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What does this tailoring term mean? (Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952)
Posted on: 7/14/09 10:55 PM ET
I have two tailoring books (by Hostek and Poulin) that describe a pressing operation near the end of construction. Both suggest placing a sleeve board into the armscye from the inside with the underarm sleeve up and the body of the jacket resting on the board. I believe they are telling me to press the armscye seam allowance at the underarm towards the sleeve, creasing it in place.
The only other book (I have several) that comes near this (Ledbetter) says that the two options are to 1) trim the underarm seam, zigzag it, then let it stand, and 2) clip the seam allowance about every inch and to press the seam allowance on either side down.
Does anyone know what's being described here? Do they mean what I think they mean? If you don't clip the SAs, how do you press the SA to the sleeve as Poulin and Hostek suggest?
TIA.
The only other book (I have several) that comes near this (Ledbetter) says that the two options are to 1) trim the underarm seam, zigzag it, then let it stand, and 2) clip the seam allowance about every inch and to press the seam allowance on either side down.
Does anyone know what's being described here? Do they mean what I think they mean? If you don't clip the SAs, how do you press the SA to the sleeve as Poulin and Hostek suggest?
TIA.
Posted on: 7/14/09 11:25 PM ET
In reply to Tom P
The only instructions I've ever seen, and admittedly I am talking tailoring for women, is to trim the underarm to 1/4 ' and let it stand in the underarm, pressing the seam as sewn, but not into the sleeve and unless it is a very ravelly material I wouldn't finish the seam as I assume you are lining the jacket. I have not read the books you are referring to so I can't give you a more informed opinion.
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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
Posted on: 7/15/09 0:16 AM ET
In reply to Tom P
Quote: Tom P
... Both suggest placing a sleeve board into the armscye from the inside with the underarm sleeve up and the body of the jacket resting on the board. I believe they are telling me to press the armscye seam allowance at the underarm towards the sleeve, creasing it in place.
The only other book (I have several) that comes near this (Ledbetter) says that the two options are to 1) trim the underarm seam, zigzag it, then let it stand, and 2) clip the seam allowance about every inch and to press the seam allowance on either side down.
Does anyone know what's being described here? Do they mean what I think they mean? If you don't clip the SAs, how do you press the SA to the sleeve as Poulin and Hostek suggest?
TIA.
... Both suggest placing a sleeve board into the armscye from the inside with the underarm sleeve up and the body of the jacket resting on the board. I believe they are telling me to press the armscye seam allowance at the underarm towards the sleeve, creasing it in place.
The only other book (I have several) that comes near this (Ledbetter) says that the two options are to 1) trim the underarm seam, zigzag it, then let it stand, and 2) clip the seam allowance about every inch and to press the seam allowance on either side down.
Does anyone know what's being described here? Do they mean what I think they mean? If you don't clip the SAs, how do you press the SA to the sleeve as Poulin and Hostek suggest?
TIA.
Tom,
I believe that what is being described is ...
1. to press the armscye seam allowance at the underarm towards the sleeve (using the sleeve board as you describe) ... *but* do not crease it in place; and then
2. to "crack" the underarm seam (after pressing). Cracking means to stretch the underarm sewn seam until the thread breaks at one or more places (i.e. cracks), and then
3. to resew the underarm seam, with no attempt to re-gather or re-place the cracked portions of the original underarm seam back to their original configuration. (Don't be afraid to get 'manly' with the tugging and stretching of the originally sewn underarm seam.)
This procedure should allow your pressed underarm seam allowance to 'lie' within the sleeve, in accordance with the designed shape of the jacket pattern, without you having to trim or clip, and without you having to crease your pressed seam allowances in place. Old fashioned procedure that, I find, works beautifully and if the pattern is properly drawn, will provide long lasting perfect structure to the hang and integrity of your jacket sleeve.
