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Posted on: 9/8/10 5:15 PM ET
I muslined a Burda pants pattern. They are a fitted, tapered style, but I've got a lot of excess fabric in the back, cascading down from under the butt to the knee. If I take an even tuck across the back leg, above the knee, the ripples disappear. This suggests to me that the back leg needs to be shorter than the front leg, if this makes sense, but I can't figure out how I should actually make this alteration. Can ayone help?
Re: Topic moved (posted on 9/8/10 5:21 PM ET)
This topic has been moved from Sewing Techniques and Tips to Fitting Woes
Posted on: 9/8/10 5:30 PM ET
In reply to peaudane
What is the problem is that you have too much material between your rear and the knee which is generally due to postural issues such as a tilted pelvis. There are two ways to fix this, but overfitting will make it hard to sit down!. Pin a tuck out above buttocks at cb. If this works, this amount will be removed from the waist tapering to nothing by the side seams.
This will often result in a tight back crotch and will have to be sewn lower until it is comfortable This is supposed to make your side seams perpendicular to the floor. If it doesn't you'll need to adjust the side seam so that they are. The tilted pelvis makes the side seams swing to the back. I used a plumb line held at my side seam at the waist, or if you want to move the side seam, mark where you want it and hang the line from that point. Have someone mark where the line hits at the hem of your pants. Draw a line from your waist mark to the hem mark and adjust your pattern.
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This will often result in a tight back crotch and will have to be sewn lower until it is comfortable This is supposed to make your side seams perpendicular to the floor. If it doesn't you'll need to adjust the side seam so that they are. The tilted pelvis makes the side seams swing to the back. I used a plumb line held at my side seam at the waist, or if you want to move the side seam, mark where you want it and hang the line from that point. Have someone mark where the line hits at the hem of your pants. Draw a line from your waist mark to the hem mark and adjust your pattern.
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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
Posted on: 9/8/10 6:56 PM ET
In reply to peaudane
I'm starting to wonder if this is the style ..I recently sis three pants muslins from three different companies and had the same problem with each. I went back to an older pattern that I had and no problems.
I don't think my pelvis is tilted ( I'll have to look that up), but my side seams did hang correctly. I do have a flat rear and average thighs. I'm going to try a fisheye dart in my next muslin and see if that works.
Good luck and be sure and post what works for you...
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I don't think my pelvis is tilted ( I'll have to look that up), but my side seams did hang correctly. I do have a flat rear and average thighs. I'm going to try a fisheye dart in my next muslin and see if that works.
Good luck and be sure and post what works for you...
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2009-113.25 yds
2010-115.5
2011-80.25+30+donated
2012 86.3 yds..
2013 21.0
Everyone who sews seriously has a stockpile of fabrics, because it is natural to purchase more than can be sewn in any one season" Singer, Timesaving Sewing, 1987
2010-115.5
2011-80.25+30+donated
2012 86.3 yds..
2013 21.0
Everyone who sews seriously has a stockpile of fabrics, because it is natural to purchase more than can be sewn in any one season" Singer, Timesaving Sewing, 1987
Posted on: 9/9/10 8:41 AM ET
In reply to jannw
Posted on: 9/9/10 12:49 PM ET
Actually, I have the opposite of a flat seat. Viewed from the side, my buttocks are quite spherical!
Posted on: 9/9/10 10:38 PM ET
You said they are a fitted tapered pant. Do they taper in at the knee? If the knee placement is off that can cause wrinkles.
Debbie
Debbie
Posted on: 9/10/10 1:43 AM ET
In reply to simplystitches
That's interesting! Would this happen if the knee is too high or too low?
Posted on: 9/10/10 6:41 AM ET
In reply to peaudane
I get this problem too and I have been experimenting with pant fitting over the past month or so. So far I have found the Flat seat adjustment has helped but I DO have a flat butt and I noticed that you don't. I am also playing around with the fish eye dart that Debbie Cook shared here on PR and that certainly helped somewhat. Debbie did comment about the knee not being in the correct position and I think that contributes to my wrinkle problems too. I am very short and it would make complete sense that the knee would not be in the right place.
I am no fit expert but these adjustments have made some improvement in my pants so far. I still have a long way to go though!!!
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I am no fit expert but these adjustments have made some improvement in my pants so far. I still have a long way to go though!!!
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Kathy
Waikiki, Perth, Western Australia
http://waikikimum-sipandsew.blogspot.com/
Waikiki, Perth, Western Australia
http://waikikimum-sipandsew.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 9/10/10 10:26 AM ET
In reply to peaudane
Yes it can! If it's really tapered tight it can hang up on the leg and throw the fit off.
To find the knee on the pattern first fold up the hem allowance then fold the pattern in half matching the hem line to the crotch line. There's the knee point on the pattern. Measure for your own knee. I usually measure from my crotch to the knee. If you measurement is shorter or longer add or subtract tissue above the knee from the front AND back pattern piece so the knee placement matches yours. Then to get the length back do the reverse below the knee. I usually do this somewhere near the middle of the upper and lower leg.
If you find that the knee placement is right it could be that it's just too tight at the knee. Then it's just a matter of smaller seams or adding a bit of width at the knee point.
HTH
Debbie
To find the knee on the pattern first fold up the hem allowance then fold the pattern in half matching the hem line to the crotch line. There's the knee point on the pattern. Measure for your own knee. I usually measure from my crotch to the knee. If you measurement is shorter or longer add or subtract tissue above the knee from the front AND back pattern piece so the knee placement matches yours. Then to get the length back do the reverse below the knee. I usually do this somewhere near the middle of the upper and lower leg.
If you find that the knee placement is right it could be that it's just too tight at the knee. Then it's just a matter of smaller seams or adding a bit of width at the knee point.
HTH
Debbie
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