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Crotch depth -- front versus back (Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952)
Posted on: 11/10/08 8:02 PM ET
Yesterday I was wearing a pair of stretch twill jeans-type pants from Eddie Bauer and just marveling at how perfect they fit me. So I got the brilliant idea to trace a muslin pattern from them, which I did today.
Then I took my muslin pattern pieces and laid them on top of a Burda pants pattern and a Kwik Sew jeans pattern, and as closely as I can tell, even though I'm 5'2" tall, I need a "taller" back crotch than front crotch -- not in the crotch length at the crotch itself but in the crotch depth going up the back (probably because I have an ample bottom -- not huge, but ample
)
I measured 3 pairs of my jeans that fit me really well, all size 6 (two of them the curvy version), and all of them had a good 3-1/2" to 4-1/2" difference between the depth of the front and the depth of the back.
So if I decide to make the Kwik Sew jeans, would it work for me to cut the cutting line of the medium width-wise (which looks like the right fit for me), but then when I get to the bottom of the fly extension, follow the "height" cutting line of the XS in the front and the S in the back, blending it at the sides? That's the closest it gets to being like my Eddie Bauer pants (so the width of a M, the depth/height in the front that of an XS, and the depth/height in the back that of a S).
I'm also surprised to see how short the front crotch length is on my favorite pants. They each have this little very short curve, whereas pants patterns seem to have a bigger/longer curve there.
Of course, I'm doing ALL this when my REAL challenge will be to draft a Lutterloh jeans pattern to fit me, but I haven't decided which one yet, haven't drafted a pattern yet, am in the middle of Christmas sewing so don't have time right now, and just happened to have those other two patterns handy for my little experiment comparing patterns to RTW.
Any suggestions, or has anyone else noticed this crotch depth difference being bigger in RTW than pattterns, and how did you fix it?
Sally
Then I took my muslin pattern pieces and laid them on top of a Burda pants pattern and a Kwik Sew jeans pattern, and as closely as I can tell, even though I'm 5'2" tall, I need a "taller" back crotch than front crotch -- not in the crotch length at the crotch itself but in the crotch depth going up the back (probably because I have an ample bottom -- not huge, but ample
) I measured 3 pairs of my jeans that fit me really well, all size 6 (two of them the curvy version), and all of them had a good 3-1/2" to 4-1/2" difference between the depth of the front and the depth of the back.
So if I decide to make the Kwik Sew jeans, would it work for me to cut the cutting line of the medium width-wise (which looks like the right fit for me), but then when I get to the bottom of the fly extension, follow the "height" cutting line of the XS in the front and the S in the back, blending it at the sides? That's the closest it gets to being like my Eddie Bauer pants (so the width of a M, the depth/height in the front that of an XS, and the depth/height in the back that of a S).
I'm also surprised to see how short the front crotch length is on my favorite pants. They each have this little very short curve, whereas pants patterns seem to have a bigger/longer curve there.
Of course, I'm doing ALL this when my REAL challenge will be to draft a Lutterloh jeans pattern to fit me, but I haven't decided which one yet, haven't drafted a pattern yet, am in the middle of Christmas sewing so don't have time right now, and just happened to have those other two patterns handy for my little experiment comparing patterns to RTW.
Any suggestions, or has anyone else noticed this crotch depth difference being bigger in RTW than pattterns, and how did you fix it?
Sally
Posted on: 11/11/08 9:57 AM ET
In reply to Sallygirl
Today after work I'm going to make a paper pattern from my muslin I drew out yesterday, comparing that to my RTW pants just to get a feel for the shape of my body, what works, and what doesn't.
My feeling is I have a deep back crotch and a shallow front crotch, which makes sense when I analyze my body.
Then I can use that as my master pattern and go from there.
My feeling is I have a deep back crotch and a shallow front crotch, which makes sense when I analyze my body.
Then I can use that as my master pattern and go from there.
Posted on: 11/11/08 10:14 AM ET
I agree; I think your best bet is to work out the pattern you've started. I don't think I'd bother with Lutterloh if I could get a TNT without the work - and no doubt the style is more up-to-date on the jeans you love than the Lutterloh versions.
-- Edited on 11/11/08 10:15 AM --
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-- Edited on 11/11/08 10:15 AM --
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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com
Posted on: 11/11/08 11:47 AM ET
In reply to goodworks1
Well, since I just bought my Lutterloh system, I have challenged myself to make a pair of jeans with it -- not sure why, but I did. 
I was worried about the up-to-date-ness of my Lutterloh patterns until I bought a Vogue magazine the other day and realized the styles in there were almost exactly alike -- things I was sure were out of style.
The Eddie Bauer pants are more suited to a stretch twill type of pant. The Kwik Sew pattern is a jeans pattern. I'm thinking if I can get the crotch height/depth/length situation worked out, I can transfer that to any type of pants pattern I use.
I bought 6 Simplicity patterns for $1 each yesterday so I would have more instructions for sewing my Lutterloh patterns. It looks like I am going to have to tackle a welt pocket. I had no idea how many welt pockets I have on my RTW pants.
Yesterday I bought some stretch charmeuse on clearance just to make a little nightgown from Lutterloh for my first project to test the fit, then a vest will follow, followed by something more complicated like pants, a blouse, etc. I noticed they have a lot of coat patterns but very few cute little tops/blouses, so I have been getting those from the Big 4.

I was worried about the up-to-date-ness of my Lutterloh patterns until I bought a Vogue magazine the other day and realized the styles in there were almost exactly alike -- things I was sure were out of style.

The Eddie Bauer pants are more suited to a stretch twill type of pant. The Kwik Sew pattern is a jeans pattern. I'm thinking if I can get the crotch height/depth/length situation worked out, I can transfer that to any type of pants pattern I use.
I bought 6 Simplicity patterns for $1 each yesterday so I would have more instructions for sewing my Lutterloh patterns. It looks like I am going to have to tackle a welt pocket. I had no idea how many welt pockets I have on my RTW pants.

Yesterday I bought some stretch charmeuse on clearance just to make a little nightgown from Lutterloh for my first project to test the fit, then a vest will follow, followed by something more complicated like pants, a blouse, etc. I noticed they have a lot of coat patterns but very few cute little tops/blouses, so I have been getting those from the Big 4.
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