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I'm starting to work with some of the vintage patterns in my collection and need a little clarification on how to resize them. (Moderated by arianamaniacs)
Posted on: 4/2/10 12:28 PM ET
My pattern is a 40's Anne Adams. It's very basic, with a front and back bodice, and front and back skirt that button down each side. Gathering at the two ends of the front skirt, darts on top, and a tie belt. I understand the concept of slashing and spreading. This is the website i've been looking over:
http://www.sensibility.com/pattern/resizepattern.htm
The thing I'm having trouble with is the fact that my hips, my waist, and my bust, aren't all one size. I know this is common in vintage patterns which is why I came here. The pattern is a size 12. 30" bust, 25 1/2" waist, and 33" hips. I'm not an inverted triangle though. My bust is 33 1/2", my waist is 26", and my hips remain the original size at 33". I have a narrow back. but the bottom of the bodice is going to bacially be the waist line, and I don't want a three inches difference when I sew bodice to belt and belt to skirt. The way to do this that makes sense to me logically would be to slash and spread it to the appropriate size in on the bodices, and then sort of slide the spread to a tapered v shape that would narrow to the appropriate size of the waistline at the bottom of the bodice. Am I totally off? Is all of this irrelevent? Please give me some advice or maybe a resource that will clear things up. My last vintage dress was a lucky shot; I adjusted things by eye in mid sew, and it fit. I don't want to take another chance.
http://www.sensibility.com/pattern/resizepattern.htm
The thing I'm having trouble with is the fact that my hips, my waist, and my bust, aren't all one size. I know this is common in vintage patterns which is why I came here. The pattern is a size 12. 30" bust, 25 1/2" waist, and 33" hips. I'm not an inverted triangle though. My bust is 33 1/2", my waist is 26", and my hips remain the original size at 33". I have a narrow back. but the bottom of the bodice is going to bacially be the waist line, and I don't want a three inches difference when I sew bodice to belt and belt to skirt. The way to do this that makes sense to me logically would be to slash and spread it to the appropriate size in on the bodices, and then sort of slide the spread to a tapered v shape that would narrow to the appropriate size of the waistline at the bottom of the bodice. Am I totally off? Is all of this irrelevent? Please give me some advice or maybe a resource that will clear things up. My last vintage dress was a lucky shot; I adjusted things by eye in mid sew, and it fit. I don't want to take another chance.
Posted on: 4/2/10 1:47 PM ET
What cup size do you wear? If it's larger than B, I think you just need an FBA. From the measurements you give (of yourself & the pattern), I don't think you need to resize/grade the pattern at all - you just need an FBA (full bust adjustment) to accommodate your bust in the front. An FBA is similar to what I think you're proposing you do with the slash/spread.
Most fitting books cover enlarging for a bigger bust, and there's a pinned topic here on PR with lots of resources on it, as well as a lot of helpful blog posts around etc.
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Most fitting books cover enlarging for a bigger bust, and there's a pinned topic here on PR with lots of resources on it, as well as a lot of helpful blog posts around etc.
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Posted on: 4/2/10 8:03 PM ET
Im a cup size C. THANK YOU!
Posted on: 4/2/10 11:29 PM ET
I have also found that most of my vintage patterns have more ease in them acroos the bust then we are used to these days. I atribute this to haveing only woven fabrics and nothing with stretch. Make sure to do a muslin because, while the measurements say it will fit, the body shape it was drafted for has changed over time.
-Michelle
-Michelle
Posted on: 4/3/10 10:52 AM ET
Thank you so much this is all very helpful. I have an idea of how to make this work, and the construction of the dress allows for alittle error, so I'm expecting great results, but I will definitely test first! I picked out fabric and buttons ages ago, so I wont let it go untested!
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