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Posted on: 11/27/08 7:18 PM ET
How do you do a FBA on a blouse that just has a vertical dart? I've only done a FBA once and had no problem but the blouse had a horizontal side dart and then a vertical dart pointing to the apex. I refer to the book FFRP alot but they don't show you how to do the FBA with just a vertical dart. Can you do the usual FBA but just omit the side dart?
Posted on: 11/27/08 7:45 PM ET
In reply to halleyscomet
>>How do you do a FBA on a blouse that just has a vertical dart?
There are two types of vertical darts and the way you handle a FBA depends on which type of dart it is.
One vertical dart looks like a diamond and the other kind opens up at the hem, with the side seam swinging outwards on the bias. Which one is yours?
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There are two types of vertical darts and the way you handle a FBA depends on which type of dart it is.
One vertical dart looks like a diamond and the other kind opens up at the hem, with the side seam swinging outwards on the bias. Which one is yours?
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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 11/27/08 10:34 PM ET
When I did the FBA on this
blouse I treated the pattern as I would any shirt pattern that didn't have a vertical dart , just making sure the slashes I made didn't cut through the vertical darts and basically added the horizontal dart that wasn't there. The shirt was made with both darts, the horizontal for bust shaping and the vertical dart for shaping the waist. Although it wasn't a perfect fit it did turn out to be very wearable even though the fabric had no stretch, it's a bit more fitted than I would have liked. It was one of my early attempts at a FBA and if I make another I will spread the FBA a bit more. I did not plan to use the pockets, since I don't need the added attention in that area anyway, and it looks fine without the pockets and the added dart.
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blouse I treated the pattern as I would any shirt pattern that didn't have a vertical dart , just making sure the slashes I made didn't cut through the vertical darts and basically added the horizontal dart that wasn't there. The shirt was made with both darts, the horizontal for bust shaping and the vertical dart for shaping the waist. Although it wasn't a perfect fit it did turn out to be very wearable even though the fabric had no stretch, it's a bit more fitted than I would have liked. It was one of my early attempts at a FBA and if I make another I will spread the FBA a bit more. I did not plan to use the pockets, since I don't need the added attention in that area anyway, and it looks fine without the pockets and the added dart.
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Formerly sew*itch
Posted on: 11/28/08 7:14 AM ET
In reply to Sew4Fun
I don't know what you call it but it's the kind of dart that gets slashed up the center of the dart and then sewn together.
Posted on: 11/28/08 8:08 PM ET
In reply to halleyscomet
I would add a second dart, either a horizontal dart at the bust or a second vertical dart so that you don't end up with one very large dart.
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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
Posted on: 12/2/08 5:15 PM ET
In reply to Sew4Fun
Quote: Sew4Fun
There are two types of vertical darts and the way you handle a FBA depends on which type of dart it is.
One vertical dart looks like a diamond and the other kind opens up at the hem, with the side seam swinging outwards on the bias. Which one is yours?
There are two types of vertical darts and the way you handle a FBA depends on which type of dart it is.
One vertical dart looks like a diamond and the other kind opens up at the hem, with the side seam swinging outwards on the bias. Which one is yours?
It does?!

How does the type of vertical dart affect the FBA?
I'd love to hear how this works! :)
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Becca
My blog: rosebee.dreamwidth.org
So much fabric & patterns to fantasize about, so little time to sew!!
My blog: rosebee.dreamwidth.org
So much fabric & patterns to fantasize about, so little time to sew!!
Posted on: 12/2/08 5:32 PM ET
In reply to Rosebeee
>>How does the type of vertical dart affect the FBA? I'd love to hear how this works! :)
The diamond shape dart is a waist dart. The other kind is the bust dart rotated to the hem, combined with a waist dart. It doesn't so much affect the FBA but it is a consideration when determining where you want the increased bust dart to be.
Halleyscomet, yours is the second kind. You have a choice then. You can simply add a bust dart as Nancy suggested, or you can increase the size of the dart at the hem.
If you do the second option, it's a matter of slashing from the armhole to bust point as usual, then slashing down the middle of the dart to the hem. You swing the pattern out as you usually do making the dart at the hem a lot bigger and fill in with paper.
If you do the first option, creating a bust dart (which I would recommend) then it's the same process as the FBA you are use to. The dart at the hem will get a little bigger which is the increased waist dart. (An FBA makes both the bust dart and waist dart bigger). If you have a thicker waist then you redraw the dart making it narrower. If not then sew the bigger dart. HTH
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The diamond shape dart is a waist dart. The other kind is the bust dart rotated to the hem, combined with a waist dart. It doesn't so much affect the FBA but it is a consideration when determining where you want the increased bust dart to be.
Halleyscomet, yours is the second kind. You have a choice then. You can simply add a bust dart as Nancy suggested, or you can increase the size of the dart at the hem.
If you do the second option, it's a matter of slashing from the armhole to bust point as usual, then slashing down the middle of the dart to the hem. You swing the pattern out as you usually do making the dart at the hem a lot bigger and fill in with paper.
If you do the first option, creating a bust dart (which I would recommend) then it's the same process as the FBA you are use to. The dart at the hem will get a little bigger which is the increased waist dart. (An FBA makes both the bust dart and waist dart bigger). If you have a thicker waist then you redraw the dart making it narrower. If not then sew the bigger dart. HTH
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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/
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