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Posted on: 9/2/09 7:49 PM ET
Hi, I wonder if someone can give me some advice. I just finished making some shorts from Simplicity 3839
The fit is absolutely perfect. I'd like to make some full length pants. Should I just extend the seam line or do I need to factor in the motion of my knees as I walk and sit?
Cute capris
-- Edited on 9/2/09 7:52 PM --
The fit is absolutely perfect. I'd like to make some full length pants. Should I just extend the seam line or do I need to factor in the motion of my knees as I walk and sit?
Cute capris
-- Edited on 9/2/09 7:52 PM --
Posted on: 9/2/09 9:04 PM ET
In reply to marec
Is the long view different than the shorts view, or do you just cut the pattern tissue at a different place on the same pattern pieces? If so then that's your answer. If not, I'd overlay the shorts pattern pieces over the long pants pattern pieces compare, then morph them together if needed. You can just ignore the casing at the bottom of the long pants.
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Now blogging at http://sewwest.blogspot.com
Posted on: 9/2/09 9:08 PM ET
Your knee isn't as much a factor as the hem. How wide do you want it? Do you like how narrow it is at the thigh/knee? What you do is if you like the shape around the thigh/knee, then decide how wide you want the hem to be. Then what I'd do is trace out the pattern, leaving lots of room to draw the rest of the leg length. Then using a yardstick, continue the lines down as long as you want the pants to be plus hem on both the front and back. Then measure how wide the hem is in both the front and back. Subtract this amount from the total you want at the hem. Take that number and divide it in fourths. Mark this amount at both the inseam and outseam on front and back patterns at the full length hem. Then from somewhere near the knee (if you like the current width at the knee) draw a line down to the mark you made at the hem making sure there is a pleasing transition where the line changes direction. There, you should have successfully made your capris pattern into a long pants pattern. If you think the knee may be too narrow for long pants then widen at the knee before doing the lengthening and then follow the same directions.
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Visit my blog at http://sewingsaga.blogspot.com
If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL
If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL
Posted on: 9/2/09 9:09 PM ET
Oh, silly me. I didn't notice the pattern already had a long pants pattern included.
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Visit my blog at http://sewingsaga.blogspot.com
If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL
If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL
Posted on: 9/3/09 0:16 AM ET
In reply to NancyDaQ
Thanks nanflan...that is what I thought would work. I'm going to try with some recycled fabric and see what happens. It's amazing that the fit is so good on this pattern. I think it is the fact that the waistband is lower.
Posted on: 9/3/09 0:23 AM ET
In reply to Sherril Miller
Sherril-thanks so much! I know there is the other longer pant but I think it's "poofier". I don't know-I'm a little tired from our weather today with wind gusts of 40mph and steady at 35. Anyway, your explanation makes perfect sense until I read:
Could you tell me why I'm dividing that number in fourths? Is this giving me the width at the hem?
You teach math, don't you?
Quote:
Take that number and divide it in fourths. Mark this amount at both the inseam and outseam on front and back patterns at the full length hem. Then from somewhere near the knee (if you like the current width at the knee) draw a line down to the mark you made at the hem making sure there is a pleasing transition where the line changes direction.
Take that number and divide it in fourths. Mark this amount at both the inseam and outseam on front and back patterns at the full length hem. Then from somewhere near the knee (if you like the current width at the knee) draw a line down to the mark you made at the hem making sure there is a pleasing transition where the line changes direction.
Could you tell me why I'm dividing that number in fourths? Is this giving me the width at the hem?
You teach math, don't you?
Posted on: 9/3/09 0:34 AM ET
In reply to marec
You divide it in fourths because 1/4 gets added to the side of each seam. One quarter to the front inseam, one quarter to the back inseam, one quarter to the front outside seam, one quarter to the back outside seam. If you divide this number by fourths and add that amount to the pattern hem, then you can keep the scale of the original pants, be it if the back leg pattern is wider or narrower than the front, it still will be that way after the alteration.
Let me know if you want me to try to draw something up. I can't do Debbie's magic crayon, but I can use a pencil and paper and photo my drawing for you.
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Let me know if you want me to try to draw something up. I can't do Debbie's magic crayon, but I can use a pencil and paper and photo my drawing for you.
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Visit my blog at http://sewingsaga.blogspot.com
If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL
If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL
Posted on: 9/3/09 6:54 AM ET
In reply to Sherril Miller
Sherrill,
Any chance you can photo your drawing to this post?
Would really appreciated seeing a drawing of this!
Thanks so much.
Woggy
Any chance you can photo your drawing to this post?
Would really appreciated seeing a drawing of this!
Thanks so much.
Woggy
Posted on: 9/3/09 11:29 AM ET
In reply to Sherril Miller
ahhh, now I get it, I think. This is keeping the scale correct so the pants don't bell out in an odd way. Thanks Sherril.
Posted on: 9/4/09 1:44 AM ET
I went ahead and drew the alteration out. In my example, after lengthening the pants to the finished length I want, the hem circumference was 17". That was 7" in the front and 10" in the back. The circumference I wanted was 21". In order to achieve the 21" circumference, I subtraced the 17 from 21 and got 4 inches. By dividing 4 by 4, I get 1" that has to be added to each side of the pattern at the hem. That means that now the back hem width is 12" and the front is 9" which will give you the required 21". Then from the knee down, I drew a line (orange) to my new hem width. You'll want to add hem allowances beyond this length or else you'll get a different circumference. Granted, your numbers probably won't turn out as easy to work with as mine did. As someone mentioned I do teach math and know how to make the numbers work in my favor when I get to make them up. In real life, they will be a bit more difficult. You don't need to use 21", you may like your pants narrower or wider than that. 
Please forgive my crude drawing, but I think you'll get the point.
Alteration Drawing
ETA: Just to clarify, on the drawing I said to add 1" to hem. That's not what I meant. I meant to add 1" to each side at the hemline.
-- Edited on 9/4/09 1:46 AM --
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Please forgive my crude drawing, but I think you'll get the point.
Alteration Drawing
ETA: Just to clarify, on the drawing I said to add 1" to hem. That's not what I meant. I meant to add 1" to each side at the hemline.
-- Edited on 9/4/09 1:46 AM --
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Visit my blog at http://sewingsaga.blogspot.com
If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL
If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL
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