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Member since 6/14/05
Posts: 49
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Posted on: 11/30/08 6:12 PM ET
Somehow I think this project may be cursed--

I finally resorted to just resizing the design a tiny bit so it would fit in the 5X7 hoop and did a test on a scrap of sweatshirt fleece which stitched out just fine--So then I moved on to the actual shirt I want it on and look what happened--

Both were stabilized with Sulky Sticky+ stabilizer, were hooped exactly the same way and were stitched with Mettler PolySheen thread--My machine is a Janome 300e--

Any ideas as to what I did wrong and how to avoid it in the future?--I've ordered another shirt to re-do it, but this is getting expensive and I'm getting discouraged--

Thanks so much--Hope that the pictures are viewable--C




-- Edited on 11/30/08 7:15 PM --
  
Member since 4/8/02
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Posted on: 11/30/08 6:22 PM ET
In reply to CandiMarie
Can't see the pictures, can you try and post them again. What is the shirt made out of? Is it sweatshirt fleece?
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www.thereisjoyadventures.blogspot.com
  
Member since 6/14/05
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Posted on: 11/30/08 7:18 PM ET
In reply to Peggy L
OK--Got the pics to post now--

Yes--Both the test and the real shirt are sweatshirt fleece--C
  
Member since 1/22/06
Posts: 1183
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Posted on: 11/30/08 7:19 PM ET
CandiMarie your pictures aren't showing up, can you describe what happened when you stitched the design?
I have a 300E also and the same thing has happened to me a couple times, and I've been embroidering for 10 years,don't get discourged, it can happen to anyone.
A few tips I've learned, most the hard way,
1-always test the design, always, and be sure to use either the same or very similar fabric as the finished item. Use the same stabilizer as well. Use the colors you plan to uise for the design as well, the "preveiw" will give you a chance to change any if you decide to.
2 Always make sure the area around the machine is clear of obstructions, and use your trace key to make sure the arm and hoop can move freely, one little bump can easily cause problems with parts of the design lining up as they should.
3 Make sure you start with a full bobbin for large designs and make sure the area under the throat plate is free from lint or any bits of thread. I usually change my needle and bobbin before I stitch the preview, and add a drop of oil before I put in the new bobbin.
4 When you have the fabric hooped and the hoop on the machine, call up your design and before you press the start button turn the handwheel and let the needle grab the bobbin thread and by hand pull it to the top of the hooped item. Now hold both threads and start the machine. Stop after a few stitches and trim the loose thread ends. I've found that this goes a long way to preventing any bird-nests of thread on the underside of the embroidery.
HTH
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Formerly sew*itch
  
Member since 12/6/03
Posts: 2758
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Posted on: 11/30/08 7:52 PM ET
In reply to CandiMarie
OK, I will venture my opinions---and remember, they are just that---IMHO!!
I agree with what Big Dog just said; however, on any design hit your "jog" button first and it will have the hoop travel you design field. That way you will see the placement, center, and be able to perceive ahead of time if there are any obstructions to your hoop.

It looks like to me that even though the sweatshirt is the same fiber content--they are not exactly the same weave, maybe thickness. The reason your outline has moved away from the main objects, (I hope you understand that term) of your design is that the density in your objects was too high and the fabric drew up with the tightness, almost likened to shrunken cotton. Your outline comes along and goes in the same place it should be, but the main part of the design has scrunched up leaving a space. That will change depending on different fabrics.

For one thing---slow your machine down to the lowest stitch speed. I do that when ever I am stitching out an outline. Don't throw out the trashed sweatshirt, bc you can do other test runs on it.
I just took my 350e in bc it seemed to be jamming. Handsome Mark, my tech told me that sometimes the sticky, whether spray or the stabilizer can cause a challenge with the needle. He said if you change the needle and clean out the bobbin and it still has a problem, it could be the sticky. We got it to finish out the design with no problem, but he kept her till tomorrow just to check her out. THIS IS YET ANOTHER EXAMPLE WHY A GREAT DEALER IS ALL PART OF PURCHASING ANY MACHINE!

