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Posted on: 3/25/10 3:57 PM ET
I am making B5402, the Connie Crawford jeans jacket and things were going wonderfully well until I inserted the sleeves.
Even though the drawing show the seams at the shoulders, I was thinking that they might be slightly dropped. I basted in the sleeve and it is way too long. On this jacket, the distance from the neck edge of the shoulder seam to the armsyce is 8". On other jackets I have, the neck to shoulder seam is 5 to 5.5 inches. On the one sleeve I have in, I took an inch for the seam allowance and it measures 7 inches.
So I need to take off a minimum of 2 inches. What will this do to the hang of the jacket, back and sleeve length? I have no spatial ability and am having problems visualizing the results. This is a pricess seam and the seam lines through the body are in the proper place. I looked at the pattern and even cutting the smallest size through the shoulder won't take enough off.
This is a muslin, so I am willing to hack at it. Is there a correct way to take this amount off?
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Even though the drawing show the seams at the shoulders, I was thinking that they might be slightly dropped. I basted in the sleeve and it is way too long. On this jacket, the distance from the neck edge of the shoulder seam to the armsyce is 8". On other jackets I have, the neck to shoulder seam is 5 to 5.5 inches. On the one sleeve I have in, I took an inch for the seam allowance and it measures 7 inches.
So I need to take off a minimum of 2 inches. What will this do to the hang of the jacket, back and sleeve length? I have no spatial ability and am having problems visualizing the results. This is a pricess seam and the seam lines through the body are in the proper place. I looked at the pattern and even cutting the smallest size through the shoulder won't take enough off.
This is a muslin, so I am willing to hack at it. Is there a correct way to take this amount off?
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2009-113.25 yds
2010-115.5
2011-80.25+30+donated
2012 86.3 yds..
2013 21.0
Everyone who sews seriously has a stockpile of fabrics, because it is natural to purchase more than can be sewn in any one season" Singer, Timesaving Sewing, 1987
2010-115.5
2011-80.25+30+donated
2012 86.3 yds..
2013 21.0
Everyone who sews seriously has a stockpile of fabrics, because it is natural to purchase more than can be sewn in any one season" Singer, Timesaving Sewing, 1987
Posted on: 3/29/10 5:06 PM ET
I hope someone will answer this as I have the same question.
Posted on: 3/29/10 8:40 PM ET
I looked at the pix today on the Butterick website, and the plus sized jacket had a nice fit in the shoulders and the misses looked like it had a glitch to me. I know Butterick said it's supposed to look like that, but I would email Connie directly and ask her about it.
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My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.
Posted on: 3/29/10 8:55 PM ET
In reply to jannw
when you are taking off two inches one on each side you have to adjust the slope of the pattern. if you don't the sleeve will not fit properly. When it is only a small amount I adjust between 1/8 or 1/4 not much but it does make a differences.When i worked in alterations in a dept store we did a lot of adjusting and that was one of the things we did. Hope this helps.
(before you permently sew up the sleeve seam do a little larger stitch to see if it is right. If it isn't you can alway take the sleeve apart and adjust more. this is how I did it.)
-- Edited on 3/29/10 8:58 PM --
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Do not be anxious about anything, but in everything, by prayer and petition, with thanksgiving, present your request to god. And
The peace of god, which transcends all understanding, will guard your hearts and your minds in Christ Jesus. Philippians 4:6-7
The peace of god, which transcends all understanding, will guard your hearts and your minds in Christ Jesus. Philippians 4:6-7
Posted on: 3/30/10 0:15 AM ET
I have very narrow shoulders too. Since this is a muslin garment I'd just put in the sleeves, after you've taken off the 2 inches on the shoulder and see how it goes. What I've found for me is that my whole upper body is narrow, not just my shoulders. I often will take off and inch or so off the center, then add that inch to the side seams. This brings in the whole upper area above the seam: neckline and shoulders. I've found that works better for me than just chopping some off the shoulders. You might need to experiment with different alterations before you find what works for you.
Posted on: 3/30/10 2:10 AM ET
Thank you all for the information..I did put one sleeve in ..found the shoulder seam length to be 8" versus 5 to 5.5" on other patterns of this size. I did email Butterick, who replied that that was correct for that size range as per CC. I found this jacket in the Misses size range to be unwearable. I did post a review of my half a jacket and posted Buttericks letter under the thread "Connie Crawford Jean Jacket".
Again, thank you all for your attempts to help..some very good info.
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Again, thank you all for your attempts to help..some very good info.
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2009-113.25 yds
2010-115.5
2011-80.25+30+donated
2012 86.3 yds..
2013 21.0
Everyone who sews seriously has a stockpile of fabrics, because it is natural to purchase more than can be sewn in any one season" Singer, Timesaving Sewing, 1987
2010-115.5
2011-80.25+30+donated
2012 86.3 yds..
