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Moderated by Deepika
Posted on: 7/13/10 11:55 AM ET
My daughter is getting married soon, found the Perfect Dress, and asked me to make it. Naturally, I said yes. I made a body block for her, and DD purchased a used sample (wrong size and color) so I'd have something to go on. It's been quite helpful. Not a terribly difficult design, just difficult fabrics and some quirky little tucks. I'm still tweaking the muslin, but it's almost there!
The dress is a mermaid style, a silk satin, cut on the bias, with a charmeuse lining, and a train (attached at the back hip and princess seams) of silk taffeta with an organza lining and horsehair braid.
There's an underlining / interfacing behind the silk satin which I don't recognize. It's a bit thick and rougher texture and has been handbasted to the silk at the seams. It looks a bit like Pro-Weft fusible, but hasn't been fused to the silk--the silk has tucks in the bodice and at the waist, but the underlining / interfacing has darts like the charmeuse lining. Has anyone come across anything like this? Or can someone suggest an alternative? I don't think I can skip an underlining--it adds support and body to the dress.
~Debbie
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The dress is a mermaid style, a silk satin, cut on the bias, with a charmeuse lining, and a train (attached at the back hip and princess seams) of silk taffeta with an organza lining and horsehair braid.
There's an underlining / interfacing behind the silk satin which I don't recognize. It's a bit thick and rougher texture and has been handbasted to the silk at the seams. It looks a bit like Pro-Weft fusible, but hasn't been fused to the silk--the silk has tucks in the bodice and at the waist, but the underlining / interfacing has darts like the charmeuse lining. Has anyone come across anything like this? Or can someone suggest an alternative? I don't think I can skip an underlining--it adds support and body to the dress.
~Debbie
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~Debbie
Posted on: 7/13/10 1:28 PM ET
could it be silk organza? That is common for underlining. I have used it to underline linen and it works really nicely.
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Sue V
Posted on: 7/13/10 2:25 PM ET
In reply to SueV
I wish, then I'd recognize it!
No, this is a thicker fabric, off-white (beige), with a nubby texture. I've never come across it before. Organza has been used as a stabilizer on the seams holding the train, and as an interfacing under the arms and at the neckline.
The underlining, whatever it is, gives the dress a great deal of body. It's a rather heavy dress for the size of it, given that it's mostly mid-weight silk. I think it's because of the underlining. I'll try to figure out how to post a picture and maybe someone will recognize it. I just hope it isn't some obscure "designer" underlining that regular folks can't get their hands on!
Thanks!
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No, this is a thicker fabric, off-white (beige), with a nubby texture. I've never come across it before. Organza has been used as a stabilizer on the seams holding the train, and as an interfacing under the arms and at the neckline.
The underlining, whatever it is, gives the dress a great deal of body. It's a rather heavy dress for the size of it, given that it's mostly mid-weight silk. I think it's because of the underlining. I'll try to figure out how to post a picture and maybe someone will recognize it. I just hope it isn't some obscure "designer" underlining that regular folks can't get their hands on!
Thanks!
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~Debbie
Posted on: 7/14/10 11:38 AM ET
I'd be interested in pictures of both the dress and the underlining! The style of the dress sounds very unique, especially with the train.
I wonder if the underlining is a type of heavy-weight broadcloth, maybe...
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I wonder if the underlining is a type of heavy-weight broadcloth, maybe...
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Megan
Owner, La Robe Couture
Owner, La Robe Couture
Posted on: 7/14/10 3:46 PM ET
It's not hair canvas, is it? You can see pics and buy it here in different widths (don't forget to scroll down):
Hair Canvas at Vogue Fabrics
Hair Canvas at Vogue Fabrics
Posted on: 7/14/10 5:11 PM ET
In reply to sewingoffthechart
Thank you! That might be it!
I'm still hoping to post a picture--have to find the darned cable to upload it! Then you can tell me what you think.
Have you used hair canvas before? Is it difficult to handle?
Boy, I'd be thrilled if the mystery has been solved!!!!
~Debbie
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I'm still hoping to post a picture--have to find the darned cable to upload it! Then you can tell me what you think.
Have you used hair canvas before? Is it difficult to handle?
Boy, I'd be thrilled if the mystery has been solved!!!!
~Debbie
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~Debbie
Posted on: 7/14/10 10:30 PM ET
Okay, I think I figured it all out (attaching a picture, that is).
Here's a picture of the underlining in the sample:

Do you think it's hair canvas? If so, why do you think the designer would use such a heavy underlining for silk?
~Debbie
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Here's a picture of the underlining in the sample:
Do you think it's hair canvas? If so, why do you think the designer would use such a heavy underlining for silk?
~Debbie
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~Debbie
Posted on: 7/14/10 10:52 PM ET
In reply to WordNerd
This is very interesting, because in general underlining bias is avoided like the plague: Problems with the drape of two layers of different weights, you know.
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Elona
Posted on: 7/15/10 9:34 AM ET
Hi Debbie,
I'm using hair canvas for my first winter coat. I've never used it before, but nothing I have heard suggests that it is difficult to use. Most times, it is pad stitched to the help shape lapels & collars.
I am surprised that the wedding dress contains hair canvas because it is typically used for tailoring wool jackets. I made all my formal dresses (using commercial patterns), and I've never see hair canvas suggested as an interlining. It does seem counterinituitive to me to use such a stiff interlining for a bias cut silk dress because it will keep the silk from draping fluidly over the body. But, because I've never made a bias silk dress, my opinion may be irrelevant.
Why don't you buy a bit of hair canvas and layer the face, interlining, and lining fabrics together to see how the hair canvas changes how they drape?
Good luck!
I'm using hair canvas for my first winter coat. I've never used it before, but nothing I have heard suggests that it is difficult to use. Most times, it is pad stitched to the help shape lapels & collars.
I am surprised that the wedding dress contains hair canvas because it is typically used for tailoring wool jackets. I made all my formal dresses (using commercial patterns), and I've never see hair canvas suggested as an interlining. It does seem counterinituitive to me to use such a stiff interlining for a bias cut silk dress because it will keep the silk from draping fluidly over the body. But, because I've never made a bias silk dress, my opinion may be irrelevant.
Why don't you buy a bit of hair canvas and layer the face, interlining, and lining fabrics together to see how the hair canvas changes how they drape?
Good luck!
Posted on: 7/15/10 9:41 AM ET
In reply to Elona
Yes, it's rather confusing. Had I not had the sample in front of me, I would have muddled along as best I could, working off of pictures. Since I do have the sample, I feel more compelled to "get it right." In any case, it has to be done!
I'm going to the fabric stores today, to see if they have any hair canvas on hand, to compare and maybe buy a bit.
The underlining was stitched like the lining (with bust darts rather than tucks), then basted onto the silk. Maybe the pieces were hung separately before basting?
Another learning experience, right?!
:o)
~Debbie
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I'm going to the fabric stores today, to see if they have any hair canvas on hand, to compare and maybe buy a bit.
The underlining was stitched like the lining (with bust darts rather than tucks), then basted onto the silk. Maybe the pieces were hung separately before basting?
Another learning experience, right?!
:o)
~Debbie
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~Debbie
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