
Posted on: 2/23/07 2:34 AM ET
In reply to slanden99
Quote: slanden99
Usually when you can see light coming through the stitching holes, the needle was too large for the *fabric*, not the thread.
A good general rule is to use the smallest size needle that will do the job (eg. is not in danger of breaking).
The only issue with thread size vs needle is when I'm using a thick topstitching, quilting, or upholstery thread and need a larger size hole in order to thread it.
Usually when you can see light coming through the stitching holes, the needle was too large for the *fabric*, not the thread.
A good general rule is to use the smallest size needle that will do the job (eg. is not in danger of breaking).
The only issue with thread size vs needle is when I'm using a thick topstitching, quilting, or upholstery thread and need a larger size hole in order to thread it.
Yeah, but a size 14 needle is supposed to be right for flannel. See why I was confused? That's why I went to size 11, because it was smaller but would still do the job.
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