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Member since 2/16/06
Posts: 165
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Posted on: 8/1/08 3:10 PM ET
Every time I buy a RTW garment I usually take it to my alterations lady to get it taken in at the shoulders. I've noticed this especially on sleeveless dresses. To make it fit the best, I'd pinch an inch or so from the seam that runs parallel to the top of my shoulder (like from the top of the strap on a tank top).

What is that adjustment called? Are we really taking it from the armhole? Is it a short torso thing? A shoulder thing?

Just wondering how I should translate that to my sewing patterns as well.
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Member since 4/11/02
Posts: 10809
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Posted on: 8/1/08 3:29 PM ET
If you're just taking it in/up at the shoulder seams, then the armhole is too low. Which is usually true for both RTW and patterns in the plus range. RTW rotates bust fullness into the armhole, which makes it low. Pattern companies just think we all have huge armpits or something.

On patterns, if it's the bottom of the armhole that isn't coming up high enough, you would fold out a horizontal tuck across the armhole, front and back. You will also make the same tuck across the whole sleeve at the bicep "line." You'll have to true the sleeve seamlines and also likely redraw the cap so it stays high instead of flattening out (measuring the seamline so you don't add more length than can be easily eased into the armhole). But you have more leeway about that with a knit sleeve since they don't need high sleevecaps and usually don't have any or much cap ease.

Is that clear??

Once you get a good armhole/sleeve for a woven pattern and a knit pattern, you can trace those onto new patterns instead of re-inventing the wheel each time.
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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
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Member since 2/16/06
Posts: 165
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Posted on: 8/1/08 3:34 PM ET
Thanks for the quick reply. What you're saying makes sense, I just am going to have to do it before it REALLY makes sense, you know? I haven't tackled a shirt in a woven yet so this is probably a good starting place.

I signed up for some one on one sewing classes at a local shop and told the instructor I want to work on fitting, so I'm sure we'll be tackling this issue too.
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Member since 6/5/08
Posts: 157
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Posted on: 8/6/08 1:50 PM ET
In reply to Debbie Cook
Quote: Debbie Cook
Pattern companies just think we all have huge armpits or something.


  
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