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Member since 5/21/07
Posts: 88
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Posted on: 6/20/07 5:03 PM ET
Okay, it's one of my goals to perfect a fitted woven shirt pattern before fall rolls around, but I'm getting annoyed with all the facings! They really do not add to the ease of wear for a garment.

Absolutely NONE of my RTW shirts have facings--why do all shirt patterns??

I am not looking to make really formal tailored shirts (in which I could imagine you might like facings to keep everything crisp.) I just want some nicely fitted, easy wearing shirts.

How complicated is it to eliminate these? What do I do instead?

On all the RTW shirts I have, the buttons and buttonholes are on what simply looks like the edge of the shirt doubled over (or sometimes appears to be a separatley sewn-on placket).

Can a just add an extra inch or so to each CF and make my placket from that?

Thanks in advance!
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Member since 10/20/05
Posts: 1185
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Posted on: 6/20/07 5:11 PM ET
In reply to hestiah
*points to beginner status*

That said, I can't imagine why you couldn't just extend out the front and then fold it over. A button-down that I'm working on, B4609, has exactly that - extended fronts, no facings. I was ecstatic when I realized that. The edges are folded in twice, and are about an inch wide. It seems to me that buttons and buttonholes going through 3 layers of fabric will be more than sturdy enough for casual-ish wear. Also, adding 2 inches and folding over twice gets the raw edge covered nicely, and if there's one thing that drives me nuts with regards to sewing, it's seam finishes...
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Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 2728
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Posted on: 6/20/07 6:03 PM ET
Isn't this called a "cut-on facing"? I don't know if a separate facing has any advantages over a cut-on. maybe someone else will chime in.

Nina
  
Member since 7/28/04
Posts: 3233
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Posted on: 6/20/07 6:15 PM ET
I have several Ellen Tracy blouses that have facings. They are in higher price range of r-t-w. They are very well made, have held up for years, and are made with very nice silks. I think facings are used in r-t-w, but it is cheaper for many companies to do the faux band, etc.

Sometimes the facings are cut wider, shaped to the princess seam and stitched down to finish. But then again, most better r-t-w facings are cut larger (and deeper at back neck).
It's better "hanger appeal" for high-end stores.
  
Member since 2/25/06
Posts: 991
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Posted on: 6/20/07 8:16 PM ET
In reply to hestiah
For shirts like a button-down where the collar doesn't turn back, no facing is required. When the collar turns back (like a lapel on a jacket), a facing is required if you don't want to see the wrong side of the fabrics.

Quote:
Can a just add an extra inch or so to each CF and make my placket from that?

You can easily add to the senter front to eliminate the facing. I would measure the difference between the center front and the stitching line for the facing. Call this width X.

If you want to finish the edge and have not as much bulk, just add X to the stitching line for the facing.

If your fabric is softer or you don't want to finish the raw edge, add twice X. When sewing this one, iron on the stitching line, put the raw edge even with the fold and iron the newly created fold.

Joanne
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Member since 8/24/02
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Posted on: 6/20/07 8:17 PM ET
All button blouses either have a placket or a facing. You need something to finish off the center edge. Facings do a better job when you open the collar. The facing prevents you from seeing the wrong side of the fabric. Plackets only fold inside for about an inch and you always see the inside fabric when the collar is open. You just have to decide whether you want the wrong side of the fabric to show when your collar is open. If you don't, use a facing. If you don't care, a placket would be fine.
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Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 947
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Posted on: 6/21/07 10:24 AM ET
The twice-folded front edge is common on men's shirts, usually with a collar -and-stand. A separate placket can be sewn on too. I go with the folded edge when I make my husband's shirts. The three layers work just fine for buttonholes (might not be wide enough if you want horizontal buttonholes), and there is usually no need for interfacing, as the third layer acts as interfacing. However, as Sherril explains, you will see the wrong side of the fabric at the neck if the collar is open, so convertible collar shirts often have facings instead. Also, those collars don't go to the edge of the shirt at the neck, so think about how you're going to do that.
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Tessa
  
Member since 8/14/05
Posts: 178
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Posted on: 6/23/07 6:16 AM ET
The fold over part should be at least one and a half time the with of your button. Oh and do remember to shape the top so it fits the neckline when folded.
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Member since 2/28/05
Posts: 2181
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Posted on: 6/23/07 11:00 AM ET
In reply to bunz
I don't care for a cut on facing and usually change the pattern to make the front facing a separte piece. The seam when favored to the inside gives the shirt a crisper appearance and, since I'm a big gal, I find that it I can be more creative with layout and squeeze the shirt out of less fabric with a separate front facing.

When the collar won't be worn open, there is less need for separate facing.

One final point - when making a shirt with a camp collar (no stand) I never use the instructions in most patterns to clip the collar and then fold under. When attaching the collar and front facing to the neck line I add a narrow bias strip to the back of the collar to provide a clean finish to the back neck.


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Member since 5/10/06
Posts: 298
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Posted on: 6/23/07 11:12 AM ET
In reply to hestiah
I know exactly how you feel, hestiah. I looked and looked at blouse patterns. It's like trying to find a pattern with a proper vent on a long sleeve cuff (not that bias strip you sew over the edge - - I did finally find one!)

I can see if you're making a silk blouse, those facings are the best option as all the topstitching on the button placket would make it less dressy and distract from the sheen of the fabric. But I use a lot of cottons for shirting and wanted that "oxford" shirt look. I basically looked at one of my rtw shirts and measured out a separate placket (long vertical strip of cloth) and added a little to the center front. The amount varies depending upon the desired width of the placket. I just used the center front line on both the left and right pieces as my reference point and added from there. Be sure to watch the neckline curve so you don't end up with your piece being too short as the neckline curves up towards the shoulder.


  
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