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questions about pre-treating and steam pressing (Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952)
Posted on: 9/9/09 10:21 AM ET
I looked on here and found some threads about washing the wool with Eucalan to pre-shrink. But, then I found a thread that said to press with a damp cloth to pre-shrink. I'm wondering what will happen if I pre-shrink in the bathtub in cold to tepid water with Eucalan (what I will do after I construct the coat) and then when I am in the process of making my coat I have to steam press the collar. Will the collar fabric shrink even more? I don't want to change the look of the fabric as it is now so, I don't want to throw it into the washer and then the dryer. Maybe I won't even have to press the collar of My coat I will be making coat c. The under collar is lining fabric.
How much does wool shrink anyhow? How much extra should I purchase? the pattern calls for 3 3/8 yards of 60" fabric.
How much does wool shrink anyhow? How much extra should I purchase? the pattern calls for 3 3/8 yards of 60" fabric.
Member since 1/22/08
Posts: 2688
Posts: 2688
Quebec Canada
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Posted on: 9/9/09 8:30 PM ET
I've seen quite a few different methods of preshrinking wool. Hot water/eucalan, steam pressing, regular wash/dry, london shrink (rolling in a damp sheet), etc. All VERY time-consuming 
Last week I bought 12 meters of suitweight wool and during my blog reading that day, I found
this post by Pam from Off the Cuff Style. Given that she's a professional in the industry, it was worth it to give her method a try.
Following her instructions, I threw my wool in the dryer with 3 hot, wet bath towels for 40 minutes. Yes, all of it, I didn't even do one piece at a time 'just in case'.
Awesome ! They shrunk some (which of course was the whole point) but they felt exactly the same, no change in the feel or the hand of the wool. I'll do this every time now
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Last week I bought 12 meters of suitweight wool and during my blog reading that day, I found
this post by Pam from Off the Cuff Style. Given that she's a professional in the industry, it was worth it to give her method a try.
Following her instructions, I threw my wool in the dryer with 3 hot, wet bath towels for 40 minutes. Yes, all of it, I didn't even do one piece at a time 'just in case'.
Awesome ! They shrunk some (which of course was the whole point) but they felt exactly the same, no change in the feel or the hand of the wool. I'll do this every time now
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Claire
1seamatatime.blogspot.com
There is always something to be thankful for.
2018 50 yard dash - 13.85 yds sewn
8 yds - pj pants x4
5.85 - 3352 Jalie Dolman x3, dress x1
1seamatatime.blogspot.com
There is always something to be thankful for.
2018 50 yard dash - 13.85 yds sewn
8 yds - pj pants x4
5.85 - 3352 Jalie Dolman x3, dress x1
Posted on: 9/10/09 1:18 AM ET
I also tried Pam's method with a piece of wool melton. It lost 2"in width. The 3yd 6" length lost 2" as well. The hand is slightly softer. It lost some of the hard press but I prefer it that way so I'm very pleased. I have enough of this piece to risk more shrinkage so I'm going to do it one more time just to see what happens. I'm not crazy about the color so no great loss if it doesn't work. I've tried the other methods and this works as well with the added benefit of being quick and low cost. I'll definitely do it again.
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She looks for wool and flax And works with her hands in delight. Proverbs 31:13 NAS
Posted on: 9/10/09 12:29 PM ET
Claire in Montreal and My Horse,
I seen Pam's method today also in my search to learn more about wool. I was shocked! But, as my horse said her fabric changed a little. I really don't want any change. But I ordered 4 yards so I will perhaps take a bigger swatch from that when it comes and do Pam's method to see if I like it or not.
I seen Pam's method today also in my search to learn more about wool. I was shocked! But, as my horse said her fabric changed a little. I really don't want any change. But I ordered 4 yards so I will perhaps take a bigger swatch from that when it comes and do Pam's method to see if I like it or not.
Posted on: 9/10/09 12:33 PM ET
In reply to jewelsfashions
Holy-moly!! Thanks for posting this info! I spent $100-200 last year taking wool to the dry cleaners to be pre shrunk! Think of all the fabric I could have bought!
