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Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952
Posted on: 9/22/07 3:50 AM ET
I wanted to reduce the overall width, shoulder to wrist, of a two piece sleeve by 2cm.
Below you can see the larger half of the sleeve pattern with a vertical adjustment line provided by the patternmaker to use for width alterations.
Sleeve pattern
I used this line to reduce the sleeve width from top of sleeve cap to wrist by taking out a 1cm fold. I re-cut the sleeve in calico and now it is really skewed when inserting it into the armhole. Not usable at all. The balance is thrown out.
How then to reduce the width of a 2 piece sleeve so it remains balanced in the armhole?
xtreme1
-- Edited on 9/22/07 3:55 AM --
-- Edited on 9/22/07 4:00 AM --
Below you can see the larger half of the sleeve pattern with a vertical adjustment line provided by the patternmaker to use for width alterations.
Sleeve pattern
I used this line to reduce the sleeve width from top of sleeve cap to wrist by taking out a 1cm fold. I re-cut the sleeve in calico and now it is really skewed when inserting it into the armhole. Not usable at all. The balance is thrown out.
How then to reduce the width of a 2 piece sleeve so it remains balanced in the armhole?
xtreme1
-- Edited on 9/22/07 3:55 AM --
-- Edited on 9/22/07 4:00 AM --
Member since 1/24/07
Posts: 611
Posts: 611
British Columbia Canada
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Posted on: 9/22/07 10:13 AM ET
I am just guessing but perhaps you need to take some off both pieces of the sleeve; that is one centimeter off each piece.
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Elaine
Posted on: 9/22/07 11:33 AM ET
In reply to xtreme1
You can't do it that way. This looks like a 2 piece sleeve?
Lap the seams and draw a line across at the underarm from side to side perpendicular to grain. The sleeve cap needs to remain the same. Slit vertical and the horizontal lines you have drawn, stopping short at the seam lines. Clip the outside of the sas to make a flap at each line. Do not cut through, you will lap the vertical the amount you want to remove and the horizontal will lap to allow the sleeve to lay flat. If you want to narrow the bottom too just cut through that point and overlap evenly. The cap remains the same and can be inserted using the same markings. This is where I assume it went wrong. the markings would not match up to the armscye.
These instructions came from Palmer and Pletsch's Fit for Any Body. I highly recommend this book to you. Once you figure out what basic changes you need to make they will pretty much be the same across all patterns from the same company. YOu will have to make similar changes in all patterns but the amounts will change because of sloper differences, though the big 4 are probably pretty much the same.
-- Edited on 9/22/07 11:35 AM --
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Lap the seams and draw a line across at the underarm from side to side perpendicular to grain. The sleeve cap needs to remain the same. Slit vertical and the horizontal lines you have drawn, stopping short at the seam lines. Clip the outside of the sas to make a flap at each line. Do not cut through, you will lap the vertical the amount you want to remove and the horizontal will lap to allow the sleeve to lay flat. If you want to narrow the bottom too just cut through that point and overlap evenly. The cap remains the same and can be inserted using the same markings. This is where I assume it went wrong. the markings would not match up to the armscye.
These instructions came from Palmer and Pletsch's Fit for Any Body. I highly recommend this book to you. Once you figure out what basic changes you need to make they will pretty much be the same across all patterns from the same company. YOu will have to make similar changes in all patterns but the amounts will change because of sloper differences, though the big 4 are probably pretty much the same.
-- Edited on 9/22/07 11:35 AM --
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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
Posted on: 9/22/07 8:42 PM ET
Elaine and Nancy, thanks for your replies.
Nancy, it is a two piece sleeve and I will try that alteration today. I have a memory now of having seen that in a library book some time ago and your description sparked the memory. I will try that, re-cut the sleeve in calico and see how it goes. Yes, you're right about the armhole markings being skewed - that is where I ran into trouble.
I'll be back with news of how I went with this.
xtreme1
Nancy, it is a two piece sleeve and I will try that alteration today. I have a memory now of having seen that in a library book some time ago and your description sparked the memory. I will try that, re-cut the sleeve in calico and see how it goes. Yes, you're right about the armhole markings being skewed - that is where I ran into trouble.
I'll be back with news of how I went with this.
xtreme1
Posted on: 9/22/07 10:01 PM ET
In reply to xtreme1
FYI - that vertical line on the pattern is the grainline, not an adjustment line.
Posted on: 9/23/07 0:54 AM ET
In reply to sewdance
Quote: sewdance
FYI - that vertical line on the pattern is the grainline, not an adjustment line.
FYI - that vertical line on the pattern is the grainline, not an adjustment line.
I first thought so too, but if you look at the photo closely, you can see (1) a separate, marked grainline and (2) that the line in question is actually marked as an adjustment line (near the bottom of the photo).
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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
Posted on: 9/23/07 3:23 AM ET
I'm back to report success! What a fascinating alteration to make. I enjoyed doing this.
I've included a comparison pic of the before and after upper sleeve pattern. The red represents the altered pattern. You'll notice the sleeve head was raised slightly and, of course, the sides narrowed during this alteration. A slither was taken off the initial curve of the sleeve head, back and front (may be hard to see in pic), starting at the armhole. I also increased the overlap towards the wrist. To my mind a smaller circumference at the wrist makes for a more slimming appearance when wearing a jacket.
Comparison
It's hard to believe such a small adjustment made such a difference but it did and it's what I wanted. Yes, it took time to do but the refinement it made was worth it.
Thanks Nancy.
xtreme1
I've included a comparison pic of the before and after upper sleeve pattern. The red represents the altered pattern. You'll notice the sleeve head was raised slightly and, of course, the sides narrowed during this alteration. A slither was taken off the initial curve of the sleeve head, back and front (may be hard to see in pic), starting at the armhole. I also increased the overlap towards the wrist. To my mind a smaller circumference at the wrist makes for a more slimming appearance when wearing a jacket.
Comparison
It's hard to believe such a small adjustment made such a difference but it did and it's what I wanted. Yes, it took time to do but the refinement it made was worth it.
Thanks Nancy.
xtreme1
Posted on: 9/23/07 3:01 PM ET
In reply to xtreme1
You are very welcome. IMO you can't be well dressed in poorly fitting clothes and the easiest way to get good fit is to sew. Working out the problems is fun and as you learned not all that hard! Having a community of sewers to help solve problems is also wonderful.
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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
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