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Bulk created by twill tape (Moderated by Deepika)
Posted on: 8/29/09 8:57 PM ET
In her book Power Sewing, Sandra Betzine recommends stabilizing those seams prone to stretching such as V-necklines and roll lines with twill tape or selvages from thin woven fabrics. What she doesn't address is how this extra layer affects "turning the cloth."
I've just tried her tip by using the selvage of polyester lining to stabilize the v-neck of a lined knit top. (I tried the twill tape first but it was too heavy and caused the fabric to pucker.) It created a nice, stable v-neck line, but I had a terrible time turning the cloth with this extra layer. I used mesh fabric to line the top, and when I tried to turn that to the left side, I fiddled forever to create a sharp edge. The strip of lining (twill tape) created bulk that I couldn't press out. It finally turned out okay, but it seems that I am not using this technique correctly.
How do users of this forum stabilize those stretchy edges?
Claudia
-- Edited on 8/29/09 8:58 PM --
I've just tried her tip by using the selvage of polyester lining to stabilize the v-neck of a lined knit top. (I tried the twill tape first but it was too heavy and caused the fabric to pucker.) It created a nice, stable v-neck line, but I had a terrible time turning the cloth with this extra layer. I used mesh fabric to line the top, and when I tried to turn that to the left side, I fiddled forever to create a sharp edge. The strip of lining (twill tape) created bulk that I couldn't press out. It finally turned out okay, but it seems that I am not using this technique correctly.
How do users of this forum stabilize those stretchy edges?
Claudia
-- Edited on 8/29/09 8:58 PM --
Posted on: 8/29/09 9:29 PM ET
Online store selling different fusible stay tapes.
I use this kind of tape all the time - mostly a product by Japan Vilene. There are several other brands around, but I'm not familiar with them.
I have only seen the woven or knit types of tape. Roughly, these are:
Straight tape - for shoulders and waistbands, also for areas where you want a firmly defined edge, even if not cut on the straight grain. (Collarless V necks, seam allowance of hip area to help them lie smoothly, pocket tops, edge of trouser pocket etc etc) Betzina says she now prefers selvedge or twill tape for waistbands, shoulders, and crotch seams for extra strength. I haven't found strength to be a problem, but selvedge/twill will be a bit softer on the skin.
Half-bias - this is very useful on curved or bias seams where you want some strength (curved neckline, scoop pocket etc.)
Bias - where you want to preserve stretch while adding strength (e.g. armscye).
Knit - especially for stabilizing lightweight knit fabrics where you don't want to affect the drape.
Perforated - I haven't used this...the idea is that you stitch down the perforated line in the middle. Where you want to fold, as with your neck/collar, this might be the answer?
-- Edited on 8/29/09 9:31 PM --
I use this kind of tape all the time - mostly a product by Japan Vilene. There are several other brands around, but I'm not familiar with them.
I have only seen the woven or knit types of tape. Roughly, these are:
Straight tape - for shoulders and waistbands, also for areas where you want a firmly defined edge, even if not cut on the straight grain. (Collarless V necks, seam allowance of hip area to help them lie smoothly, pocket tops, edge of trouser pocket etc etc) Betzina says she now prefers selvedge or twill tape for waistbands, shoulders, and crotch seams for extra strength. I haven't found strength to be a problem, but selvedge/twill will be a bit softer on the skin.
Half-bias - this is very useful on curved or bias seams where you want some strength (curved neckline, scoop pocket etc.)
Bias - where you want to preserve stretch while adding strength (e.g. armscye).
Knit - especially for stabilizing lightweight knit fabrics where you don't want to affect the drape.
Perforated - I haven't used this...the idea is that you stitch down the perforated line in the middle. Where you want to fold, as with your neck/collar, this might be the answer?
-- Edited on 8/29/09 9:31 PM --
Posted on: 8/29/09 9:32 PM ET
In reply to purplebouquet
Fusible tapes are a great help. They are like narrow strips of lightweight fusible interfacing and while you could cut those yourself the tape on the roll is so much easier to work with, IMHO.
