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Member since 7/4/07
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Posted on: 2/26/08 7:51 PM ET
I'm not really having a problem, but I've just encountered the most bizarre fitting situation I've ever encountered.

I'm making a dress from this vintage pattern.

As it is with vintage patterns, it's one size too small. It's the first time I've made a slim skirt because I'm a pear figure. The story of my life is that tops are too big, and bottoms are too small.

Nevertheless, I decided to go ahead and make this up. I planned for cutting the skirt larger at the hips and carefully measured the distances from waist for the natural hipline as well as my outer thigh (which bulges). I'm 34-27-37 (across my bottom out to 39). This pattern is a 32" bust and 35" hips.

Since the bodice pieces are more intricate, I factored that using a smaller seam allowance would be sufficient to add extra room since I'm small on top.

Well, I got the bodice partly together, then constructed the skirt. The skirt is way too big at the hips (ok at waist)!!!!!! And the bodice top well fitted!!!

I'm going to have to take in the skirt tomorrow, probably back to not far beyond the actual pattern size. How can that be? LOL

This is so strange and opposite to my usual fitting situation! On the bright side, I'm much more optimistic about projects with slim skirts!
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A bad day in the sewing room is better than a good day at the office.

Getting through life, one stitch at a time.

http://when-ladies-dressed.blogspot.com/
  
Member since 1/26/03
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Posted on: 2/26/08 9:49 PM ET
The illustration shows gathers or pleating just below the waist, tapering in to a straight skirt below the hips. Maybe that's what feels too big, but it's meant as a shaping.

I'm a pear too and never would even consider a straight skirt. I'm glad this is working out for you.
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Buy the best and you only cry once.

  
Member since 3/14/06
Posts: 440
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Posted on: 2/26/08 10:21 PM ET
Oh wow - Kelly that pattern is to die for. Its just gorgeous - I can hardly wait to see a photo of your creation when you review it. I wish I could help you with the skirt issue but I'm not that knowledgeable. I have seen your vintage reviews and I know you will "make it work" as Tim Gunn says on Project Runway.
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Member since 7/19/03
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Posted on: 2/27/08 10:22 AM ET
Kellie, I wonder if a Vogue "Special Design" pattern was based on a different sloper than their 'regular' patterns? Do you know any history about the "Special Design" patterns?
Elaine
-- Edited on 2/27/08 10:23 AM --
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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com
  
Member since 7/4/07
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Posted on: 2/27/08 11:40 AM ET
Hello!

No, I don't know anything about the old Special Designs' design! It would be interesting to know. I remember reading an on-line article that compared a genuine vintage pattern to the same pattern's modern, re-issue. While I don't recall all of the details, there were many differences to accomodate today's figures. It was quite interesting!

I tried the skirt again this morning. While it is big, I do agree that the released darts add to the roominess. Cutting a bit larger was needed; I think I just overshot how much was really needed.

I'll take it in a bit at the sides and it should be ok!
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A bad day in the sewing room is better than a good day at the office.

Getting through life, one stitch at a time.

http://when-ladies-dressed.blogspot.com/
  
Member since 1/2/08
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Posted on: 2/27/08 8:59 PM ET
I don't know if this would be the case with your pattern, but I noticed with the vintage patterns I got recently, there's more of a gap between bust and hip sizes than in modern pattern sizes. I, for example, should be about a size 4 in the bust and waist (I say this in theory, since I have yet to find a pattern that I like that actually goes down to a size 4), but closer to an 8 in the hips, but a vintage size 12 (bust 30, hips 33) fits both my bust and my hips. Clearly I was born about 50-60 years too late.
  
Member since 3/14/06
Posts: 440
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Posted on: 2/27/08 9:13 PM ET
In reply to mouthygrace
My daughter is about the same size as you and I have a very difficult time finding patterns that are not too big (ie in the big 4). So needless to say, I really enjoy your reviews and look forward to them because they give me inspiration for items I would like to make for my daughter.
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Member since 7/16/07
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Posted on: 2/28/08 2:07 PM ET
In reply to Kellie R.
Quote:
Quoting mouthygrace:
but a vintage size 12 (bust 30, hips 33) fits both my bust and my hips. Clearly I was born about 50-60 years too late.

Yes, and (ahem) Kellie, I was looking at some vintage patterns recently, and I kept noticing that one of the sizes matched your stated measurements closely if not almost identically, so I'm not sure I buy that you're all that "pear"-like. A slightly pear-ish hourglass, maybe (lucky you, given your penchant for sewing retro dresses ).

-- Edited on 2/28/08 2:09 PM --
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Member since 1/2/08
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Posted on: 2/28/08 7:00 PM ET
In reply to Athene
Aww, thanks! It's such a pain trying to find patterns in small sizes, so I'm glad you've gotten some ideas for things for your daughter.
  
Member since 7/4/07
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Posted on: 2/29/08 7:48 AM ET
Grace, I noticed that there's a slight variation on some patterns... but for this pattern I was going by the envelope which said 35". No matter how many times I measure, the tape measure says the same thing! 37", LOL. It's just one of those things!

I went into the project as a "muslin, with the hopes of it being wearable at the end." For the final version, I want to use nice silk...

js, thanks for your kind words. I'm probably more pear-ish, but I have that ghastly outer thigh bulge which gives me much grief, especiall with pants!
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A bad day in the sewing room is better than a good day at the office.

Getting through life, one stitch at a time.

http://when-ladies-dressed.blogspot.com/
  
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