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Member since 6/17/04
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Posted on: 11/24/08 6:38 AM ET
I am not a total beginner, but neither am I an expert and I have no access to sewing books, so this is my only resource =).

I am working on some knit tops and I do need a FBA. I have read through some of the FBA threads and seen several times mentioned that the bust dart can be moved into the side seam (bust dart closed and then side seam redrawn). But I am not sure how exactly to do it. Are there more instructions on this anywhere? Can someone explain to me how to do it. I have rotated darts a lot, so I understand that parts - it's the part about redrawing the seam I don't quite understand. Thank you.
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Natalija from Serbia (mom to 6 daughters and 1 son)
  
Member since 9/19/06
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Posted on: 11/24/08 8:02 AM ET
I'm anxiously awaiting the answer to this too.

I don't get how you can add fullness using a dart to shape, then simply rotate that fullness out.
I understand the mechanism, I just don't understand how the fullness is retained. Seems to me it would work for someone who Didn't need an FBA and wanted to eliminate the dart, but for someone who does, I don't quite get it either.


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Marji

  
Member since 4/20/08
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Posted on: 11/24/08 8:06 AM ET
In reply to TalyQ
The Fit for Real People book gives a great illustration of this. If I remember correctly, simply cut a Vertical line from the bottom to just about the bust point. Spread this new slash until your arm dart is closed. This will cause the side to "swing out". Just retrace your side seam to fit, taking out the extra just added by opening the vertical slash. Hope this helps.
  
Member since 8/13/03
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Posted on: 11/24/08 8:10 AM ET
In reply to TalyQ
I couldn't find the one I was looking for ... but these two links should help you (thanks once again to Debbie Cook for her excellent tutorials).
Debbie Cook FBA or
Sewing Tutorials
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Machine Stable: Bernina 165, Elna Lotus TSP, Babylock Imagine, Babylock Coverstitch and my newest baby Janome 350E
  
Member since 9/19/06
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Posted on: 11/24/08 8:11 AM ET
In reply to JTink
oh, so it's just taking away the shaping and making a pattern more "square", like a mens shirt.
Well, of course that would work. Not what I imagined it to be at all then.
Thanks.

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Marji

  
Member since 8/13/03
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Posted on: 11/24/08 8:29 AM ET
In reply to Marji
I think this approach only works well with knits. You do your traditional FBA which adds the width and the length needed. You then rotate the dart to the hemline. This creates a pie shaped wedge (so you still have some additional width and length in the bust area ... just the biggest part of the pie is now in the hemline). You would then redraw your side seam from the waist area down because you don't need/want the extra fullness there.


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Machine Stable: Bernina 165, Elna Lotus TSP, Babylock Imagine, Babylock Coverstitch and my newest baby Janome 350E
  
Member since 4/11/02
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Posted on: 11/24/08 8:32 AM ET
In reply to Marji
No, you're not taking away shaping. You're keeping the original sideseam shaping by tracing it.

You've added the extra width/length needed over bust. But then you don't sew the "waist dart" right under the bust, you transfer it to the sideseam. So instead of being a true dart with the uptake sewn together under the bust, the uptake is in the sideseam ... where you can just lop it off when you finish the seam.
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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
  
Member since 9/19/06
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Posted on: 11/24/08 8:37 AM ET
In reply to Debbie Cook
I was typing at the same time that Kisha was adding the links, so didn't see your tutorial with the side seam redrawn until after I posted that.
So I was envisioning (again) just a side seam that was rotated out.

Have you tried this with a woven, or just knits?

BTW, welcome back!

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Marji

  
Member since 4/8/02
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Posted on: 11/24/08 8:37 AM ET
In reply to Debbie Cook
Hi Deb, Welcome! A lot of PR members are going to be happy to see you back. You've been very much missed.
Sue
  
Member since 7/19/03
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Posted on: 11/24/08 10:48 AM ET
I think this usually entails a curve out on the side seam (around the bust level) and then some easing of that increased length onto the back side seam, again at the bust level. I've seen it on knits. I don't think it works well for wovens. And even with knits, I think there's a limit to what you can do. Connie Crawford's dartless sloper(?) uses this.

Edited to add:
I just checked out Connie's website and noticed that she has these dartless blocks for sale. Four versions in one envelope, with one for woven (shirt style), one for wovens or knits (shirt style), one for semi-fitted knit (like a t or a turtleneck?), and one for a fitted knit (no front opening, formfitting with negative ease, evidently) It would be interesting to test these on multiple people...

I see she suggests using these with her Patternmaking textbook....so I'd guess she discusses in the book what the limitations of each style might be...


-- Edited on 11/24/08 11:02 AM --
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