Judy Barlup has these tapes at her Unique Techniques website. I have ordered from her and the service is excellent. NAYY She has a free pdf download on her site about stabilizing gaping necklines which shows exactly where and how to place the tape.
I have used strips of organza, etc. to stabilize edges and I sew the strip to the fabric just inside the fold line of the garment edge. The eased part rolls to the underside. There is still a little bulk to deal with though and I don't think I would do this on knits. Some people use clear elastic to stabilize knit edges but I hate working with clear elastic.
ETA I just saw Dotmoll's post. Some of the L.J. Design tapes listed at Vogue Fabrics shrink horribly so they need to be pre shrunk by shooting them with steam. thesewingplace.com also sells the L.J. Design products.
-- Edited on 8/29/09 9:40 PM --
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Judy Barlup has these tapes at her Unique Techniques website. I have ordered from her and the service is excellent. NAYY She has a free pdf download on her site about stabilizing gaping necklines which shows exactly where and how to place the tape.
I have used strips of organza, etc. to stabilize edges and I sew the strip to the fabric just inside the fold line of the garment edge. The eased part rolls to the underside. There is still a little bulk to deal with though and I don't think I would do this on knits. Some people use clear elastic to stabilize knit edges but I hate working with clear elastic.
ETA I just saw Dotmoll's post. Some of the L.J. Design tapes listed at Vogue Fabrics shrink horribly so they need to be pre shrunk by shooting them with steam. thesewingplace.com also sells the L.J. Design products.
-- Edited on 8/29/09 9:40 PM --
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Liz
thefittinglife.blogspot.com
thefittinglife.blogspot.com
Posted on: 9/2/09 10:23 AM ET
Thank you. I have used the LJ Design fusible tapes, but they proved too lightweight to stabilize a v-neckline. (Good for other uses, though.) So I thought stronger stuff like twill tape would be the way to go. But I've tried it on several projects now and am not thrilled with it.
So am glad to know other sewers use fusible interfacing of some sort successfully.
Recently, I purchased a high-quality fusible interfacing that is lightweight yet seems very stable. I think I'll cut some strips across with either my rotary cutter or my serger to make my own tape and try that.
Claudia
So am glad to know other sewers use fusible interfacing of some sort successfully.
Recently, I purchased a high-quality fusible interfacing that is lightweight yet seems very stable. I think I'll cut some strips across with either my rotary cutter or my serger to make my own tape and try that.
Claudia
Posted on: 9/2/09 12:16 PM ET
Clear elastic is great, too.
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JanieV
Posted on: 9/2/09 1:41 PM ET
In reply to purplebouquet
Quote:
I've just tried her tip by using the selvage of polyester lining to stabilize the v-neck of a lined knit top.
I've just tried her tip by using the selvage of polyester lining to stabilize the v-neck of a lined knit top.
The polyester alone may be the culprit. I always save the selvages from Ambiance rayon lining, and recycle them as stay tapes for pockets, necklines, etc. It's not as stiff and will take a press better.
For a v-neck knit top, you could even cut strips of fusible lightweight knit interfacing on the length-of-grain and use it as a stabilizer, in a pinch. I've done that before.
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iPad's auto-correct is my enema.
Posted on: 9/2/09 3:21 PM ET
I like to cut my own strips either straight or on the bias from tricot interfacing for thin knits. For thicker fabrics I use tricot stay tape on a roll.
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My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.
Posted on: 9/2/09 3:40 PM ET
what width of twill tape were you using? I just used some on the v-back of my wedding gown and when I got it (in person at F&S in L.A.) there were multiple options of widths. The 1/4" was a lot thinner and .. plyable? but still very strong along the length of the tape. The 5/8" (which I thought would be the "proper" twill tape) was way too thick and heavy. I believe they also had some even narrower than 1/4".
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