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hemline of blouse is stiff (Moderated by EleanorSews)
Posted on: 7/19/07 1:12 PM ET
Hello,
I am making this bias cut blouse from McCall. I’m wearing it has part of a faery costume and using the process of making it as a big sewing lesson. Especially making a FBA for the first time. So far I am pleased with the blouse and my alterations.
The only issue I am having is the hemline on the sleeves and ruffle (flounce). The fabric I am using is very a silky satin type. The instructions for heming involve running a straight stitch through the fabric at ½ in, folding over and stitching again close to the first hem, trimming the excess fabric and then folding again and doing the final stitch. That’s 3 passes of the needle. Ok I will admit I did not do this on the sleeves, but rather folded it over, tucked in the raw edge and made the narrowest hemline I could. The result is ok except that it’s really stiff. The fabric just doesn’t float and wave like it would if it had been serged (like in RTW clothing). This actually seems ok because it gives the sleeves a wing like effect suitable for a faery costume, but not what I would want if I wearing it for regular use.
So now I am not sure what to do about the bottom ruffle. I think if I do the same hem as the sleeve I will not like it. I can’t imagine doing the 3 seams they suggest would help. Wouldn’t that just make the hemline even more stiff?
So here is my current solution and I can see the head shaking now: No hem. That’s right, just let the fabric go raw. I figure this might pass ok for the one time event I am attending and later I could hem it if I chose to wear it again.
But if anyone here has a better idea or suggestion, please please let me know.
Tina
I am making this bias cut blouse from McCall. I’m wearing it has part of a faery costume and using the process of making it as a big sewing lesson. Especially making a FBA for the first time. So far I am pleased with the blouse and my alterations.
The only issue I am having is the hemline on the sleeves and ruffle (flounce). The fabric I am using is very a silky satin type. The instructions for heming involve running a straight stitch through the fabric at ½ in, folding over and stitching again close to the first hem, trimming the excess fabric and then folding again and doing the final stitch. That’s 3 passes of the needle. Ok I will admit I did not do this on the sleeves, but rather folded it over, tucked in the raw edge and made the narrowest hemline I could. The result is ok except that it’s really stiff. The fabric just doesn’t float and wave like it would if it had been serged (like in RTW clothing). This actually seems ok because it gives the sleeves a wing like effect suitable for a faery costume, but not what I would want if I wearing it for regular use.
So now I am not sure what to do about the bottom ruffle. I think if I do the same hem as the sleeve I will not like it. I can’t imagine doing the 3 seams they suggest would help. Wouldn’t that just make the hemline even more stiff?
So here is my current solution and I can see the head shaking now: No hem. That’s right, just let the fabric go raw. I figure this might pass ok for the one time event I am attending and later I could hem it if I chose to wear it again.
But if anyone here has a better idea or suggestion, please please let me know.
Tina
Posted on: 7/19/07 4:10 PM ET
No hem is an idea. Might get stray threads peeling off. You could pink the edge or use one of those "wavy" blades if you don't want to see pinking. You could also just follow their directions but measure 1/8" instead of 1/2", a handkerchief hem. For added shape and airiness you could add horsehair to your sleeve hem.
-- Edited on 7/19/07 4:28 PM --
-- Edited on 7/19/07 4:28 PM --
Posted on: 7/19/07 4:55 PM ET
"No hem is an idea. Might get stray threads peeling off. "
Yes, that's the main concern. Did I mention this is an outdoor festival and I will be helping with the kid's art table? Could be some major peeling by the end of the day....
"You could pink the edge or use one of those "wavy" blades if you don't want to see pinking. You could also just follow their directions but measure 1/8" instead of 1/2", a handkerchief hem. For added shape and airiness you could add horsehair to your sleeve hem."
Ok I don't know what pink the edge is. I am also not sure what a handkerchief hem or adding horsehair to the sleeve means. I am a novice.
Tina
Yes, that's the main concern. Did I mention this is an outdoor festival and I will be helping with the kid's art table? Could be some major peeling by the end of the day....
"You could pink the edge or use one of those "wavy" blades if you don't want to see pinking. You could also just follow their directions but measure 1/8" instead of 1/2", a handkerchief hem. For added shape and airiness you could add horsehair to your sleeve hem."
Ok I don't know what pink the edge is. I am also not sure what a handkerchief hem or adding horsehair to the sleeve means. I am a novice.

Tina
Posted on: 7/19/07 5:37 PM ET
Pinking the edge means cutting it with special scissors or blade to produce a small tidy zig-zag edge, about an 1/8th of an inch wide. This doesn't ravel (usually). You use pinking shears or a rotary blade made for pinking. For some reason i'm having a hard time finding a how-to website for you. There are other blades for rotary cutters, among them one that makes a more subtle "wavy" edge. I will keep looking for a how-to site for you.
Handkerchief hem is just a very narrow version of the hem your pattern suggests, you see it on actual handkerchiefs.
Maybe someone else will add info too.
Handkerchief hem is just a very narrow version of the hem your pattern suggests, you see it on actual handkerchiefs.
Maybe someone else will add info too.
Posted on: 7/21/07 10:21 AM ET
In reply to tina813
Adding horsehair braid...

...to a hem adds stiffness, so the hemline will stand out.
Pinking sheers cut the fabric to look like this...

...so it can't ravel.
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...to a hem adds stiffness, so the hemline will stand out.
Pinking sheers cut the fabric to look like this...

...so it can't ravel.
------
Ardis
the lefthanded daughter of a lefthanded mother
the lefthanded daughter of a lefthanded mother
Posted on: 7/21/07 12:18 PM ET
If it's for a one-time use (and being at the kids art table will probably ensure that), how about just doing a zig-zag stitch along the bottom? You could even have the zizag go just over the edge of the fabric to create a scalloped hem effect.
HTH
HTH
Posted on: 7/21/07 12:22 PM ET
Or how about sewing a piece of lace all along the end. That would take care of the raw edge and leave a hem too.
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What is Maxine saying??
"I don't iron. If I'm not wrinkle-free why should my clothes be."
"I don't iron. If I'm not wrinkle-free why should my clothes be."
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