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Posted on: 4/14/08 9:00 AM ET
This is my third attempt at this friggin' blouse and the neckline is still too high. The collar sits uncomfortably under my hair and fabric bunches up at the neckline. I suspect the reason behind the bad fit is my choice in starting with a size 18, D cup. My HB is 37 and FB is 41. I have tried to make tops by starting with the HB measurement only to have to add considerably to the back, sides, and front. So, I thought I would try an 18 this time. I altered the side front, front, back, and side back for the twins and a sway back. I also took out an inch of length so that the neck-to-waist measurement would match mine and a RTW garment that fits fine.
What can I do?! Should I have started with a size 16? Should I try a 14 again? I am determined not to give up on this pattern. Pleeease help! Thanks! I will post a picture...er...soon. =)
What can I do?! Should I have started with a size 16? Should I try a 14 again? I am determined not to give up on this pattern. Pleeease help! Thanks! I will post a picture...er...soon. =)
Posted on: 4/14/08 1:06 PM ET
In reply to Lynnelle
Could we have some front, side, and back photos of you wearing said frigging blouse?
That would help with the evaluation of the problem.
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That would help with the evaluation of the problem.
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Elona
Posted on: 4/14/08 1:13 PM ET
In reply to Elona
Ok, will do.
Posted on: 4/14/08 4:57 PM ET
Lynelle, if I'm not mistaken, that is one of McCall's "Made-for-You" patterns, with different bodice fronts for A through D cups. In this case, you DEFINITELY want to buy by your HB measurement, and use the appropriate front. Also, you may be short through the upper body. Get someone to measure from the bump at the top of your back (the C7 vertebra, at the junction of back and neck) to your waist. Compare this to the back length on the pattern. You may need to shorten it.
Posted on: 4/14/08 5:10 PM ET
I've had all sorts of problems with "made for you"/cup size patterns. It seems like some are made where they all have the same full-bust measurement, and everything else is different in accordance, others assume you went with your high-bust measurement to choose the pattern size, and others I really have no idea what they're thinking. After making an only marginally wearable (bizarre, enormous pointy darts that went a good inch past my bust point) blouse out of beautiful fabric that I couldn't reclaim for anything else, I vowed that from now on I'll just use the B-cup pattern and adjust it, because at least I know what's going on then.
(Holy run-on sentence, Batman!)
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(Holy run-on sentence, Batman!)
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Tricia
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The advantage of being a beginner is, nobody has told you "That can't be done." This is also the disadvantage of being a beginner.
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The advantage of being a beginner is, nobody has told you "That can't be done." This is also the disadvantage of being a beginner.
Posted on: 4/14/08 5:18 PM ET
In reply to Lynnelle
Quote: Lynnelle
This is my third attempt at this friggin' blouse and the neckline is still too high. The collar sits uncomfortably under my hair and fabric bunches up at the neckline. I suspect the reason behind the bad fit is my choice in starting with a size 18, D cup. My HB is 37 and FB is 41. I have tried to make tops by starting with the HB measurement only to have to add considerably to the back, sides, and front. So, I thought I would try an 18 this time. I altered the side front, front, back, and side back for the twins and a sway back. I also took out an inch of length so that the neck-to-waist measurement would match mine and a RTW garment that fits fine.
What can I do?! Should I have started with a size 16? Should I try a 14 again? I am determined not to give up on this pattern. Pleeease help! Thanks! I will post a picture...er...soon. =)
This is my third attempt at this friggin' blouse and the neckline is still too high. The collar sits uncomfortably under my hair and fabric bunches up at the neckline. I suspect the reason behind the bad fit is my choice in starting with a size 18, D cup. My HB is 37 and FB is 41. I have tried to make tops by starting with the HB measurement only to have to add considerably to the back, sides, and front. So, I thought I would try an 18 this time. I altered the side front, front, back, and side back for the twins and a sway back. I also took out an inch of length so that the neck-to-waist measurement would match mine and a RTW garment that fits fine.
What can I do?! Should I have started with a size 16? Should I try a 14 again? I am determined not to give up on this pattern. Pleeease help! Thanks! I will post a picture...er...soon. =)
It took me a while to realize that I have to do a FBA, like it or not, and I've actaully mastered doing it. Twice

Now I see how much easier it is to do the FBA, than try to fix everthing else that is all wrong if I size up to the full bust measurement.
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Formerly sew*itch
Posted on: 4/14/08 7:36 PM ET
Where does it bunch up? In the front or back at the neckline?
Posted on: 4/14/08 8:14 PM ET
In reply to Lynnelle
Lynnelle, in your profile you mention you are short. How tall are you and did you shorten this pattern between the shoulder and bust point? In other words exactly where did you remove the 1" above the waist?
