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Moderated by EleanorSews
Posted on: 5/23/08 4:10 PM ET
If your pattern doesn't give you instructions for using a serger, how do you know when it's ok to serge vs. regular sewing to secure seams and keep them from fraying?
I wasn't sure how to search for this but I'm guessing there's a thread or two about this already.
I wasn't sure how to search for this but I'm guessing there's a thread or two about this already.
Posted on: 5/23/08 5:00 PM ET
In reply to Phisch
Pretty much anywhere you would use a zig zag to finish a seam allowance, you can use a serger. A lot of it (for me, at least) is trial and error. Some seams can be entirely done on a serger, some (actually, most) I prefer to sew on a conventional machine and finish w/ my serger. Sometimes I serge the sa's together, and sometimes I do each one independently. I also look to my RTW a lot to see how they finish seams and I follow suit. And knits don't NEED to be finished at all, but I do because they look much more RTW that way.
Two things I don't serge: zippers (although it can be done - so they say) and darts.
Clear as mud?
Eve
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Two things I don't serge: zippers (although it can be done - so they say) and darts.
Clear as mud?

Eve
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People who say it cannot be done should not interrupt those who are doing it - Chinese proverb
Re: Serging vs. normal sewing (posted on 5/23/08 5:14 PM ET)
Hehe. Clear!
Thanks for the info. I did make a dress recently and did what you said: sew then serge. The only seam I didn't do that with is the one that goes up to the bottom of the zipper...I wasn't sure how to work around it so I left it alone.
Thanks for the info. I did make a dress recently and did what you said: sew then serge. The only seam I didn't do that with is the one that goes up to the bottom of the zipper...I wasn't sure how to work around it so I left it alone.
Posted on: 5/23/08 5:21 PM ET
In reply to Phisch
Quote: Phisch
Hehe. Clear!
Thanks for the info. I did make a dress recently and did what you said: sew then serge. The only seam I didn't do that with is the one that goes up to the bottom of the zipper...I wasn't sure how to work around it so I left it alone.
Hehe. Clear!
Thanks for the info. I did make a dress recently and did what you said: sew then serge. The only seam I didn't do that with is the one that goes up to the bottom of the zipper...I wasn't sure how to work around it so I left it alone.
For seams with zippers, I usually cut a tad bigger seam allowance and then serge each S/A individually (being careful to leave as close to a 5/8 S/A as possible). Then, I just sew up the seam as normal and press open. This way, I get finished seams and no weirdness/bulkiness around the zipper. Does that make sense?
(I also do this on any seams where I don't want the extra bulk from having the S/A serged together--usually any seams that go over my hips, etc.)
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--Michelle
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Blog: http://happilycaffeinated.blogspot.com/
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Blog: http://happilycaffeinated.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 5/25/08 12:41 PM ET
In reply to Phisch
If you are working with a woven material, serged edges are easiest to do before sewing the seam. I take my pieces straight from the cutting table and serge the edges before I do anything else. It is harder to serge curved seams after sewing. Pre-serged seam allowances won't fray if you need to clip them to work with them, such as for princess seams where you need to clip the inside edge before you sew them.
In general. knits sew up very nicely and quickly on a serger. You can use a serger with good results to make up a woven garment. I like some woven garments done on a serger, but if it is a garment that I want to look really nice for a long time, or for a special occasion, then I will use a seam that I can press open and have finished edges.
Any serged seams that will have a lot of stress (shoulders, crotch) should be reinforced by sewing first with your regular sewing machine +/or by serging/sewing a reinforcing material to strengthen them. Elastic can be used for shoulder seams, but crotch seams should have a non-stretch material used because they have bias portions that you want to stabilize. Twill tape and silk organza are commonly used.
Play around with some of your fabrics scraps to get an idea of how they serge vs. how they sew up, how easy they are to press, how to get around corners and curves. Serging is faster, but conventional techniques usually give a smoother finish to the garment.
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In general. knits sew up very nicely and quickly on a serger. You can use a serger with good results to make up a woven garment. I like some woven garments done on a serger, but if it is a garment that I want to look really nice for a long time, or for a special occasion, then I will use a seam that I can press open and have finished edges.
Any serged seams that will have a lot of stress (shoulders, crotch) should be reinforced by sewing first with your regular sewing machine +/or by serging/sewing a reinforcing material to strengthen them. Elastic can be used for shoulder seams, but crotch seams should have a non-stretch material used because they have bias portions that you want to stabilize. Twill tape and silk organza are commonly used.
Play around with some of your fabrics scraps to get an idea of how they serge vs. how they sew up, how easy they are to press, how to get around corners and curves. Serging is faster, but conventional techniques usually give a smoother finish to the garment.
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Fictionfan
Posted on: 5/25/08 1:22 PM ET
I serge darts on knits, as long as I know its in the right spot etc.
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"What you WANT is irrelevant, what you've CHOSEN is at hand." --Mr. Spock
Posted on: 5/26/08 10:33 AM ET
I also do like Eve said, sew then serge. I like it much better this way. I have been so afraid that I'll run over pins (which I almost did once).
Another way you can serge seams is to serge the edge of the seam before you actually sew the seam together. This is only the edge of a single peice of fabric not sewing the two pieces together with the serging. You actually use your sewing machine to sew the seam together and then iron it open and each edge with look beautiful.
My mom showed me how to do this and it works great.
If you do this to all the seams then the inside of your garment will look as beautiful as the outside. I hope you can understand this. If you can't then I'll try to explain it better.
Meggie LuLu
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Another way you can serge seams is to serge the edge of the seam before you actually sew the seam together. This is only the edge of a single peice of fabric not sewing the two pieces together with the serging. You actually use your sewing machine to sew the seam together and then iron it open and each edge with look beautiful.
My mom showed me how to do this and it works great.
If you do this to all the seams then the inside of your garment will look as beautiful as the outside. I hope you can understand this. If you can't then I'll try to explain it better. Meggie LuLu

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Fabric $15, Thread $1.99, Pattern $1.99, Enjoyment I get from sewing it....priceless!!!!
47 projects finished this year....
142 projects finished in 2008....
SOOOO many in progress I can't even count!!!!
47 projects finished this year....
142 projects finished in 2008....
SOOOO many in progress I can't even count!!!!
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