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Moderated by Deepika
Posted on: 8/26/09 3:15 AM ET
Hi,
This summer I have made two dresses in knits, one in onionsilk from EOS and one in a sweater knit.
I am hooked on knits from now on.
So-- the plan is to buy several knits in order to make about 10 skirts. Yes. 10 skirts would be lovely. I am going to copy a RTW skirt I have got. It is very simple really, just an A-line skirt cut on the bias with an elastic waist.
What do you think - should I buy fabrics with the same stretch lengthwise and crosswise? If the stretch is very different in the two directions, do you think it will matter much? On my RTW skirt I think the stretch is a little bit different in the two directions.
This summer I have made two dresses in knits, one in onionsilk from EOS and one in a sweater knit.
I am hooked on knits from now on.
So-- the plan is to buy several knits in order to make about 10 skirts. Yes. 10 skirts would be lovely. I am going to copy a RTW skirt I have got. It is very simple really, just an A-line skirt cut on the bias with an elastic waist.
What do you think - should I buy fabrics with the same stretch lengthwise and crosswise? If the stretch is very different in the two directions, do you think it will matter much? On my RTW skirt I think the stretch is a little bit different in the two directions.
Posted on: 8/26/09 7:19 AM ET
In reply to Marie Norway
In most knits there is very little difference in drape when you cut it on the bias. The most stretch is usually in the crossgrain, and imop it is only useful to cut knits on the bias if there is a pattern that you want to run that way. Is this skirt knit or woven that you want to copy? You can change the grain when you cut it.
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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
Posted on: 8/26/09 8:14 AM ET
Hello, Nancy.
Thank you for being so helpful (always!).
My RTW skirt is made in matte jersey. It is cut on the bias. As it is also an A-line skirt, it swings out a little bit at the hem, more so than an ongrain-skirt. I find this a nice detail..
What I am planning to do is to buy many printed knits. I suppose some will be better looking (print-wise I mean) on the bias and some on the grain and I will cut according to that.
I have not got much experience with knits, but I do think it is possible to spot a difference in drape when cutting on the bias, that's why I am wondering about the stretch.
So after what I understand from your post it is ok (but maybe not interesting!) to cut a one-way stretch on the bias?
With one-way stretch I mean stretch in the crossgrain only and my concern about this is that with time the skirt might sag as the maximum stretch will be on the bias.
I hope I make myself clear. :)
-- Edited on 8/26/09 8:17 AM --
-- Edited on 8/26/09 8:18 AM --
Thank you for being so helpful (always!).
My RTW skirt is made in matte jersey. It is cut on the bias. As it is also an A-line skirt, it swings out a little bit at the hem, more so than an ongrain-skirt. I find this a nice detail..
What I am planning to do is to buy many printed knits. I suppose some will be better looking (print-wise I mean) on the bias and some on the grain and I will cut according to that.
I have not got much experience with knits, but I do think it is possible to spot a difference in drape when cutting on the bias, that's why I am wondering about the stretch.
So after what I understand from your post it is ok (but maybe not interesting!) to cut a one-way stretch on the bias?
With one-way stretch I mean stretch in the crossgrain only and my concern about this is that with time the skirt might sag as the maximum stretch will be on the bias.
I hope I make myself clear. :)
-- Edited on 8/26/09 8:17 AM --
-- Edited on 8/26/09 8:18 AM --
Posted on: 8/26/09 3:40 PM ET
In reply to Marie Norway
All bias cuts sag, at least woven ones do. That's why you hang them before you hem. Matte jersey is different from knits with lycra and it is much heavier than most knits. I have found that knits that have lycra will stretch in both directions and you can cut them either way. The larger the item you are sewing the more it will sag. I don't know if you will get more drape with matter jersey if you cut it on the bias or not. I have not done this. It has quite a lot of drape regardless because that is the nature of the fabric. You need a lot more fabric to cut on the bias, and I just don't know if it is worth the cost with most things. The only way to find out is to just do it and see if you like it.
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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
Posted on: 8/27/09 3:09 AM ET
In reply to Nancy K
Thank you again, Nancy!
Yes, maybe the thing is to try it out with a fabric or two first:)
Yes, maybe the thing is to try it out with a fabric or two first:)
Posted on: 8/27/09 11:39 AM ET
My two very little cents: Perhaps take you fabric and drape it on the bias to see what you think of it. I know it isn't cut, so it won't be the same, but it might give you an idea. Measure it and leave it there for a day or two to see if it stretches evenly.
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With a great wardrobe that's still in the flat-fabric stage.
Posted on: 8/28/09 3:11 PM ET
In reply to AnneM
Thank you, Anne! When I think of it I should hang up the pieces before sewing them anyway, so I could always see what happens before cutting.
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Posted on: 8/28/09 3:32 PM ET
One of the ladies in my American Sewing Guild group attended the ASG annual conference earlier this summer. One of the speakers was a pattern designer who creates patterns for bias garments. I can't remember the name, website nor was I able to find something on google. But what I do remember is that this particular designer said that you don't cut knits on the bias. I'm sure it's nothing set in stone, though.
ETA: It was Julianne Bramsom and her site is Fashion in Harmony.
-- Edited on 8/28/09 4:39 PM --
ETA: It was Julianne Bramsom and her site is Fashion in Harmony.
-- Edited on 8/28/09 4:39 PM --
Posted on: 8/28/09 10:25 PM ET
In reply to Marie Norway
And remember that you can hasten the stretching thing by imitating gravity yourself, as Marcy Tilton does:
"To prevent bias-cut garments from continuing to stretch as they're worn, it helps to press each pattern section to remove some of the stretch before construction. Pressing simulates the effect of gravity and results in a more stable garment. This step is a lifesaver when working with silky, gauzy, or loosely woven fabrics.
After cutting the fabric and removing the pattern, press each piece firmly, gently, and evenly from top to bottom. Now repin the pattern onto the fabric, adjusting seamlines if the piece has grown smaller."
(http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00007_p3.asp)
-- Edited on 8/28/09 10:27 PM --
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"To prevent bias-cut garments from continuing to stretch as they're worn, it helps to press each pattern section to remove some of the stretch before construction. Pressing simulates the effect of gravity and results in a more stable garment. This step is a lifesaver when working with silky, gauzy, or loosely woven fabrics.
After cutting the fabric and removing the pattern, press each piece firmly, gently, and evenly from top to bottom. Now repin the pattern onto the fabric, adjusting seamlines if the piece has grown smaller."
(http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00007_p3.asp)
-- Edited on 8/28/09 10:27 PM --
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Elona
Posted on: 8/28/09 11:22 PM ET
I find this thread very interesting, and ladies, I have a question for you:
I have 2 beautiful panels of 100% silk jersey, meaning it has natural stretch in the width, but not lengthwise (and no lycra of course). I'd like to use the panels on bias 'cause it has this handkerchief effect and it's beautiful. Now, when I put the fabric on me on bias and pull on it horizontally, one side stretches much more that the other side. Anyone has ever worked with silk jersey on bias? What is your opinion/experience about that?
Thanks
I have 2 beautiful panels of 100% silk jersey, meaning it has natural stretch in the width, but not lengthwise (and no lycra of course). I'd like to use the panels on bias 'cause it has this handkerchief effect and it's beautiful. Now, when I put the fabric on me on bias and pull on it horizontally, one side stretches much more that the other side. Anyone has ever worked with silk jersey on bias? What is your opinion/experience about that?
Thanks
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