It sounds like it may be a combination of using the size 18 combined with not shortening the pattern in the right places. (The bigger the size, the longer the pattern is between the shoulder and bustpoint, possibly making the neckline sit high on your body). Photos would be helpful.
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It sounds like it may be a combination of using the size 18 combined with not shortening the pattern in the right places. (The bigger the size, the longer the pattern is between the shoulder and bustpoint, possibly making the neckline sit high on your body). Photos would be helpful.
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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 4/14/08 8:41 PM ET
Thank you, thank you all for the support!
Lucia/Lyonel: My neck-waist measurement is 15". I compared the finished neck-waist measurement on the pattern to that of a RTW blouse of the same. The RTW blouse is a size 14 and is a bit big, but comfortable. I will try to get the pictures (of M5471 and RTW blouse) taken tomorrow morning.
tr1c14: Love the run-on sentence. =)
BigDog: I once attempted to make B4463. I cut the pattern using my HB measurement (size 14) and did an FBA. The jacket is currently unfinished and hanging in my UFO closet. The dart was REALLY big, very pointy, and the jacket was very tight across the back. Since then (plus a few more muslins of different tops/jackets), I have been weary of size 14 starts. Maybe I am not identifying my problem areas correctly.
BeeJ: The blouse bunches up at the nape of the neck. The collar pushes the back of my hair up and has about a 1 - 1.5 inch fold beneath the collar stand.
Sew4Fun: I am 4'11". I shortened the torso (at lengthen-shorten lines) 1" for my sway back. I also took out shortened all bodice pieces by 0.5" in the high-bust area. I read...somewhere (Betzina, FFRP, PR?)...that short people need to do this. I am not certain if this is enough or proper for me as I have yet to set the sleeves.
Lynnelle
Lucia/Lyonel: My neck-waist measurement is 15". I compared the finished neck-waist measurement on the pattern to that of a RTW blouse of the same. The RTW blouse is a size 14 and is a bit big, but comfortable. I will try to get the pictures (of M5471 and RTW blouse) taken tomorrow morning.
tr1c14: Love the run-on sentence. =)
BigDog: I once attempted to make B4463. I cut the pattern using my HB measurement (size 14) and did an FBA. The jacket is currently unfinished and hanging in my UFO closet. The dart was REALLY big, very pointy, and the jacket was very tight across the back. Since then (plus a few more muslins of different tops/jackets), I have been weary of size 14 starts. Maybe I am not identifying my problem areas correctly.
BeeJ: The blouse bunches up at the nape of the neck. The collar pushes the back of my hair up and has about a 1 - 1.5 inch fold beneath the collar stand.
Sew4Fun: I am 4'11". I shortened the torso (at lengthen-shorten lines) 1" for my sway back. I also took out shortened all bodice pieces by 0.5" in the high-bust area. I read...somewhere (Betzina, FFRP, PR?)...that short people need to do this. I am not certain if this is enough or proper for me as I have yet to set the sleeves.
Lynnelle
Posted on: 4/14/08 10:22 PM ET
In reply to Lynnelle
>>I also took out shortened all bodice pieces by 0.5" in the high-bust area. I read...somewhere (Betzina, FFRP, PR?)...that short people need to do this. I am not certain if this is enough or proper for me as I have yet to set the sleeves.<<
This is a necessary adjustment for many people under the standard 5' 6". I'm 5' 4" and it's not unusual for me to shorten by 3/8" between shoulder and bust (high chest) when using a size 14. Half an inch on a size 18 at 4' 11" may not be enough, but I can't say without photos.
As you haven't set in the sleeves you could try pinning a horizontal tuck (back and front) across the upper chest to see if it helps. This will give you your answer. If it doesn't help then we can look at other options. Maybe your issue relates to square shoulders or as you suggested too big a size. With your m'ments I would have probably started with a size 16 D-cup.
If it makes you feel any better
I find the armscye princess style almost impossible to fit on my shorter D-cup body. The curve from armhole to bust is too short and curvy which throws off the fit everywhere else. I prefer to stick with the shoulder princess style.
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This is a necessary adjustment for many people under the standard 5' 6". I'm 5' 4" and it's not unusual for me to shorten by 3/8" between shoulder and bust (high chest) when using a size 14. Half an inch on a size 18 at 4' 11" may not be enough, but I can't say without photos.
As you haven't set in the sleeves you could try pinning a horizontal tuck (back and front) across the upper chest to see if it helps. This will give you your answer. If it doesn't help then we can look at other options. Maybe your issue relates to square shoulders or as you suggested too big a size. With your m'ments I would have probably started with a size 16 D-cup.
If it makes you feel any better
I find the armscye princess style almost impossible to fit on my shorter D-cup body. The curve from armhole to bust is too short and curvy which throws off the fit everywhere else. I prefer to stick with the shoulder princess style.------
Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/
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