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Posted on: 5/20/09 6:28 PM ET
I am in serious need of some help!!!
I am working on a 30s style wedding gown with a heart shape cutout in the back. I am using a heavy weight silk satin back shantung. I am making my own pattern, and have had several attempts at the back pattern pcs. The problem is that the heart cutout wants to gape and doesnt hug the body. I have played around with three different practice gowns, all only partially successful.
you can see the photo gallery of the design and pattern pcs here http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLanding.action?c=2djkvi65.92bep7kl&x=0&y=95p2ll&localeid=en_US
to get a better idea. (read the titles to understand each photo)
attempt #1 i just made a regular back sloper, and cut out my heart shape. (left the back dart in) i knew this wasn't the answer but i wanted to see what happened. the heart gaped, but everything else fit the way it was supposed to.
attempt #2 i took out the back dart and made two small darts mid back that folded out some of the gape in the heart. the darts angled toward the side seams. the heart wasn't as gapey, but the side seams didnt lay flat (excess fabric created at side seams above the waist band.
attempt #3 because the idea of the dart semi-worked, i figured the problem was that it didn't taper well into the side seam, so i created one bigger dart, cut it out, which left me with two pattern pcs. when the bride tried it on, the heart was taut, but the heart was a lot smaller, and the surrounding pattern pcs didn't lay where they were supposed to.
this is what i need to figure out:
1) how to keep the heart the same size
2) how to either fix the back pattern pc so it doesnt mess up the other pattern pcs, or how to correct the other pcs to work with the adjusted back pattern
3)keep the waistband slanting down (putting the seam in the back pattern pulls up the waistband
Does this make sense? the pictures help explain what i am talking about. let me know if you cant access them.
PLEASE HELP ME!! I AM GETTING FRUSTRATED!
-- Edited on 5/20/09 6:36 PM --
-- Edited on 5/20/09 6:39 PM --
I am working on a 30s style wedding gown with a heart shape cutout in the back. I am using a heavy weight silk satin back shantung. I am making my own pattern, and have had several attempts at the back pattern pcs. The problem is that the heart cutout wants to gape and doesnt hug the body. I have played around with three different practice gowns, all only partially successful.
you can see the photo gallery of the design and pattern pcs here http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLanding.action?c=2djkvi65.92bep7kl&x=0&y=95p2ll&localeid=en_US
to get a better idea. (read the titles to understand each photo)
attempt #1 i just made a regular back sloper, and cut out my heart shape. (left the back dart in) i knew this wasn't the answer but i wanted to see what happened. the heart gaped, but everything else fit the way it was supposed to.
attempt #2 i took out the back dart and made two small darts mid back that folded out some of the gape in the heart. the darts angled toward the side seams. the heart wasn't as gapey, but the side seams didnt lay flat (excess fabric created at side seams above the waist band.
attempt #3 because the idea of the dart semi-worked, i figured the problem was that it didn't taper well into the side seam, so i created one bigger dart, cut it out, which left me with two pattern pcs. when the bride tried it on, the heart was taut, but the heart was a lot smaller, and the surrounding pattern pcs didn't lay where they were supposed to.
this is what i need to figure out:
1) how to keep the heart the same size
2) how to either fix the back pattern pc so it doesnt mess up the other pattern pcs, or how to correct the other pcs to work with the adjusted back pattern
3)keep the waistband slanting down (putting the seam in the back pattern pulls up the waistband
Does this make sense? the pictures help explain what i am talking about. let me know if you cant access them.
PLEASE HELP ME!! I AM GETTING FRUSTRATED!
-- Edited on 5/20/09 6:36 PM --
-- Edited on 5/20/09 6:39 PM --
Posted on: 5/20/09 9:31 PM ET
In reply to eviladams7
you are on the right track. But if you want to make the heart longer like you have in your drawing you might have to go down into the second part of your pattern in the back. The dress will be beautiful when you have it done. I also would do the muslin you could get a better idea on what you still need to do. Just the top. That is where the fit is the most inportant. hope this helps. 
