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Posted on: 5/25/08 8:23 PM ET
Help!!! I'm working on an OOP pattern, the only things I could find in the style I wanted. I started by tissue fitting and making a FBA following the instructions in FFRP. but something is way off. When I tissue fit the pattern I had a gap of about 1.5 inches from my CF to the CF on the pattern. I slashed and added 1.5 to the tissue(cut on fold).
Not quite enough of an adjustement as you can tell from the pictures here
I've added 3 inches to the center front and Holy Massive Mamories, this thing is way too tight
I haven't put the bias binding around the armholes or done the buttons & buttonholes but at this point I can't see the reason to bother. The neckline and armholes feel right, but I'm about ready to try breast reduction
I'm making view A using a size 10 which is the correct measurement for my high bust. Help, what do I do before I try again???
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Not quite enough of an adjustement as you can tell from the pictures here
I've added 3 inches to the center front and Holy Massive Mamories, this thing is way too tight
I haven't put the bias binding around the armholes or done the buttons & buttonholes but at this point I can't see the reason to bother. The neckline and armholes feel right, but I'm about ready to try breast reduction
I'm making view A using a size 10 which is the correct measurement for my high bust. Help, what do I do before I try again???------
Formerly sew*itch
Posted on: 5/25/08 10:28 PM ET
What happened to the side seams? Are they moved toward the front or are they pretty well centered under your arm?
If they are centered you probably need a larger size pattern for your lower bodice. If your pattern isn't multi-sized you could just add to the side seams front and back....
edited to say:
I just noticed that you do have a side photo! Yes, I do think you need a larger addition to the width of the front bodice.
You might try doing the change with a pivot and slide from the shoulder point or about halfway down the armhole. I say this because it seems you need a bit more space across the front between the armholes.
You might want to lengthen the placket a little on your next version as the proportions are somewhat different on the pattern drawing. But I'd say that's really optional...
-- Edited on 5/25/08 10:38 PM --
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If they are centered you probably need a larger size pattern for your lower bodice. If your pattern isn't multi-sized you could just add to the side seams front and back....
edited to say:
I just noticed that you do have a side photo! Yes, I do think you need a larger addition to the width of the front bodice.
You might try doing the change with a pivot and slide from the shoulder point or about halfway down the armhole. I say this because it seems you need a bit more space across the front between the armholes.
You might want to lengthen the placket a little on your next version as the proportions are somewhat different on the pattern drawing. But I'd say that's really optional...
-- Edited on 5/25/08 10:38 PM --
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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com
Posted on: 5/25/08 10:48 PM ET
In reply to goodworks1
Yes the side seams are pulled toward the front about an inch.
Does that mean I should add 1 inch to each side seam?
I can feel and see how tight it is across the bust, will adding to the seam allowance get rid of all the wrinkles in the lower back area. I'm guessing they are caused by al the pulling through the bustline???
I'm determined to make as many muslins as I have to to get this shirt to work out for me.
BTW the pattern is originally designed for woven fabrics, my muslin as well as the finished garment will be a knit.
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Does that mean I should add 1 inch to each side seam?
I can feel and see how tight it is across the bust, will adding to the seam allowance get rid of all the wrinkles in the lower back area. I'm guessing they are caused by al the pulling through the bustline???
I'm determined to make as many muslins as I have to to get this shirt to work out for me.
BTW the pattern is originally designed for woven fabrics, my muslin as well as the finished garment will be a knit.
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Formerly sew*itch
Posted on: 5/25/08 11:24 PM ET
In reply to Big Dog
You can add to the front side seam, but if you add from top to bottom you'll also increase the size of the armhole which means the front armhole will be cut in more than the original pattern.
To maintain the original armhole you might want to split and spread the front of the pattern from a point near the base of the neck. Or do the pivot and slide method at the shoulder point that Nancy Zieman uses and just do it as you trace the new pattern. As far as I can tell there's nothing wrong with what you did. You just need even more width/space in the front. (You have a fairly 'deep' chest front to back so it takes up more space inside the garment than the pattern allows for for folks with more flat/oval chests - I have this too, that's why I recognize it)
Likely the back will look fine once you have the front right. You might need minor tweeks to it, but they'll be relatively easy to see once you get this next step done.
