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Member since 1/27/09
Posts: 428
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Posted on: 7/8/09 3:06 PM ET
One of my customers designs and makes jackets and such for girls who do horse shows. The body fabric varies from jacket to jacket, but the thing is always the same. She airbrush/paints ultra suede and cuts it out into designs that are then glued to the jacket and part of my job is to go around all these designs and stitch them down so they don't peel up. Each design is two layers of ultra suede, usually painted layered on top of the base fabric. What I run into with every single jacket that I work on is what seems like endless skipped stitches while trying to tack these designs down.
Today's vest:




What can I do to avoid this issue, because it is starting to absolutely drive me crazy? I am using a 16 leather needle, a teflon foot on the machine and have also tried jean needles, microtex needles and any other needle I thought might work. Suggestions?


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Member since 12/28/07
Posts: 20238
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Posted on: 7/8/09 4:41 PM ET
I had the same problem with the military badges on my DH uniforms..even if I appliqued..try going over them twice or fill in by hand which I did..yes it was..well...boring..
  
Member since 9/18/04
Posts: 2373
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Posted on: 7/8/09 8:05 PM ET
Have you tried topstitch needles? (I apologize in advance if you've already tried them, and it hasn't helped.)

I am under the impression that topstitch needles have a larger scarf (the "cutout" on the back of the needle), but, of course, now that I go looking for confirmation of that info on the internet, I can't find it. I did confirm that the smaller the needle scarf, the more precisely the sewing machine needs to be timed for the hook the "grab" the needle thread and pull it around the bobbin to form the lock stitch. It looks like that is what's happening to you: the hook is not catching the needle thread and the machine is skipping stitches.

On the opposite of that, if the needle scarf is lager, then the timing can be more "sloppy" (less precise) and the stitch will still be formed.

I've seen some wonderful charts that have close-up photos of needles, both front and side, and you can really see what the differences are: sharper points, different shapes to the points, different sized grooves, and different size scarfs. Those charts are quite informative, but I can't seem to locate one on the internet (! ! ! apparently it's a military secret or something ! ! !). I do know (and did confirm) that topstitch needles have sharper points for piercing through multiple layers when doing decorative topstitching, and I confirmed that they have a deeper groove in the front to carry heavier topstitching thread. I'm pretty sure they also have a bigger scarf.

At any rate, I'd try a needle with a larger scarf, whether it's a topstitch needle or some other type.

CMC
  
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Member since 4/8/07
Posts: 2911
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Posted on: 7/8/09 8:46 PM ET
In reply to Cisa
Have you tried to lengthen the stitch? I don't know much about thread weights, but perhaps using a lighter weight thread in the bobbin might help.
  
Member since 7/19/03
Posts: 3916
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Posted on: 7/8/09 10:56 PM ET
In reply to Cisa
I think I'd try a larger/longer needle size.

The denim/jeans and leather needles come in the 110/18 size, but the leather needle description specifically says it is not for synthetics or knits (I assume this is because it will cut the knit and maybe start a run?)

The universal needle comes as larger as 120, so that might be another option.

I got my info here
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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com
  
Member since 7/25/08
Posts: 11055
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Posted on: 7/9/09 8:55 AM ET
I have had the same problem with general sewing appliques. It seems the glue on some bonding materials sticks to the needles. Is there a general Needle rule for this? I tried to re-inforce some RTW velcro with stitching on kids' slippers and found it had glue on that gummed up the various needles I tried.
I have an old machine and would like to do some zizag on applique that turns out even!
  
Member since 1/27/09
Posts: 428
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Posted on: 7/9/09 9:32 AM ET
Thanks for all of your suggestions. I'll see about picking up some topstitching needles and trying that out next time. When I got to the point that, no matter the tension, needle or stitch length I couldn't even get the machine to sew through one layer of thin leather and a layer of lining the decision was made by the woman I do work for (who's machine it is) that it was time for a tune up. I'm truly hoping that it helps because other than a magical topstitching needle or an industrial machine (which I hope to be able to afford next year) I don't see how this project is going to work. Thanks again for all your input.
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Member since 2/27/07
Posts: 506
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Posted on: 7/9/09 11:08 AM ET
Not that it's any consolation, but your machine is skipping stitches because of a timing issue.

The needle is working so hard to push through all those layers of tough fabric that by the time the it gets fully down. it's too late to engage the bobbin thread, hence the skipped stitch.

I'm wondering if perhaps the problem is the glue being used to tack these to the base garment before you stitch them - it could be really hard, or really sticky, causing your needle to drag.

Is is possible to try keeping the glue away from the edges where you are going to stitch? Seems to me that the glue's only purpose is to hold the applique in place while you permanently stitch it down.

Good luck, in any case. It sounds like a real bear of a project!
  
Member since 7/19/03
Posts: 3916
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Posted on: 7/10/09 10:26 AM ET
In reply to Cisa
While looking for something else I found a few more resources:
Thread breakage and stitch skipping

Kathleen F's post on her site

Part 2 of K Fasanella's info

You'll find more links to needle and thread manufacturers in Kathleen's posts.

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Does the skipping start immediately when you start a new project with a new needle? Or does it work fine for a while and then start? If so, I'd guess there's something building up on your needle; maybe glue or some residue from the applique fabric?
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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com
  
Member since 1/23/06
Posts: 6190
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Posted on: 7/16/09 7:36 AM ET
Can your client take samples of the applique fabrics layered on the fashion fabric to the machine tech to have him "get it right"?
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