2013 21.0
Everyone who sews seriously has a stockpile of fabrics, because it is natural to purchase more than can be sewn in any one season" Singer, Timesaving Sewing, 1987
Posted on: 3/30/10 4:04 AM ET
That seems to be a very long shoulder measurement. I took a peek at your review and saw you made a 14. Drafting jeans jackets I often use a shirt sleeve - that lengthens the shoulder by approx. one inch and takes a corresponding amount off the sleeve head - it gives a more casual fit than a set in sleeve. Also an overgarment would typically have about quarter of an inch extra length on the shoulder. Going from the table of measurements I use (they're metric but roughly converting) that would give a shoulder length in a jeans jacket for a 14 of about 6 and a quarter inches. So an eight inch shoulder seems huge, and to me a couple of inches too big.
The whole look of the jacket suggests they would use a shirt sleeve and armhole rather than set in sleeve, the slant of the shoulder is changed slightly as its lengthened to avoid tightening up the armhole - less slopey.
An eight inch shoulder length on me arrives at dropped shoulder position, a good two inches below my top arm and I use a 14 or 16 bodice, so I'm wondering who this shoulder length would suit.
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The whole look of the jacket suggests they would use a shirt sleeve and armhole rather than set in sleeve, the slant of the shoulder is changed slightly as its lengthened to avoid tightening up the armhole - less slopey.
An eight inch shoulder length on me arrives at dropped shoulder position, a good two inches below my top arm and I use a 14 or 16 bodice, so I'm wondering who this shoulder length would suit.
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http://patternpandemonium.wordpress.com/
Posted on: 3/30/10 1:46 PM ET
In reply to petro
Quote:
I'm wondering who this shoulder length would suit.
I'm wondering who this shoulder length would suit.
The only people I can think of are those with very heavy upper arm and back..and they probably wouldn't be sewing the Misses size range..
I do realize that Connie Crawford designs for heavier individuals, but the pattern did come in the Misses size range. It does say that she designs for the "mature figure" and that rounded back adjustments are built in. Since that is an adjustment I do, I thought that this would be the perfect pattern. I am an apple shape and I carry my weight in the tummy. Unfortunatly the pattern isn't built this way..all excess is in the upper part of the jacket, while the waistline and lower sleeves are relativly tight.
What most irritated me is the letter from Butterick. I did get a very polite, prompt reply, but in it, she stated that the pattern art and the line drawings were general, not exact. Both of those are the way I buy a pattern. If the drawing on the instruction sheets aren't accurate...why bother? For this pattern, both drawings show a definite shoulder seam and not a dropped shoulder at all..If it had been the 6 inches you suggest, I would have been happy with that.
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2009-113.25 yds
2010-115.5
2011-80.25+30+donated
2012 86.3 yds..
2013 21.0
Everyone who sews seriously has a stockpile of fabrics, because it is natural to purchase more than can be sewn in any one season" Singer, Timesaving Sewing, 1987
2010-115.5
2011-80.25+30+donated
2012 86.3 yds..
2013 21.0
Everyone who sews seriously has a stockpile of fabrics, because it is natural to purchase more than can be sewn in any one season" Singer, Timesaving Sewing, 1987
Posted on: 9/24/10 11:50 AM ET
In reply to jannw
I've started adjusting in the center of the seam by drawing a line straight down from the center on each shoulder seam piece and making a long, very skinny (disappearing) dart .5 to 1 cm wide. This way you don't have to fiddle with the shape of the armscye or sleeve. I'll show you what I mean if you're interested.
P.S. If you have Ottobre Woman, they give shoulder width measurements in their size chart. The shoulder widths range from 13 cm (abt. 5.1") for size 34/8, up to 14.6 cm (abt. 5.7") for size 52/26. I'm short, so my shoulder width is more like what a size 6 pattern would be (woo hoo!), even though I am sure not size 6.
-- Edited on 9/24/10 12:02 PM --
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P.S. If you have Ottobre Woman, they give shoulder width measurements in their size chart. The shoulder widths range from 13 cm (abt. 5.1") for size 34/8, up to 14.6 cm (abt. 5.7") for size 52/26. I'm short, so my shoulder width is more like what a size 6 pattern would be (woo hoo!), even though I am sure not size 6.
-- Edited on 9/24/10 12:02 PM --
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my shield and my very great reward ~ Gen. 15:1
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If you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid. ~ Albert Einstein
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~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
If you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid. ~ Albert Einstein
People have a way of becoming what you encourage them to be, not what you nag them to be. ~ Scudder N. Parker
Posted on: 9/24/10 1:03 PM ET
In reply to drsue
Quote: drsue
I have very narrow shoulders too. What I've found for me is that my whole upper body is narrow, not just my shoulders. I often will take off and inch or so off the center, then add that inch to the side seams. This brings in the whole upper area above the seam: neckline and shoulders. I've found that works better for me than just chopping some off the shoulders.
I have very narrow shoulders too. What I've found for me is that my whole upper body is narrow, not just my shoulders. I often will take off and inch or so off the center, then add that inch to the side seams. This brings in the whole upper area above the seam: neckline and shoulders. I've found that works better for me than just chopping some off the shoulders.
Sue, I have the same problem & this sounds like what I need to try. I've tried just trimming off the shoulder, but I think your alteration would work much better. Thanks for posting this.
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Beverly
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