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Posted on: 7/22/10 2:43 PM ET
I have a pair of slacks that I am trying to tweak. They are drafted from the Armstrong pattern making book. I feel like the back crotch shape is great, but I have too much length in the front crotch. The fabric pulls across the thighs when I walk.
How do I raise the front crotch without messing up the back crotch?
I have a low seat. I determined that I have a slanted crotch line by using a ruler that sticks out the front and back. The ruler is higher in the front and lower in the back.
Any thoughts would be helpful!
Brenna
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How do I raise the front crotch without messing up the back crotch?
I have a low seat. I determined that I have a slanted crotch line by using a ruler that sticks out the front and back. The ruler is higher in the front and lower in the back.
Any thoughts would be helpful!
Brenna
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http://sewing4myself.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 7/22/10 2:56 PM ET
In reply to TallBean
First of all, that is the shape of the human female: high in front, angling downward as we go toward the back. Some have a greater "downward", for various reasons. That's me.
One thing you can do is to begin at the back near the crotch seam and make the curve higher as you go toward the front. You might also need to make it a straighter line, especially if you don't have much of a protruding abdoman or belly. In some instances, people leave the front as is, but "scoop out" the back at the lowest part of the fanny.
What it mostly is, is trail and error in pants. Keep trying. Don't give up!
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One thing you can do is to begin at the back near the crotch seam and make the curve higher as you go toward the front. You might also need to make it a straighter line, especially if you don't have much of a protruding abdoman or belly. In some instances, people leave the front as is, but "scoop out" the back at the lowest part of the fanny.
What it mostly is, is trail and error in pants. Keep trying. Don't give up!

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Oops, forgot what I was going to put here.
Posted on: 7/22/10 7:14 PM ET
I agree with GIButterfly all women are higher in the front and lower in the back. It may be that you have a hip tilted backward figure which raises the waist at center back and makes it lower at center front. Try taking a pinch out of the cf length around hiplevel tapering to nothing at the side seam. You say the that the pants pull across the thighs when you walk, that indicates thay are laying against you're leg when you walk , by lifting them slightly it will bring the crotch curve closer to your bodyand you will have better freedom of movement.
Candi C
Candi C
Posted on: 7/22/10 7:18 PM ET
In reply to GlButterfly
Quote: GlButterfly
What it mostly is, is trail and error in pants. Keep trying. Don't give up!
What it mostly is, is trail and error in pants. Keep trying. Don't give up!
Fruedian slip?
Pants fitting can indeed be a long, long trail.I'd suggest doing a muslin with a good inch or two added at the top front and back where you would attach the waistband. Then in between pulling up or down at the waist, and scooping out the back, you should be able to work out this fit issue. When it comes to scooping, just do a little bit at a time.
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sewing blog: https://unzippedsewing.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 7/22/10 8:45 PM ET
In reply to TallBean
Quote: TallBean
How do I raise the front crotch without messing up the back crotch?
How do I raise the front crotch without messing up the back crotch?
You just raise it, opposite of lowering by scooping. Draw a flatter higher crotch line in the curve of the front pattern piece.
I really think the whole scooping out the back crotch curve is a bad idea in most cases. Some wonky patterns need a curve reshaping but most of the time one simply needs to lower the whole pants, as in don't wear them so high that you get a wedgie.
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Liz
thefittinglife.blogspot.com
thefittinglife.blogspot.com
Posted on: 7/22/10 8:50 PM ET
Perhaps you just need to shorten the front. If you pinch out a fold of fabric horizontally, do the pants fit better? It is common to have a shorter front than back than the pattern and with a low fanny often there is a shorter front and the waist angles lower in front than in back.
I generally fold out a wedge from the center front to the side seams. I could just fold out the extra straight across, then raise the side seam to meet the back piece. I prefer to fold out a horizontal dart with the fat part at the center front and the point at the side seam line (not cutting line), then true my waistline markings so they stay on grain.
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I generally fold out a wedge from the center front to the side seams. I could just fold out the extra straight across, then raise the side seam to meet the back piece. I prefer to fold out a horizontal dart with the fat part at the center front and the point at the side seam line (not cutting line), then true my waistline markings so they stay on grain.
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Fictionfan
Posted on: 7/22/10 9:38 PM ET
In reply to blue mooney
Hahahaha. Yes, it should be "trial", but since, as you pointed out, "trail" also works, I'm not going to correct it.
We are even as it is Freudian, not Fruedian, slip. (sometimes I think typos hold this site together LOL)
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We are even as it is Freudian, not Fruedian, slip. (sometimes I think typos hold this site together LOL)
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Oops, forgot what I was going to put here.
Posted on: 7/22/10 11:22 PM ET
Joyce Murphy drafted a higher front crotch wing for our patterns, at her workshop I attended. The old THREADS magazine articles might have some illustrations on this... I can't remember.
My Joyce Murphy pants pattern has a shorter inseam on the back patter piece, than the front pattern piece. The idea is that you stretch the last 7 - 8 inches of the back inseam to meet the front inseam, providing better fit. It can be from an inch to a couple inches.
Threads #1
Threads #2
The famous fish-eye dart that Kenneth King does in his moulage class (check Debbie Cook's site for more info) really provides a similar effect, I think, because it more or less shortens the back inseam.
Hope this helps, and does not confuse you further.
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My Joyce Murphy pants pattern has a shorter inseam on the back patter piece, than the front pattern piece. The idea is that you stretch the last 7 - 8 inches of the back inseam to meet the front inseam, providing better fit. It can be from an inch to a couple inches.
Threads #1
Threads #2
The famous fish-eye dart that Kenneth King does in his moulage class (check Debbie Cook's site for more info) really provides a similar effect, I think, because it more or less shortens the back inseam.
Hope this helps, and does not confuse you further.
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iPad's auto-correct is my enema.
Posted on: 7/23/10 10:28 AM ET
In reply to GlButterfly
Quote: GlButterfly
We are even as it is Freudian, not Fruedian, slip. (sometimes I think typos hold this site together LOL)
We are even as it is Freudian, not Fruedian, slip. (sometimes I think typos hold this site together LOL)



Funny how sometimes typos lead to insights!
And sometimes (to paraphrase the doctor) a typo is just a typo.
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sewing blog: https://unzippedsewing.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 7/23/10 12:52 PM ET
In reply to GlButterfly
I am glad to know that most women are shaped this same way! I read in my alteration books about how a low seat is due to age and a lack of muscle tone. Stupid books! I'm not old and I still have plenty of muscles. Anyhow...I did try just bringing up the front crotch, and I think it worked! I am currently trying to transfer my alterations to the flat pattern so I can cut a test pair of pants in my ugly fabric. If that works, then I'll draft the pockets, WB and try the nicer fabric.
Thanks for the encouragement and ideas!
Brenna
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Thanks for the encouragement and ideas!
Brenna
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http://sewing4myself.blogspot.com/
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