Elaine
edited to add:
I think I'd add at least an inch at the level of your full bust.
Either of the two ways I suggested above will increase the width at the bottom of the garment quite a bit. When you get the bust area to fit right then you can stand in front of the mirror and fold out a dart from the hem to your bust. Mark it and then if you don't want a vertical dart on your blouse, rotate it into the side dart.
Good for you for working through this!
-- Edited on 5/25/08 11:28 PM --
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To maintain the original armhole you might want to split and spread the front of the pattern from a point near the base of the neck. Or do the pivot and slide method at the shoulder point that Nancy Zieman uses and just do it as you trace the new pattern. As far as I can tell there's nothing wrong with what you did. You just need even more width/space in the front. (You have a fairly 'deep' chest front to back so it takes up more space inside the garment than the pattern allows for for folks with more flat/oval chests - I have this too, that's why I recognize it)
Likely the back will look fine once you have the front right. You might need minor tweeks to it, but they'll be relatively easy to see once you get this next step done.
Elaine
edited to add:
I think I'd add at least an inch at the level of your full bust.
Either of the two ways I suggested above will increase the width at the bottom of the garment quite a bit. When you get the bust area to fit right then you can stand in front of the mirror and fold out a dart from the hem to your bust. Mark it and then if you don't want a vertical dart on your blouse, rotate it into the side dart.
Good for you for working through this!
-- Edited on 5/25/08 11:28 PM --
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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com
Posted on: 5/26/08 1:02 AM ET
You definitely have drag lines pointing toward the bust still.
And the back is pulling also.
Did you (or do you ever need to) do any adjustments to the back?
The back can affect the front. You can have the shoulders fit, yet have a broad back & need extra across the back. Fixing the back can give you more ease in the front.
If the 1 & 1/2 inch FBA got the CF to YOUR CF (in the shoulder/high bust area), then the front should be OK.
You could also need some increase at the side seams for waist & hips larger than the pattern measurements. You could taper out from just below the armhole to add the needed amount.
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And the back is pulling also.
Did you (or do you ever need to) do any adjustments to the back?
The back can affect the front. You can have the shoulders fit, yet have a broad back & need extra across the back. Fixing the back can give you more ease in the front.
If the 1 & 1/2 inch FBA got the CF to YOUR CF (in the shoulder/high bust area), then the front should be OK.
You could also need some increase at the side seams for waist & hips larger than the pattern measurements. You could taper out from just below the armhole to add the needed amount.
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SEWING: Pfaff Performance Icon; Pfaff Performance 5.2; Baby Lock Ellegante; Elna Air Electronic SU; Singer Featherweight. SERGING; Baby Lock Imagine Wave; Baby Lock Acclaim; Baby Lock Coverstitch
Posted on: 5/26/08 9:06 AM ET
I agree with Reekoll that you have a broad back. When fitting patterns, you need to adjust the back before adjusting the front.
Most of the wrinkles in the back are horizontal which indicate that it's too tight across the back. But some of the wrinkles are droopy, and indicate that the top is too long from neck to waist. How does your CB measurement compare to the pattern? I think you need to tuck out some vertical length. You can't see this on the front because the bust is stealing the extra length, but this is a tuck you'd do evenly front and back.
The dart you have sewn also looks like it is pointing too high, which means it's not releasing fabric where you need it at your apex. This could account for some of the diagonal wrinkles on the front.
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Most of the wrinkles in the back are horizontal which indicate that it's too tight across the back. But some of the wrinkles are droopy, and indicate that the top is too long from neck to waist. How does your CB measurement compare to the pattern? I think you need to tuck out some vertical length. You can't see this on the front because the bust is stealing the extra length, but this is a tuck you'd do evenly front and back.