Thank you!
Judy
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Thank you!
Judy
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judyp
Posted on: 9/10/09 12:38 PM ET
This is very good to know. I'm about to start working with some wool coating and was planning to take it to the dry cleaners... but I loooove to avoid paying for stuff like that so maybe I'll try this. I have at least 1/2 yd extra fabric because I could only order it in whole yards.
When it comes to pressing wool coating - you definitely want the steam OFF, right? Because steam can shrink (or stretch, depending on how you use your iron) wool?
When it comes to pressing wool coating - you definitely want the steam OFF, right? Because steam can shrink (or stretch, depending on how you use your iron) wool?
Posted on: 9/10/09 2:28 PM ET
In reply to chicaem29
I read someplace (and I'm not sure where now because I have been everywhere for two days) that you are not to use a dry iron when pressing wool. I don't know if it is true or not as I have never used wool ever. But, that was why I questioned my shrinking method. I didn't want my wool to shrink anymore once out of the tub if I was steam pressing the collar. Hope someone can tell us for sure.
Added to edit:
I read in another post here that they apply water with a daber just to the seam and then use a press cloth and press with a dry iron then putting a clapper over the top to hold the seam down. I think I will be doing a little bit more reading before proceeding with my coat
-- Edited on 9/10/09 2:42 PM --
Added to edit:
I read in another post here that they apply water with a daber just to the seam and then use a press cloth and press with a dry iron then putting a clapper over the top to hold the seam down. I think I will be doing a little bit more reading before proceeding with my coat

-- Edited on 9/10/09 2:42 PM --
Posted on: 9/10/09 4:17 PM ET
In reply to jewelsfashions
Well, I was reading the fall issue of SewStylish yesterday and they have a whole section about working with thick wool. Part of it is about how you can use steaming to shrink and shape the wool, e.g. for a sleeve cap, or to stretch it (can't remember what purpose the stretching serves, but you do it by steaming and running the iron along the fabric instead of pressing up and down). They didn't have any other info in that article about pressing/iron wool so my assumption is that I want to use a dry iron when pressing, or else I could shrink/stretch the wool. I've used wool a little bit before, but it has always been wool suiting or similar, never a heavy weight melton or coating. I used a dry iron when I sewed those things, because I didn't know about steam then. (LOL!) So if it's the case that you should use a dry iron, then I lucked out on those projects; if you should use steam, well, my garments turned out pretty well anyways.
Posted on: 9/19/09 7:39 PM ET
In reply to chicaem29
If you are rolling a collar, or turning a notched collar, you might need a little stretching of the collar fabric to make it roll smoothly, or a little shrinkage to make the notched collar points look smooth and elegant. Also, sometimes putting a sleeve head in requires a little shrinkage, or easing, but not the stitching easing, just sort of a cramming a wee bit more fabric on one piece in to meet the fabric piece that is getting something attached to it.
That's why using a tailor's ham or sleeve roll is so important in making some wool jackets or coats.
My grandmother used a meat tenderizing hammer (which hadn't be used on the scallopini, ever) for some of those reluctant bits when she'd make us dresses. The hammer made those seams lie down right away. I never actually saw her beat something into submission, just enough pounding to coax the reluctant.
She also talked to the fabric as she sewed. A lot. I don't know if the fabric listened, but the clothing she made was really wonderful.
That's why using a tailor's ham or sleeve roll is so important in making some wool jackets or coats.
My grandmother used a meat tenderizing hammer (which hadn't be used on the scallopini, ever) for some of those reluctant bits when she'd make us dresses. The hammer made those seams lie down right away. I never actually saw her beat something into submission, just enough pounding to coax the reluctant.
She also talked to the fabric as she sewed. A lot. I don't know if the fabric listened, but the clothing she made was really wonderful.
Posted on: 9/19/09 7:52 PM ET
In reply to fiddlinglizzie
What a delightful memory! Thanks for sharing!
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She looks for wool and flax And works with her hands in delight. Proverbs 31:13 NAS
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