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Member since 2/17/07
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Posted on: 11/4/07 0:56 AM ET
Anybody with this or similar Singer junk have this problem? It sews along fine for some while, which varies, then it will have a slight and subtle change in the sound it is making as it sews, followed by the top thread breaking. When this happens, the broken end of the thread has a fuzz ball, with a few strands of fiber pulled out of the fuzz ball. It looks like the thread was caught in a sharp place, and pulled. The broken end is near the needle after the break, but the tensioner has pulled it up into the machine. It looks like it broke at or very near the needle.

This machine would actually be acceptable if it did not do this. I take every opportunity to use any other machine that I own because of this, but all my other machines are very old and simple, and have no fancy or stretch stitches beyond a simple zig-zag, so I have to use it for some things.

Any help appreciated, TIA!
Al

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A sewing machine is just a welder for textiles.
  
Member since 3/19/06
Posts: 3847
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Posted on: 11/4/07 7:14 AM ET
Of cource, there may be a burr somewhere in the thread path, but it could be another issue too.

What type of fabric are you sewing? What needle and thread are you using? Depending on the fabric and thread, a needle with a larger eye will sometimes do the trick. Sometimes, just a fresh needle will eliminate the problem. The needle does get worn from the friction of the thread, but you probably already know that.

Old or bargain bin thread is also prone to shreading and breaking.
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Member since 8/24/02
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Posted on: 11/4/07 5:54 PM ET
That's what happens when I use Dual Duty thread in my Viking, the old style cotton wrapped poly. It likes the new all poly fine.
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My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.
  
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Posted on: 11/5/07 11:23 PM ET
In reply to SewClassic
Jenny,
I'm using a Singer ballpoint needle, size 80/11, and have tried both Mettler Metrosene thread (100% poly, I think) and older Clark's Dual Duty cotton wrapped poly. (Either thread will break with about the same frequency.) I'm sewing a fairly thick fleece. Thinking about this, I'm betting I need a larger needle. Also, I do have a fair-sized project on this needle, so it's probably time to change it anyway.

I kind of doubt that it's a burr in the thread path, as it can go quite a time without breaking. There is no rhyme or reason to the breakage, it just happens whenever.

Thanks for getting me thinking about this in a productive way. I'll bet a new larger needle does the trick.

Diane, thanks for letting me know it's not just the junky Singer that will do this. It's still junky, but at least there's hope.

Thanks much!

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A sewing machine is just a welder for textiles.
  
Member since 3/19/06
Posts: 3847
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Posted on: 11/6/07 6:25 AM ET
In reply to Al Johnson
Ball point needles are designed to keep certain knits from unraveling. They tend to part the fibers rather than pierce them. This is not really necessary with fleece, as it isn't prone to "running".

With fleece, I'd try a universal needle size 14. It may create less friction than the ball point. You could even try a sharp. Also, fleece just "eats" needles, so be prepared to change them a bit more frequently than usual.

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