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Member since 11/27/06
Posts: 112
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Posted on: 11/21/08 7:46 PM ET
Hey I'm needing some help. I'm making a nice "dress" vest with bottom weight fabric. I'm using bottom weight for both side, and the back with the inside right and left lining being bottom weight too. What needle would you use? I'm about to go with a jeans needle because there is some thickness there. Thoughts? Please let me know. Matt :-)
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Matt, Spfld, IL.

P.S. Remember we still cannot make a silk purse out of a sow's ear.
  
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 13915
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Posted on: 11/21/08 7:53 PM ET
In reply to Matt_Shaver
Unless it is densely woven fabric like a denim or twill, I'd use a universal needle and a 14/90. Try and use the smallest needle that works well for you. For most clothing, an 80/12 is the starting point. I
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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
  
Member since 11/27/06
Posts: 112
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Posted on: 11/21/08 7:58 PM ET
Nancy,

Thanks so much. It's not as tight nor as thick as denim but I have several Schmetz Microtex 90/14s at my disposal but also have a few jeans needles from Bernina too. I was going with the 90/14 for the construction.

Thanks so much,
Matt :-)
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Matt, Spfld, IL.

P.S. Remember we still cannot make a silk purse out of a sow's ear.
  
Member since 11/5/02
Posts: 2755
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Posted on: 11/21/08 11:02 PM ET
In reply to Matt_Shaver
I vote for the 14/90 too. If you need something more stout you can go to a 16 or 18 if you have them on hand. I wouldn't waste my Microtex on this project unless it is a fiber that will require the "sharpness". Save them for when you do leather.

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Janome 6500P, Babylock Eclipse SX, Janome Coverpro 1000, Babylock BLCS, Juki 654 (2), Babylock Spirit, Juki TL2010q, Brother PE770
  
Member since 12/15/07
Posts: 559
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Posted on: 11/22/08 8:40 AM ET
Use a longer stitch when you get to the thicker parts.
  
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 947
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Posted on: 11/22/08 12:44 PM ET
For a heavier woven, I would use the Microtex 90. A universal 90 will probably be OK too, but universal is a bit like one size fits all - it isn't really the best choice for anything. A sharp needle (e.g. Microtex) is better for wovens.
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Tessa
  
Member since 6/18/08
Posts: 2609
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Posted on: 11/22/08 6:16 PM ET
You haven't told us the fiber content. If it's 100% cotton, you can go with a sharp or a jeans needle. If it's polyester or nylon, you need to use a universal -- the tip is slightly rounded so it won't try to pierce the fibers of the synthetic, causing snags.

You'll know though, as soon as you try sewing.
  
Member since 11/27/06
Posts: 112
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Posted on: 11/23/08 2:55 AM ET
Ok I looked at the end of the bolt and it's about 60% cotton and 40% polyester. I tried a 90/14 Schmetz microtex needle and my machine thumped trying to go through two thicknesses when sewing the darts. I tried a 90/14 and 100/16 jeans needle to no avail. Then I pulled out a universal 90/14 and it seems to be not thumping at all. Actually it's a 130/705 H 90/14 and it's working perfectly. I thought the jeans and microtex needle would work but going through those thicknesses it would make a thumping sound.

Did I do OK? The universal seems to do the trick actually.

Matt :-)
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Matt, Spfld, IL.

P.S. Remember we still cannot make a silk purse out of a sow's ear.
  
Member since 6/18/08
Posts: 2609
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Posted on: 11/24/08 3:38 PM ET
Universal seems to be the winner. Typically, polyester and nylon fibers cannot be pierced, so that is what is causing the thumping -- and this will potentially snag your fabric.

The Universal needle has a slightly rounded point, and it will slip between the threads rather than attempting to pierce them.

You should use a sharp with cotton, wool, and sometimes silk and rayon, especially if you want super-straight stitching. Otherwise, the Universal is your best bet.
  
Member since 12/28/04
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Posted on: 11/24/08 5:10 PM ET
In reply to Matt_Shaver
If it works it's the right needle! I was taking in the back of my dd's bathing suit, cutting and resewing on the hook. It was your usual spandex knit so of course I went with a stretch needle. Wrong! I go nothing but a birds nest of threads underneath. I changed to a larger needle. No luck. I ended up trying a size 90 microtex needle after trying several sizes and types and bingo, it worked.
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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
  
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