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Moderated by EleanorSews
Posted on: 8/22/08 4:40 PM ET
Hi! Maybe someone can help me! I'm lining a sheath dress instead of doing armhole and neckline facings as the pattern suggests. What order do I sew this together? I've attached the lining and the dress each together at the shoulder seams. I'm getting stymied trying to figure out when I do the back zipper. I'm stuck! can anyone help? Thanks!
Julie
Julie
Posted on: 8/23/08 0:41 AM ET
A view of the pattern you are using would be helpful, but in lieu of the pattern view, here is a method I have used w/ great success (I know visuals would be helpful, but I don't have any...hopefully I'll make sense though)
Main Garment
1. Stitch the front to the back at the shoulder seams.
2. Stitch side seams together
3. Stitch CB seam, allowing room for the zipper - baste the remaining CB seam shut (where the zipper will be); press the entire CB seam open. Stitch in the Zipper. Remove basting.
Lining
1. Stitch the front to the back at the shoulder seams.
2. Stitch side seams together.
3. Stitch CB seam, allowing room for the zipper - baste the zipper area closed. press the seam open. Do NOT remove basting yet.
At the neckline edges, and arm hole edges, pin lining to the main garment (you will want this wrong side to wrong side. - so the seams will face each other, and the internal and external seams are smooth) Baste the neckline together, and baste the arm holes together.
Flip the lining up to expose the CB seam, locate the basted area and working one side at a time, stitch the edge of the basted seam to the zipper edge (you may not be able to stitch the entire length of the zipper -as this is done internally), this method works to secure the lining to the zipper w/o being visible on the outside. Remove the basting from the lining CB seam.
Use bias tape to bind the armholes, and neckline. Voila, a lined garment
Alternatively (and I really hesitate suggesting this manner of zipper insertion) you could baste the area for the zipper on both the lining and main garment, press the CB seam open, REMOVE the basting, "sandwich" the zipper between the lining and main garment, and stitch in place. The only issue/problem that you would have, is simply it wouldn't give you a "lapped" zipper look.
-- Edited on 8/23/08 0:44 AM --
Main Garment
1. Stitch the front to the back at the shoulder seams.
2. Stitch side seams together
3. Stitch CB seam, allowing room for the zipper - baste the remaining CB seam shut (where the zipper will be); press the entire CB seam open. Stitch in the Zipper. Remove basting.
Lining
1. Stitch the front to the back at the shoulder seams.
2. Stitch side seams together.
3. Stitch CB seam, allowing room for the zipper - baste the zipper area closed. press the seam open. Do NOT remove basting yet.
At the neckline edges, and arm hole edges, pin lining to the main garment (you will want this wrong side to wrong side. - so the seams will face each other, and the internal and external seams are smooth) Baste the neckline together, and baste the arm holes together.
Flip the lining up to expose the CB seam, locate the basted area and working one side at a time, stitch the edge of the basted seam to the zipper edge (you may not be able to stitch the entire length of the zipper -as this is done internally), this method works to secure the lining to the zipper w/o being visible on the outside. Remove the basting from the lining CB seam.
Use bias tape to bind the armholes, and neckline. Voila, a lined garment

Alternatively (and I really hesitate suggesting this manner of zipper insertion) you could baste the area for the zipper on both the lining and main garment, press the CB seam open, REMOVE the basting, "sandwich" the zipper between the lining and main garment, and stitch in place. The only issue/problem that you would have, is simply it wouldn't give you a "lapped" zipper look.
-- Edited on 8/23/08 0:44 AM --
Posted on: 8/23/08 4:11 PM ET
I'm gearing myself up to do this, however, I would like to keep the neck facing and attach it to the lining.
I am thinking I need to trace the facing, add a seam allowance to the bottom edge, then... I'll figure it out my evil scheme when I get there. It shouldn't be too hard *crossing fingers*
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I am thinking I need to trace the facing, add a seam allowance to the bottom edge, then... I'll figure it out my evil scheme when I get there. It shouldn't be too hard *crossing fingers*
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Leah
Posted on: 8/23/08 5:40 PM ET
In reply to Miss Julie
Check out my review for a lined sheath dress here.
I gave order of construction and how to line through the shoulder without having to hand stitch any portion of it.
HTH
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I gave order of construction and how to line through the shoulder without having to hand stitch any portion of it.
HTH
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Marji
Posted on: 8/23/08 5:47 PM ET
In reply to Marji
I'm so glad this thread was started!
I have many vintage variations of sheath dresses that I'd like to be able to line if I choose.
Thanks ladies for all of the info. Marji, as always, you are a wealth of information.
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I have many vintage variations of sheath dresses that I'd like to be able to line if I choose.
Thanks ladies for all of the info. Marji, as always, you are a wealth of information.

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A bad day in the sewing room is better than a good day at the office.
Getting through life, one stitch at a time.
http://when-ladies-dressed.blogspot.com/
Getting through life, one stitch at a time.
http://when-ladies-dressed.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 8/23/08 7:48 PM ET
In reply to Marji
Thank you!
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Leah
Posted on: 8/23/08 9:53 PM ET
In reply to Leora
You're welcome ladies. Part of the reason we spend so much time writing these reviews is to pass along information, and I'm really happy to know it helps some people.
NancyWin has also written a tutorial on how to construct a lined sheath - I think it's the same construction order but it's worded a bit differently, and the combination of the two may be helpful.
Nancy's tutorial
Also, Leora, I'll be reviewing a skirt for my sister this week that I added a lining to, and kept the facing off the lining.
The thing to do is, cut your lining, and stitch any darts you need to. Cut your facing.
Mark your seam line on your facing, and measure that far down your lining and mark your lining along the seam line. Then add seam allowance (I'd recommend 1/4" - you don't need a whole 5/8").
Trim the lining off at the cutting line you've drawn, stitch your facing to your lining, then finish your construction same as written for lining to the edge.
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NancyWin has also written a tutorial on how to construct a lined sheath - I think it's the same construction order but it's worded a bit differently, and the combination of the two may be helpful.
Nancy's tutorial
Also, Leora, I'll be reviewing a skirt for my sister this week that I added a lining to, and kept the facing off the lining.
The thing to do is, cut your lining, and stitch any darts you need to. Cut your facing.
Mark your seam line on your facing, and measure that far down your lining and mark your lining along the seam line. Then add seam allowance (I'd recommend 1/4" - you don't need a whole 5/8").
Trim the lining off at the cutting line you've drawn, stitch your facing to your lining, then finish your construction same as written for lining to the edge.
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Marji
Posted on: 8/24/08 2:51 AM ET
In reply to Marji
Great! That makes perfect sense. Now I know how to attach the facing to the lining.
I am so thankful for awesome instruction and the willingness to share around here

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I am so thankful for awesome instruction and the willingness to share around here


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Leah
Posted on: 8/24/08 11:06 AM ET
If you by chance have the Readers Digest Sewing book, the original one from the 70's it has diagrams step by step for lining a sleeveless dress. (page 81)
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My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.
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