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Do not be anxious about anything, but in everything, by prayer and petition, with thanksgiving, present your request to god. And
The peace of god, which transcends all understanding, will guard your hearts and your minds in Christ Jesus. Philippians 4:6-7
The peace of god, which transcends all understanding, will guard your hearts and your minds in Christ Jesus. Philippians 4:6-7
Posted on: 5/20/09 10:53 PM ET
Here's the link to your photo slideshow: Dress photos
Hope someone can help. I agree, the dress will be stunning.
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Hope someone can help. I agree, the dress will be stunning.
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"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." --Abraham Lincoln
Posted on: 5/20/09 11:20 PM ET
First, I'd try to get the back to fit very snugly without any waist darts. My inclination is to take the dart out of the center back waist (not the sides). This means that your center back seam is not straight (and angles toward the side). This addresses the loose back issue. Now cut out the heart shape.
Posted on: 5/22/09 0:14 AM ET
In reply to skae
i might just have to do that (take the heart into the waist band), or settle for a smaller heart:(
tomorrow I am making 2 more practice tops... wish me luck!
tomorrow I am making 2 more practice tops... wish me luck!
Posted on: 5/22/09 0:19 AM ET
In reply to Irene
Are you saying to put the darts vertically in the back panels,(where they would normally be) or to take them out completely? im not sure i follow...
The problem is that the gape occurs EXACTLY where I have the diagonal seam right now, which falls in the curve of the back. I tried putting the dart in other places with no success.....
The problem is that the gape occurs EXACTLY where I have the diagonal seam right now, which falls in the curve of the back. I tried putting the dart in other places with no success.....
Posted on: 5/22/09 3:27 AM ET
In reply to eviladams7
Quote: eviladams7
Are you saying to put the darts vertically in the back panels,(where they would normally be) or to take them out completely? im not sure i follow...
The problem is that the gape occurs EXACTLY where I have the diagonal seam right now, which falls in the curve of the back. I tried putting the dart in other places with no success.....
Are you saying to put the darts vertically in the back panels,(where they would normally be) or to take them out completely? im not sure i follow...
The problem is that the gape occurs EXACTLY where I have the diagonal seam right now, which falls in the curve of the back. I tried putting the dart in other places with no success.....
In a normal bodice (without a big hole in it), you need the back darts so that there is ease behind the shoulder blades (between the amscyes). The dart removes this fullness in the waist. (This is the original bodice dart, not the heart with a dart.)
In your dress, you don't much less (or no) ease between the shoulder blades because the hole will allow for arm movement. You're getting gaping because the heart shape is being cut out of the bodice that still has ease, then when you put darts into the heart, things still don't fit well.
So: get rid of the original dart. One way to try this out would be to make a muslin from the original bodice, don't sew the darts, and just pin the back together on the bride so that the bodice fits fairly snugly. The center back should have a very large seam allowance, and the center back line will curve in at the waist. Decide how much "waist band" you want to have. Now cut out the heart so that it doesn't run into the waist band (unless you want to change your design).
Please note: I may be overlooking something, but if you can follow the logic, I hope this is helpful.
Posted on: 5/23/09 10:43 PM ET
In reply to eviladams7
I know this would be "cheating", but have you considered using the type of nearly invisible fabric (illusion?) that is often used in skating costumes to fill in the heart shaped opening? That way you could fit the bodice in the usual way and not be concerned about the back gaping, and if it were skin colored it would hardly be noticeable.
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Brine
Posted on: 9/28/09 11:04 PM ET
so its finally finished! i will post pics soon!
Posted on: 4/10/10 4:11 PM ET
I forgot to post pics!
Thank you everyone for your advice and help. This was a hard project for me but very rewarding. Great bride to work for/with too!
The dress can be viewed at:
shanel regier facebook
Thank you everyone for your advice and help. This was a hard project for me but very rewarding. Great bride to work for/with too!
The dress can be viewed at:
shanel regier facebook
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