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Member since 3/11/07
Posts: 2074
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Posted on: 12/31/08 1:57 PM ET
I bought some rayon/spandex jersey fabric, and used it as a test garment for a shirt. It turned out really nicely, I made some fitting changes, and redid the paper pattern. I made it up in a cotton/spandex jersey knit that had the same amount of spandex, and was, as far as I could tell, a superior fabric. BUT, the fashion fabric garment has bagged, bagged, and bagged. Where did I go wrong? I don't like Rayon as a basic knit, I prefer cotton. I also stay-stitched most of my seams and used elastic in the hems, but the sleeves just get baggier and baggier.
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Needle Needle Straight and Slim, Dust and Sweep the House for Him! --Grimm Fairy Tales
  
Member since 12/28/04
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Posted on: 12/31/08 2:48 PM ET
In reply to Lady_Mame
I am not sure why you staystitched, but other than that, I would assume that the quality was the issue here. How is the recovery when you pull across the fabric?
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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
  
Member since 4/8/08
Posts: 10077
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Posted on: 12/31/08 3:00 PM ET
In reply to Lady_Mame
I agree with Nancy -- recovery may well be the issue here. Having the same amount of spandex does not mean it will behave the same way.

Where did you stay-stitch? Was there a reason for putting elastic in the hem? What pattern did you use?

I use cotton/spandex fabrics frequently and differences in recovery can make a huge difference in how the finished garment hangs and how well it holds its shape.


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Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"
Stash Tally: net +46.375 yds (2014 to 2020); net +48.0 (2021); net +57.125 (2022); net +109.875 (2023)- Stash Tally 2024: 77.5 yds out/90.375 yds in (net + 12.875 yds)

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Member since 1/20/08
Posts: 1301
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Posted on: 12/31/08 3:07 PM ET
I agree that it is possibly just the fabric. I sew a lot of knits, and sometimes it is hit and miss. I have one that I love the print and it is SUPPOSED to be an Anne Klein fabric, but as the day goes on, the bodice of the dress just gets longer...and longer...and longer.
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Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/
  
Member since 4/15/07
Posts: 175
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Posted on: 12/31/08 3:59 PM ET
In reply to Lady_Mame
I have had the spandex or lycra wear out from repeated warm washings and drying in a pair of rtw jeans. And in a designer wool with 5% lycra, that recommended dry clean only, that I chose to wash and line dry. The effect of the burning out of the spandex or lycra is a loss of memory and bagging of the fabric.

If you are washing or ironing the piece on cotton settings, or too high a temperature for the spandex, it can be burned out. The result would be a loss of the "spandex" memory and the garment would then bag.
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Susanne
Fine Fabrics of Santa Barbara
FineFabrics.com
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Member since 3/11/07
Posts: 2074
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Posted on: 12/31/08 5:14 PM ET
I stay-stiched the shoulders and front panel. I didn't iron, and I washed it the way I'd wash anything of the nature.... didn't 'cook' it in the dryer at all. I think it would be odd for it be poor quality, given where I bought, but it may be.how disapointing!
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Needle Needle Straight and Slim, Dust and Sweep the House for Him! --Grimm Fairy Tales
  
Member since 4/8/08
Posts: 10077
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Posted on: 12/31/08 5:21 PM ET
In reply to Fine Fabrics
I have read and been told that lycra/spandex is very sensitive to heat and that repeated exposure causes the fabric to break down.

Personally I wash all my things with lycra/spandex in cool water and hang or lay flat to dry -- even my jeans. A quick fluff in the dryer on no heat with a damp facecloth takes away any stiffness in the denim. If needed I use my steamer on a cooler setting to get out unwanted wrinkles.


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Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"
Stash Tally: net +46.375 yds (2014 to 2020); net +48.0 (2021); net +57.125 (2022); net +109.875 (2023)- Stash Tally 2024: 77.5 yds out/90.375 yds in (net + 12.875 yds)

2025 Stash Busting:
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Member since 7/19/03
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Posted on: 12/31/08 7:05 PM ET
I wonder if the % of lycra is of lesser importance than HOW the lycra is integrated with the fabric fibers themselves, and the characteristics of the base fibers.

For instance if the rayon yarns are quite smooth and the cotton yarns are more fuzzy, that could affect the recovery from similar amounts of lycra.

Or sometimes I wonder if the lycra is integrated into the yarns as they are spun or if it added to the fibers at an earlier (or later) stage in processing the knit. It's been years since I've studied knit fabric production, so I could be all wrong here.

Anyhow, the lycra used in the fabric could have been damaged, if that is the case, during some production stage long before you or your retailer bought it... It doesn't necessarily have anything to do with how you've personally treated the fabric or the reputation of the seller. If you or the seller aren't personally ordering the fabric made to order, including the spinning of the fibers, dyeing, knitting, etc, (like from Siltex in Canada, etc) then there is always a possibility that you are being sold a product that will not perform as you wish it would. I personally think that usually it's worth the risk, $$$-wise, but sometimes we get 'losers' when we gamble this way.
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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com
  
Member since 4/8/08
Posts: 10077
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Posted on: 12/31/08 8:34 PM ET
In reply to Lady_Mame
Did you check the recovery on both pieces to see if they are comparable?


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Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"
Stash Tally: net +46.375 yds (2014 to 2020); net +48.0 (2021); net +57.125 (2022); net +109.875 (2023)- Stash Tally 2024: 77.5 yds out/90.375 yds in (net + 12.875 yds)

2025 Stash Busting:
0 yds sewn (as of 01/01/25)
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Member since 9/14/02
Posts: 2707
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Posted on: 12/31/08 8:36 PM ET
In reply to goodworks1
I have sewn a lot of cotton/lycras and they do "grow" but they should stop growing. (Usually have to re-sew the seams once or twice.) Also, all knits are different. I've noticed that heavier knits tend to have the "bagging" problem.

But a good lycra fabric really should stop growing, I would think.

I have to disagree with the comments about heat. Good cotton lycra can take ironing and drying (although the dryer will fade it fast). I have a shirt that I've been wearing for years and I've ironed it many times. I routinely iron all my cotton/lycra tops (cotton setting, lots of steam, press cloth) and have never had a problem.
-- Edited on 12/31/08 8:38 PM --
  
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