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Member since 3/19/06
Posts: 3847
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Posted on: 3/8/07 9:03 AM ET
I have determined that I am in love with SB's fly front zipper insertion method. However, she reccomends to use a zipper that is a little too long so that the pull is out of the way, and just trim the zipper when you apply the waist band.


I made a pair of jeans, and I didn't deal with the metal zipper very well. Is there any reason that I can't just use a regular zipper next time?? I don't make my jeans skin tight, but there isn't a ton of ease either. I'd say that there is about 1 to 1 1/2 inches of ease at the hips. - close fitting, but not jump up and down, lay on the bed to get them on tight.

I love this board! Thanks in advance!

BTW the coats and clark "jeans" thread looks really RTW and the top stitches look fab!. Unfortunately, I have to rip some ofthem out to replace the metal zipper that I messed up-- grrrrr...

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Member since 1/26/03
Posts: 3678
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Posted on: 3/8/07 9:23 AM ET
In reply to SewClassic
I think you should stick to metal, or possibly a heavier nylon. Nylon zippers can fail too easily and jeans fabric and fit don't offer enough ease or flexibility, so put a lot of strain on the zip. Some of the decision depends on how much trouble it would be to replace the zipper, but a bigger issue is what happens if you are out somewhere when it fails. At least carry some safety pins with you.
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Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 13915
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Posted on: 3/8/07 9:23 AM ET
In reply to SewClassic
In Pants for any Body, they show making jeans and they use a nylon zipper. However, you can shorten a metal zipper by removing the top stop and then removing the teeth and putting back the top stop. There is a tool for removing the teeth, but it is a pain. YOu can also set the zipper 1/8" below the waistline seam which is more like rtw, and this is the method that Claire Schaeffer uses in her pants patterns and she uses the open placket method, a version of rtw technique. I use SB's method for years, but it is not applicable for some situations and I started using CS's method and like it better now. I bought her Vogue pants pattern just for her instructions. She shows both couture and RTW methods with fabulous instructions.
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Member since 12/28/04
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Posted on: 3/8/07 9:25 AM ET
In reply to SewClassic
In Pants for any Body, they show making jeans and they use a nylon zipper. However, you can shorten a metal zipper by removing the top stop and then removing the teeth and putting back the top stop. There is a tool for removing the teeth, thought you don't need a specific tool YOu can also set the zipper 1/8" below the waistline seam which is more like rtw, and this is the method that Claire Schaeffer uses in her pants patterns and she uses the open placket method, a version of rtw technique. I used SB's method for years, but it is not applicable for some situations and I started using CS's method and like it better now. I bought her Vogue pants pattern just for her instructions. She shows both couture and RTW methods with fabulous instructions.
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Member since 4/11/02
Posts: 10809
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Posted on: 3/8/07 9:40 AM ET
I've made tons of jeans with nylon zippers. None has failed yet. Knock wood.

You *can* use the SB method for a metal zip too w/o prying off the extra teeth if you buy a zipper in the correct size for the fly (or adjust the fly length to match the zipper). I've done that too. It just means more careful placement when you're sewing. But with a roll of Wonder Tape, that's no big deal.
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Member since 3/19/06
Posts: 3847
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Posted on: 3/8/07 10:17 AM ET
In reply to Nancy K
Quote: Nancy K
However, you can shorten a metal zipper by removing the top stop and then removing the teeth and putting back the top stop.

I am pretty handy and I could not get the stop off without destroying it. the teeth were not that hard to remove, but I am then left without a stop.
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Member since 3/19/06
Posts: 3847
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Posted on: 3/8/07 10:33 AM ET
Tthanks for the heads up on Claire Schaeffer's technique. I think it would work well for a metal zipper if I could use a standard size.

I found it here.

I realy hate shortening the metal ones, and I am pettite with a short rise, so in jeans, even a 5 inch zipper will be too long. grrrr.

Do they sell replacement stops?
-- Edited on 3/8/07 10:49 AM --
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Member since 7/28/03
Posts: 1405
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Posted on: 3/8/07 11:07 AM ET
In reply to SewClassic
If the pants have a waistband, you shouldn't need a stop.

I just whipstitch the top of each side of the zipper where I want it to stop - that seems to work for me.
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Your time is limited, so don't waste it living someone else's life. Don't be trapped by dogma - which is living with the results of other people's thinking. Don't let the noise of others' opinions drown out your own inner voice. And most important, have the courage to follow your heart and intuition. They somehow already know what you truly want to become. Everything else is secondary. - Steve Jobs
  
Member since 2/7/02
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Posted on: 3/8/07 11:50 AM ET
O.K. now I have a question. I always shorten metal zippers by cutting off the bottom and sewing a new bottom stop on with a wide satin stitch on the machine. Is this the totally wrong way to do this?
  
Member since 4/11/02
Posts: 10809
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Posted on: 3/8/07 12:18 PM ET
In reply to Melody
Does it work (it must!), so of course it's not the wrong way!
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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
  
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