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Member since 7/25/08
Posts: 11055
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Posted on: 7/29/08 7:36 AM ET
Have you had trouble wearing the new empire-waist styles in RTW, where the bodice length is designed for Jr. figures? Many of those have the seamline hit you right across the bust. Trying to sew some, and looking for hints on adjusting pattern bodices. I've had disappointments just adding a couple inches length to the top piece for "senior" ladies who no longer have a bustline up by the clavicle! Then the v-necks become too revealing, etc. Any hints? Are any pattern brands better for this?
Thanks!
  
Member since 8/18/02
Posts: 117
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Posted on: 7/30/08 1:46 PM ET
I also have a long torso. I would first evaluate the pattern by pining it together to see were the marking for the bust point is hitting me.
Bust too high:
  1. Make a visable mark at your bust point on pattern.

  2. Take the pattern off and measure from the pattern's bust point to the mark.

  3. This is how much you need to insert above the bustpoint to make the pattern's bustpoint line up with yours.

  4. In order to find the place to insert the length look at the shape of the armhole. As the armhole comes down from the shoulder it is straight. The extra length should be inserted in this straight area.

  5. Draw a line straight across the armhole to the neck line, and cut.

  6. Insert a piece of tissue the width of the amount that needs to be inserted in your pattern and the length of the pattern.

  7. Pin the pattern together again to check that your bust point is now in the correct location.

  8. Now look to see were the empire waistline is hitting you in the correct spot.

  9. If it is too long shorten by making a pleat that takes up the same amount of fabric that you added, and keep adjusting until you like the length.

Raise Neckline:
  1. The shoulder neckline juction is the hinge point for raising the neckline.
  2. Insert a wide piece of tissue along the neckline with a pin holding the tissue in place at the junction point.
  3. While looking in the miror raise the tissue to the desired neckline height. Pin.
  4. Transition and true the neckline.
  5. Adjust your facings to match.

Now MAKE YOUR MUSLIN, transfer all your markings. I like to use dressmakers carbon in two colors. The original pattern lines in blue, new lines in red.

I hope this helps!
------
Kelly
Threads Articles: Strategic Stetch- April 2016 and Skirts that Flatter-April 2015
  
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