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Member since 4/8/07
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Posted on: 6/4/07 9:14 AM ET
This question has been lingering in my mind for some time now. To date I've made four jackets (not including muslins for fit) and remember being told that the side that needs easing should face the feed dogs. I tried this and found that it is really difficult to sew. When I sew it the other way, the sleeve sets in nicely with rarely a pucker. I use a walking foot with mostly all of my sewing, so perhaps this helps.

Which method is correct? What method do you use?

Thank you!
-- Edited on 6/4/07 9:23 AM --
  
Member since 4/30/05
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Posted on: 6/4/07 9:18 AM ET
I put the sleeve against the feed dogs. I would take the walking foot off for this. In this case the walking foot is preventing the easing action that you want to occur.

But if you have successfully done 4 jackets like this and are happy with the results, there is no reason to change your method.
  
Member since 7/28/04
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Posted on: 6/4/07 9:21 AM ET
I think the theory of easing the larger side (sleeve) next to feed dog is correct. But the reality is that it forces you to sew at an awkward angle...therefore the curve of the armhole gets distorted. So, I just sew in whatever direction the sleeve naturally wants to be...hard to describe, but once you try it with both sleeves eased by feeddogs, then you'll understand...clear as mud?

I find if I am using a quality fabric that eases reasonably well (eliminating strange synthetics, etc.) then I can ease almost any sleeve without any problems. I actually manipulate the extra fabric with my fingers, keeping it floating and turning to be at the correct angle to the needle, eliminating any puckers, so to speak.
  
Member since 3/17/06
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Posted on: 6/4/07 12:24 PM ET
I sew with the sleeve against the feed dog. I've never had a problem doing it this way. Yes, it is a bit awkward, but I find it easier to control. I even serge my sleeves on this way with no problem at all. I place my left hand in between the sleeve and the bodice and can control it that way. I say it's awkward because I have to take the pin cushion off my left wrist to do this. Other than that contortion it's really quite easy.
  
Member since 6/6/04
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Posted on: 6/4/07 4:10 PM ET
In reply to dresscode
Quote:
I find if I am using a quality fabric that eases reasonably well (eliminating strange synthetics, etc.) then I can ease almost any sleeve without any problems. I actually manipulate the extra fabric with my fingers, keeping it floating and turning to be at the correct angle to the needle, eliminating any puckers, so to speak.


You are now the second person I have heard explain this process. I would love to see it in action. I still can't quite get my head around it but it seems like it would work best.
  
Member since 7/28/04
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Posted on: 6/4/07 5:39 PM ET
In reply to krystalkaes
If you remember that the stitching line is the most crucial in terms of amount of fabric, then this is easier to understand. Don't worry too much about the excess fabric in the seam (toward the cut edge)...It's how the sleeve was drafted in the beginning as to how it will fit in the stitching line.

You really shouldn't be "easing" too much fabric in a set-in sleeve. You may have some excess that needs to be removed, especially in the big-4 patterns. They are just drafted larger than r-t-w, for reasons that are still unclear to me. It also depends on your fabric. I always steam shrink and press my sleeve "heads" even when it's not a tailored garment. Just looks nicer in the end.

It's kind of an intuitive thing, I guess...after many years of sewing, not sure if I can explain very well. I have definitely had my share of "duds"!
  
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Posted on: 6/4/07 7:42 PM ET
Thank you all for the information!
  
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Posted on: 6/4/07 7:53 PM ET
In reply to dresscode
Quote:
not sure if I can explain very well.


Actually you explained it nicely. I just had an "ah hah!" moment. Of course you don't want too much to ease in, a fiber that you can "mold" or "set" when you press it and a keen eye on the stitch line. The last garment I put together I didn't have the time to be tedious about the shoulder cap/shoulder seam and it went much better because I was forced to go it more by feel then theory, if that makes any sense. It was the first time I even attempted what you were describing.

I still wish I could watch someone while they did this. I suppose I am afeared I am doing it wrong.
  
Member since 7/28/04
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Posted on: 6/4/07 11:19 PM ET
I forgot to mention my favorite way of easing in a sleeve cap...using bias strips stretched and stitched into cap, prior to setting in sleeve. (Lightweight fabrics use batiste strips, medium to woolens, use wigan or tie interfacing)

It will draw back up and create perfect ease. I know a few people teach this method...Peggy Sagers, the late (favorite) Mary Ellen Flury, and others. It's an old tailoring trick but works on lightweight fabrics also.

Start with bias strips cut about 1 inch wide by length of ease area (or about 15"). Starting on the wrong side of the sleeve fabric at front of the cap notch, line up the edge of the wigan strip with the raw edge of the sleeve cap. Start sewing 1/2" from edge, stretching the bias strip very snugly. (don't stretch sleeve cap)

Anchor the first couple of stitches, then stretch and sew. At top of sleeve cap (shoulder seam, normally) stop stretching 1/2" from top of sleeve cap. So don't stretch for 1" total at shoulder. Then, continue stretching down to other clip or end of ease line.

Don't be afraid to really "tug" the strips...you want to draw them up fairly tight. I don't think I anchor the last stitches.

As soon as you remove, sleeve cap will draw "in" a bit. Be careful handling and if you want to steam the cap for memory, now is the time to do so. Some press it here, but be cautious about stretching ease out with iron. Depends on your fabric. Wool might shrink even more with a burst of steam, then left to dry.

This eliminates the messy two rows of ease stitching. (I actually use 3 usually to create more even gathering...if doing that method).

I'm sure I've left out some part of the bias stretch method of easing in a sleeve cap...let me know if you have any questions.
-- Edited on 6/4/07 11:27 PM --
  
Member since 3/8/06
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Posted on: 6/5/07 10:22 AM ET
Quote:
...using bias strips stretched and stitched into cap

That store bought "seam great" works too but too pricey for me.
  
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