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How do you hem your tops? (Moderated by Deepika)
Member since 1/24/07
Posts: 611
Posts: 611
British Columbia Canada
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Posted on: 11/30/07 10:56 PM ET
I have almost finished a vintage (1976) top. I have used a soft polyester which frays quite badly. The top is quite full in the front with a yoke and unpressed pleats. I haven't been doing much garment sewing in the last fifteen years and I find I am really rusty with basic skills. I am not sure how I should do the hem. The pattern calls for a one and a quarter inch hem and suggests finishing the hem with seam binding or stretch lace and slip-stitching. I am interested in finding out how you finish your hems on "dressy" blouses and tops that are not tucked in.
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Elaine
Posted on: 11/30/07 11:25 PM ET
sounds like serging the edge would be a good idea to control the fraying. Depending on the textile I might then fold and sew a 1/4 inch edge topstitch. Otherwise if that's not something you want to consider, you can finish it as it was done circa 1976, which was to sew a seam tape to the edge turn and hand stitch a blind hem. JF
Posted on: 12/1/07 10:25 AM ET
After hearing Sandra Betzina speak, I've becime a HUGE fan of Steam-a-Seam. She used it at the hem of garments that would look 'disrupted' with a stitch line, and/or to hole a finnicky fabric (like a very loose weave) in place while she hems it. She will use Steam-a-Seam alone too, with no stitchig, and it looks great.
Since seeing her, I've 'pre-hemmed' many things with Steam-a-Seam, then placed a stitch line without fear of unraveling or misshaping while I stitch. It felt like cheating, till I realized that the only one making the rules is me.
-- Edited on 12/1/07 10:26 AM --
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Since seeing her, I've 'pre-hemmed' many things with Steam-a-Seam, then placed a stitch line without fear of unraveling or misshaping while I stitch. It felt like cheating, till I realized that the only one making the rules is me.

-- Edited on 12/1/07 10:26 AM --
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Cindy Lou, no more than 2
"Sew, Esmerelda! Sew like the Wind!" -Martin Short, The Three Amigos
"When inspiration calls, you don't send it to voicemail." --Will I Am.
"Sew, Esmerelda! Sew like the Wind!" -Martin Short, The Three Amigos
"When inspiration calls, you don't send it to voicemail." --Will I Am.
Posted on: 12/7/07 11:06 PM ET
In reply to Elaine Dougan
I like to serge and do a twin needle topstitch with a light tear away underneath to prevent tunneling. I have not had good luck with steam a seam on knits. I find it makes a stiff hem. JMHO
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http://lasewist.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 12/7/07 11:36 PM ET
In reply to cindy-lou
I have to vote w/ CindyLou on the SteamASeam. Love that stuff. It's great for those awful Joann's "Silkies." It's also good for fabrics that are inclined to stretch and wave. I've also used the WashAway tape and a walking foot w/ success, esp. on knits...that way you don't have the stiffness issue.
Eve
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Eve
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People who say it cannot be done should not interrupt those who are doing it - Chinese proverb
Posted on: 12/8/07 9:49 AM ET
Since you say the fabric frays, we are not talking knits here. I like to use lace hem tape on fancy things that might show the serger line and where there might be pokies from so much fraying. I zig zag it on and then hand hem. I don't think that I would use steam a seam on this, though I have used it on knits.
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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
Posted on: 12/8/07 12:08 PM ET
If this is a thin polyester the Steam-A-Seam may show a ridge where it is applied. Test on a scrap first. If there is no show through then I would use the steam a seam. If this polyester is similar to a silk then I would serge the edge to keep from fraying then either make a bound edge or press the hem up and hand stitch catching only a thread or two on the outside layer. Otherwise to do a machine hem, control the wiggle of the fabric with a tear off or wash away stabilizer and use whatever method you prefer; blindstitch, topstitch or twin needle stitch. If the fabric wiggles a lot you might want to hand baste the layers together first.
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