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Member since 4/4/05
Posts: 42
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Posted on: 3/23/08 9:54 AM ET
Hi, I recently made a knit cardigan and had a difficult time to get a good quality of cover stitch on my fabric.

The knit is light-mdium weight jersey and I stabilaized hem with fusible tape. When I tested with linen fabric, both narrow and wide cover stitch was fine. However, on my project knit fabric, sometimes it jummed up especially at the begining or created stitches which do not have a good square shape on the back side. I adjusted needle thread tention or even foot pressure. I also tried Wooly thread for looper, but Wooly seemed that is thick for the knit.

One more thing is that I just noticed. Why does the manual really specify needle Schmetz 90? I use finer needles for the knit construction. Is this 90 size for all types of fabrics and also I want to know why.

In adidition, for cover stitch, should I use ball point for knit and univeral for woven? (I know I should use different type of needles for seger and sewing machine for construction, but I am not sure about cover stitch)

Thank you for your input.
  
Member since 11/9/06
Posts: 410
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Posted on: 3/23/08 10:11 AM ET
In reply to RIKA325
The needle size they suggest it a use one most fabric sort of deal. If sewing on a ligher weight fabric, a finer needle like a 70 or 75 is in order, and ball point is always prefered on knit fabrics and a heavier needle on heavier fabrics. It is just designed not to go around the fiber rather than going through the fiber. Wooly nylong in your looper works great when sewing on cotton jersey knit, and some heavier wool knits. But I would avoid it on a real light weight knit. But your best bet is to do some test sew-outs on a scrap of your fabric you are useing. Knits are making a big time come back, you can look forward to more and more in the fabric stores in the months ahead.

If your machine came with classes I would look into taking one, you really learn more than what the owers manual will teach you.

Happy sewing and Happy Easter too!
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John 3:16"For God so loved the world that he gave his one and only Son, that whoever believes in him shall not perish but have eternal life." NIV
  
Member since 4/11/02
Posts: 10809
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Posted on: 3/23/08 10:47 AM ET
In reply to Sewing Diva Susan
Quote:
If sewing on a ligher weight fabric, a finer needle like a 70 or 75 is in order,


No, you actually *must* use a size 90 needle in the 936 when coverstitching. That's one of the reasons I bought a standalone CS machine.
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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
  
Member since 4/4/05
Posts: 42
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Posted on: 3/23/08 11:36 AM ET
In reply to Debbie Cook
Well, I can kind of tell size 90 is "must" for 936 from the manual.....Becase it really specifies it. Not "recommend." Why 936 is so admant about 90???? OK, if so, should I use 90 ballpoint for knit coverstitch?

I bought this from the dealer inside Joann at Kenessaw, GA. I need to say this. They were not helpful. They provided only one new owner class for only covering reguler serger and excluded cover stitch and chain stitch. They said they need to take a class to teach. This was back to year 2006. I do not know now. I recently bought a Bernina sewing machine from Atlanta Sewing Center. They provide very informative multiple new owner classes.
  
Member since 11/9/06
Posts: 410
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Posted on: 3/23/08 11:51 AM ET
In reply to Debbie Cook
Quote: Debbie Cook
[QUOTE]
No, you actually *must* use a size 90 needle in the 936 when coverstitching. That's one of the reasons I bought a standalone CS machine.

That is really too bad. I am do not teach on this machine, so I am not in verse with it. I too prefer a stand alone cover stitich I have the babylock and the Janome CP1000, got the Janome because of the larger throat and the free arm both are a plus.
-- Edited on 3/23/08 11:52 AM --
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John 3:16"For God so loved the world that he gave his one and only Son, that whoever believes in him shall not perish but have eternal life." NIV
  
Member since 3/9/07
Posts: 1481
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Posted on: 3/23/08 2:01 PM ET
In reply to RIKA325
Rika,
I have the 936 and don't know why they mandate 90 needles for the coverstitch but it is so.

You'll also notice that when you set up for coverstitch and change the Sewing Advisor to fine knit fabric, the Sewing Advisor tells you that the coverstitch is not recommended for fine gauge knits (possibly because of the 90 needles?)

I do use it for fine knits, anyway, but the coverstitch will never be perfect on fine knits. And methods I use to improve the look of the coverstitch are: to put some tissue paper (or thicker paper if the knit is super fine) under the beginning of the piece to help the fabric move, and to pull very gently on the knit as it passes under the needles.

If you don't need the coverstitch hem to stretch in the finished garment, you can use fusible interfacing on the fine knit to 'beef up' the fabric as it passes under the needles. Not perfect but the best I can do. --Lily
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Lily
  
Member since 4/22/04
Posts: 7282
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Posted on: 3/23/08 3:50 PM ET
I think the size 90 is recommended possibly for the cover stitch. My coverlock recommends EL x 705 needles size 80 or 90 but can use conventional 130/705H for special threads and fabrics.
  
Member since 8/8/05
Posts: 111
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Posted on: 3/24/08 1:50 PM ET
I would recommend switiching to a ballpoint needles as you may find if your using a normal or sharp that the needle is catching on the threads. Industrial machine dealers in fact recommend using ballpoints all the time to save on needle money.
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Member since 12/9/04
Posts: 415
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Posted on: 3/24/08 5:44 PM ET
I think I asked my dealer about the 90 needle on Viking 936 and she might have bluffed an answer, but her answer was that it had something to do with the timing of the machine that makes 90 a must.
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'Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.' Oscar Wilde
  
Member since 4/11/02
Posts: 10809
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Posted on: 3/24/08 5:55 PM ET
In reply to utz
Quote: utz
but her answer was that it had something to do with the timing of the machine that makes 90 a must.

I'm pretty sure that's not a bluff.

I wish Belinda would pop in here ... she's well-versed with the specs of the 936. I think knowing I can ask her is why I don't keep those brain cells working.
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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
  
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