The dart you have sewn also looks like it is pointing too high, which means it's not releasing fabric where you need it at your apex. This could account for some of the diagonal wrinkles on the front.
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--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
Posted on: 5/26/08 10:08 AM ET
Ah ha, I thought the darts looked to high as well, and I did move them down about an inch to try to account for the forces of gravity.
The suggesttion of shortening the waist length never occured to me and it should have, I've always taken out an inch for my short torso(actually an inch at the waist on tops and an inch between the waist and crotch in pants).
I've never altered for a broad back, but looking at the pictures again I see that I probably should, this cutaway armhole style seems to accent that.
How much of an adjustment should I start with? Should I start with an inch in the back and just move the darts, and shorten the waist on the front pattern piece for the next muslin?
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The suggesttion of shortening the waist length never occured to me and it should have, I've always taken out an inch for my short torso(actually an inch at the waist on tops and an inch between the waist and crotch in pants).
I've never altered for a broad back, but looking at the pictures again I see that I probably should, this cutaway armhole style seems to accent that.
How much of an adjustment should I start with? Should I start with an inch in the back and just move the darts, and shorten the waist on the front pattern piece for the next muslin?
------
Formerly sew*itch
Posted on: 5/26/08 10:27 AM ET
In reply to Big Dog
I don't think you have to actually move the entire dart down, but re-angle it to be more horizontal. The dart pointing to the wrong place may be some of the reason for the folds below the bust, as is the too-long neck-to-waist length. Since the bust breaks up that length, the fabric may be just falling in diagonal folds, like the back "droopies" at your waist.
Which adjustment?
If torso length, measure yours and compare it to the pattern envelope. Remove the difference, in the same amount for front and back as a horizontal tuck. You may be able to make this tuck right below the bust dart so you wouldn't have to move that (other than to re-angle as per above).
If broad back, unstitch the sideseams and see how much gap that leaves. If the back is still showing too-tight wrinkles with the sideseams undone, add a *little* more than what the gap is.
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Quote:
How much of an adjustment should I start with? Should I start with an inch in the back and just move the darts, and shorten the waist on the front pattern piece for the next muslin?
How much of an adjustment should I start with? Should I start with an inch in the back and just move the darts, and shorten the waist on the front pattern piece for the next muslin?
Which adjustment?
If torso length, measure yours and compare it to the pattern envelope. Remove the difference, in the same amount for front and back as a horizontal tuck. You may be able to make this tuck right below the bust dart so you wouldn't have to move that (other than to re-angle as per above).
If broad back, unstitch the sideseams and see how much gap that leaves. If the back is still showing too-tight wrinkles with the sideseams undone, add a *little* more than what the gap is.
------
--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
Posted on: 5/26/08 10:33 AM ET
OK, I'll give that a try and see what happens. I am determined to copy the shirt I saw, so be it if I have to make several muslins firsts.
About lengthing the placket, hmm, with shortening the waist length I "think" I can get away without it, the next muslin will tell.
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About lengthing the placket, hmm, with shortening the waist length I "think" I can get away without it, the next muslin will tell.
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Formerly sew*itch
Posted on: 5/26/08 12:24 PM ET
In reply to Big Dog
Big Dog, Your garment is pulling towards the front. Adding more fabric for the front will relax the tight fit in the back. In addition to the garment pulling to the front--the front is pulling up at center front. This means you also need more length to cover the fullness in front. The dart is pointing above your apex and needs to be dropped. Making these corrections will help what is going on in the back. You may indeed have too much length on the center back. At this point I would fix the front and then take a look at the back. A full bust requires a deeper armhole curve. The most comprehensive book for pattern alteration is Judith Rasband's Fabulous Fit Second Edition.
What do your high bust and full bust measure? I have found that many ladies get a false (too small) high bust measurement by not keeping the tape measure straight across the upper chest.
What do your high bust and full bust measure? I have found that many ladies get a false (too small) high bust measurement by not keeping the tape measure straight across the upper chest.
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