I am PMing you bc there are some other things you can do to alleviate this problem. However, read it and weep honey! I trashed a designer $100 velvet dress once and had to cut it out of the machine. I was just sick!!! And, I was discouraged!!! Then I realized that every really good embroiderer trashes garments---usually more expensive than a sweatshirt, and always at the end of a long design---that is a given. So, I now dub you with the embroiderer's "Velveteen Rabbit Award", which means---don't get discouraged---you are now "REAL"!!!! If you don't try and fail---you will never become a good at embroidery bc you will be too scared to get out of your comfort zone!!
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"Sewing should be fun; make it that way!" Margaret Islander
Flying through life by the seat of my pants and hoping I get my crotch curve right.
"No humiliation is too great for a well fitting pair of pants!" Heidi Cooper
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Member since 12/3/06
Posts: 10072
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Posted on: 11/30/08 8:01 PM ET
In reply to CandiMarie
Wet N Stick Stabilizer will hold the fabric like cement - no shifting during the embroidering. Wet N Stick

This site has a great tutorials and here is one on gaping designs - Embroidery Library
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OLD CHINESE PROVERB: I HEAR & I FORGET; I SEE & I REMEMBER; I DO & I UNDERSTAND.
  
Member since 6/23/04
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Posted on: 11/30/08 8:02 PM ET
In reply to CandiMarie
>>Both were stabilized with Sulky Sticky

Things like this can happen when using a tearaway stabiliser which the Sulky Sticky is. You can get lucky sometimes with no shifting and other times not so lucky, as you have discovered.

With sweatshirt fleece I like to use a cutaway stabiliser on the wrong side and a clear washaway on the right side, creating a sandwich. I also use a special embroidery foot designed for thicker fabrics.

I hoop the cutaway, spray it temporary spray adhesive, stick the fabric down and repeat for the washaway. Then I baste in the hoop the layers together to ensure there is no shifting. Also make sure when stitching the weight of the sweathshirt is supported and not hanging off the machine bed. The weight of the sweatshirt can cause the design to shift as it's sewing. HTH and good luck on the next version.
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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
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Member since 1/22/06
Posts: 1183
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Posted on: 11/30/08 8:18 PM ET
Now I remember the design, the one you were going to split.
When you resized it did you adjust the density as well.
I don't want to bad-mouth EL but I will admit out of the designs that I've had problems with, more of them have been EL that any other company or private digitizers. Their designs just seem a little overly dense compared to others.
A couple things I have learned to do with their designs before I even test one is to adjust the density to a lower stitch count, while maintaining the original size. I usually start out at a setting of 5.0 with Embird and look to see what happens with the stitch count, somtimes I've had to go all the way to 7.0 with some parts of some designs.
I've found that by separating all colors and adjusting easy one individually I don't loose the quality of the column stitched areas particularly outlines. When I have the density adjusted and see that it looks good in the 3D preview, I save the design with a slightly altered filename, so I still have the original if my changes don't work out. After that is done I go to the edit menu and choose "edit small stitches" and enter the value of 0.8. Anything much shorter than that is smaller than the diameter of the needle to begin with and really won't be noticeable in the final design.
Then I go to the "insert" menu and add tie on/off stitches to reinsert the tie off stitched that were removed when I removed the small stitches.
Give that a try and see if that makes an improvement in the next test sample before you try again on another shirt. Use the damaged on to test the next time, it will be the same fabric as the finished version.
PM me if you have any questions and I'll do the best I can to help.
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Formerly sew*itch
  
Member since 4/8/02
Posts: 5095
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Posted on: 12/1/08 7:39 PM ET
Such great info!!! I have another question. I am getting ready to embroider a logo on a waffle weave spa wrap. How would you stabilize it? I was going to put cutaway on the back and a light washaway on top. Any better ideas or different opinions?
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Member since 1/22/06
Posts: 1183
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Posted on: 12/1/08 8:19 PM ET
In reply to Peggy L
Peggy, yes use a good cutaway, plus the water soluble on top and use some basting stiches, just slightly larger than your design itself and a second row just inside the perimeter or the hoop. This will prevent any movement of the layers.
Some pique and waffle weave fabrics, well tend to waffle, the ectra basting stiches will keep everything secure and prevent any shifting of the layers.
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Formerly sew*itch
  
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