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Moderated by Deepika
Posted on: 11/11/08 6:44 PM ET
I'm just finishing up the buttoned down blouse. My first one I hated the fabric. I tried everything for the seams to look decent....it's a goner! So I started on another one out of a nice washable linen. It says to put a narrow 5/8 inch hem. On the first one I did that and the side seams where the hem curves up like on a men's tucked in shirt, it wrinkled and looked terrible. I thought years ago I remember reading where to sew a long stitch and pull up the threads gathering it to lay flat. Or was I dreaming this? What kind of hem would you suggest in this blouse View E
Posted on: 11/11/08 7:35 PM ET
Do you have a serger? I just did my first shell hem on some chiffon and that would make a nice shirt tail finish. But yes, somewhere someone did talk about a shirt til finish 0 was it Karla Kizer maybe? Good luck!
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http://bgballroom.wordpress.com to follow the progress on my next ballgown.
Posted on: 11/11/08 8:01 PM ET
Shirt-tail hems are not my favorite, but the best way I've found to handle them is to turn up 1/4" and steam press easing out the little wrinkles and ripples as I go, then repeat the process. Use lots of steam and very slight stretch around the curved areas to ease in the fabric. I find that starting at the side seams and working my way to the center front and back provides the best results.
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Formerly sew*itch
Posted on: 11/11/08 8:41 PM ET
When you are making a hem on a convex curve, which is what you have with a shaped shirt tail, the bottom edge will be somewhat longer than the hem stitching line. Here is my quick (and dirty) method of making a shirt tail hem: serge just below the hemline using a zero differential feed setting until you get to the curved part of the hem. At the curved part increase the differential feed. This will draw in the cloth on the portion of the cloth to be turned up allowing you to stitch the hem without getting puckers on the turned up portion. (I originally posted this in the tips and techniques section)
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Brine
Posted on: 11/12/08 4:03 AM ET
In reply to halleyscomet
I make lots of shirts--I mean. lots of shirts--Pants, a shell and a shirt is my standard uniform for work 'cause it's an easy thing to just pull one of each out of the closet and have a comfortable, co-ordinated outfit for the day--Here's how I do the hems and they always come out with smooth curves and no puckers:
After I turn the front facings to the outside and stitch across them, I stitch around the rest of the lower edge with a long basting stitch right at 5/8" from the edge--Then I turn the edge up right on that row of stitching being very careful to only press just the very edge of the fold on all of the curves--
Now I go back and re-press the hem, turning the raw edge in to meet the fold as I go--On the curves, it sometimes helps to stab the double folded edge to the ironing board with pins every couple of inches and steam it a bit to shrink the folded fabric around the curve and then carefully press between the pins before moving on--Once it's all pressed this way, I can stitch close to the folded edge--When I'm finished, I go back and pull out the row of basting stitches--
It takes a little bit of time, but once I'd done it this way a couple of times, it started to go quicker--Doing it this way, you're shrinking the excess in on the outside curves and out on the inside curves at the same time and the bias on those curves is working for you instead of against you and you wind up with nice, smooth double-folded curves all the way around--C
After I turn the front facings to the outside and stitch across them, I stitch around the rest of the lower edge with a long basting stitch right at 5/8" from the edge--Then I turn the edge up right on that row of stitching being very careful to only press just the very edge of the fold on all of the curves--
Now I go back and re-press the hem, turning the raw edge in to meet the fold as I go--On the curves, it sometimes helps to stab the double folded edge to the ironing board with pins every couple of inches and steam it a bit to shrink the folded fabric around the curve and then carefully press between the pins before moving on--Once it's all pressed this way, I can stitch close to the folded edge--When I'm finished, I go back and pull out the row of basting stitches--
It takes a little bit of time, but once I'd done it this way a couple of times, it started to go quicker--Doing it this way, you're shrinking the excess in on the outside curves and out on the inside curves at the same time and the bias on those curves is working for you instead of against you and you wind up with nice, smooth double-folded curves all the way around--C
Posted on: 11/12/08 5:18 AM ET
To make a rounded shirt-tail hem, I sew a line of stitching 5/8 " from the bottom (or wherever the hem line is to be). Then I turn the hem up on this stitched line and press/steam it in place. Then, on the underside, I fold in the allowance so the raw edge meets the fold and baste it in place, and again press/steam it to shrink and lay it flat. I then top-stitch it in place an even distance all around from the bottom edge, being sure to catch the free edge which is folded in. Then I remove the basting stitches. Sometimes, if it is not noticeable, I will just leave in my first line of stitching from which I turned up the hem on. (I do not have a serger, but I think I would use this method even if I did)
Posted on: 11/12/08 5:23 AM ET
ETA, I just noticed that the method I have just written about is a repeat of what CandiMarie suggested.
Posted on: 11/12/08 8:07 AM ET
In reply to CandiMarie
CandiMarie, this is the way I do it as well. Ironing really makes this work best. I make the 5/8 basting stitch and do the folding as you stated. I wouldn't be able to do half the sewing I do, without my iron
Posted on: 11/12/08 9:31 AM ET
Here's a tip for sewing a hem using bias binding. I usually cut my own binding form self fabric, but you could usse purchased binding as well.
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Trinity
I probably have too many sewing machines, but how am I supposed to resist when they're either free by the side of the road or people give them to me?
http://thimblesthreadsandneedles.blogspot.com/
I probably have too many sewing machines, but how am I supposed to resist when they're either free by the side of the road or people give them to me?
http://thimblesthreadsandneedles.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 11/12/08 10:26 AM ET
In reply to CandiMarie
You can also use glue stick to keep the hem in place and keep it from from creeping ahead, which is why you get the wrinkles.
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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
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