[If, however, after cracking and resewing your underarm seam, you find that the seam allowance will not conform nicely without causing underarm wrinkles or bumps, then resort back to #1 or #2 method that you list in your 2nd paragraph. With a well drawn pattern, however, the press, crack and resew method should produce a perfect sleeve.] HTH, Lily
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Lily
Posted on: 7/15/09 9:47 AM ET
In reply to Tom P
The only 'cracking' of a seam I've ever heard of and done is a crotch seam in pants. We did it in the Joyce Murphy pants workshop. If I remember correctly, we pressed the seam open, then proceeded as Lily described to crack and resew.
We did not clip the crotch seam, as that would weaken it. I'm not sure I would want to clip an underarm seam, especially on the back part. Same stress & tension would weaken it.
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We did not clip the crotch seam, as that would weaken it. I'm not sure I would want to clip an underarm seam, especially on the back part. Same stress & tension would weaken it.
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iPad's auto-correct is my enema.
Posted on: 7/15/09 4:08 PM ET
In reply to lilyofthevalley
Thanks for the replies.
Poulin writes the following:
To crease the sleeve, turn the coat inside out, placing the end of the sleeveboard in the armhole so that the 'armpit' area of the coat body is uppermost. Press all around the lower half of the armhole in this way, creasing it in the seam against the body of the coat.
Hostek goes into more detail, and actually uses the word 'crack':
231. Crack armscye. The armscye should be creased on the outside seam from the inside. Start a couple of inches down the front from the shoulder, continue underneath and up the back to where the elbow seam of the sleeve enters the armscye.
Double the press rag and avoid too much water.
Be very careful fitting the armscye on the buck so as not to stretch it out of shape.
A narrow buck should be used to help preserve the shape.
The front part to the underarm and the back part from the elbow seam of the sleeve are handled differently in that the front is folded where sleeve lining is felled, doubling the outside seam back on the stitching line, and the back is folded where the edge of the seam can be felt (usually 1/4in. from where the sleeve lining is felled). The change ocurs at the bottom-center of the armscye.
I also have a thrift store Hickey Freeman coat with some hand work on the lining, that has a 1/4in SA that stands upright at the underarm.
I'm sure Misters Poulin and Hostek meant something very important, but I'm afraid it's not coming across to me perfectly clearly.
Poulin writes the following:
To crease the sleeve, turn the coat inside out, placing the end of the sleeveboard in the armhole so that the 'armpit' area of the coat body is uppermost. Press all around the lower half of the armhole in this way, creasing it in the seam against the body of the coat.
Hostek goes into more detail, and actually uses the word 'crack':
231. Crack armscye. The armscye should be creased on the outside seam from the inside. Start a couple of inches down the front from the shoulder, continue underneath and up the back to where the elbow seam of the sleeve enters the armscye.
Double the press rag and avoid too much water.
Be very careful fitting the armscye on the buck so as not to stretch it out of shape.
A narrow buck should be used to help preserve the shape.
The front part to the underarm and the back part from the elbow seam of the sleeve are handled differently in that the front is folded where sleeve lining is felled, doubling the outside seam back on the stitching line, and the back is folded where the edge of the seam can be felt (usually 1/4in. from where the sleeve lining is felled). The change ocurs at the bottom-center of the armscye.
I also have a thrift store Hickey Freeman coat with some hand work on the lining, that has a 1/4in SA that stands upright at the underarm.
I'm sure Misters Poulin and Hostek meant something very important, but I'm afraid it's not coming across to me perfectly clearly.
Posted on: 7/15/09 5:33 PM ET
In reply to Tom P
Tom P, I would email Judy Barlup at Unique Techniques, her website. She was quite helpful to me with a lining question I had earlier this year. She even phoned me to clarify her explanation -- nice! Her specialty is tailoring AND she sells the Hostek book. Good luck!
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Patti
R-r-r-ripping my way to fitting success
R-r-r-ripping my way to fitting success
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