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Member since 12/1/07
Posts: 244
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Posted on: 9/21/10 5:56 PM ET
I've really stumped myself on what type of non-fusible interfacing to use for a long sleeve "man shirt" for my DG second birthday. To all of you wonderful sewing wizards out there, what would you use instead of a fusible??

The shirt fabric is a nice shirt weight 100% cotton, light green with white stripes. I'm using a Kwik Sew pattern in toddler sizes & it calls for fusible knit interfacing in the collar, under collar and cuffs. I hesitate to use it because I seem to have rotten luck with fusibles & they never look or feel quite right made up in garments. I either get the iron too hot, the press cloth too damp, or I don't stretch the fabric enough while applying it, whatever. If I don't get bubbles right after I apply it, then it bubbles after it's washed. Probably user error I'm sure!

I know this seems like a lot of trouble for a two year old, but I'm totally into making this shirt just like his daddy (my son) would wear!

Thanks for your advice!
  
Member since 8/24/02
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Posted on: 9/21/10 6:14 PM ET
In reply to sewgramma
I almost never use fusibles for anything, and for interfacing nice garments, I generally use prewashed, lightweight poly/cotton batiste or lightweight dress fabric in the same blend. The poly portion helps to keep the placket, collar, and cuffs smooth, even after washing and drying. In my stash, I have a small box with a yard or so each of beige, white, and black poly/cotton for just this purpose.

Whether you're using fusibles or sew-ins, it is really important to pre-shrink both interfacing and garment fabric. Bubbling is frequently due to uneven shrinkage of the two layers during fusion, due to the fact that the shrinkage wasn't removed before cutting things out.
-- Edited on 9/21/10 6:14 PM --
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Elona
  
Member since 8/23/07
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Posted on: 9/21/10 6:16 PM ET
That's easy!! Muslin!!! :)

If you've not got this book in your sewing library, I highly recommend that you get it: David Page Coffin's "Shirtmaking".

It's THE best book on shirtmaking that I've ever found. It's highly recommended here, and by other pros, too. Honestly.

DPC recommends *never* using fusible and instead using plain ol' muslin as interfacing. I've been doing it for years, and it's wonderful. Lasts *much* longer than either non-fusible or fusible interfacing that you buy on the roll.

Mosey on over to YouTube and watch DPC in action:
DPC on ThreadBanger

You can also snag a copy of his DVD or VHS demonstrating his techniques. It's so good, that I bought a new (and hard to find) VCR just so I could keep watching him after my old VCR died!!!

HTH!! :)
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Connie in Panama City Beach, Florida :)

"And these children that you spit on, as they try to change their worlds, are immune to your consultations. They're quite aware of what they're going through" ~ David Bowie, "Changes"

http://www.imsewverycreative.blogspot.com
  
Member since 12/1/07
Posts: 244
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Posted on: 9/21/10 6:39 PM ET
In reply to Elona
Ah thanks Elona!! I do have some poly/cotton broadcloth in my stash so I can use that. Makes sense about the poly adding stability too. I also have some cotton batiste, but only in blue so that wouldn't work.

I always do pre-wash my fabrics & woven interfacings & for cottons, I use a high dryer heat to help fully shrink it. Well, that's not completely true. I have not preshrunk the nylon fusi-knit stuff so maybe that was causing the post-wash bubbling? Guess I've always thought nylon doesn't shrink. Do I really need to preshrink the non-wovens too??
  
Member since 10/27/05
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Posted on: 9/21/10 6:49 PM ET
In reply to sewgramma
For future reference click here. Scroll down a little till you come to "interfacing" on left side. This is a great site.
  
Member since 12/1/07
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Posted on: 9/21/10 6:50 PM ET
In reply to SewVeryCreative
Thanks so much SVC!! As it happens I do have David Coffin's Shirtmaking book & it is fantastic huh!! I haven't read it cover to cover but I think I should now, because I obviously missed the part about interfacing.

Muslin makes total sense to use as interfacing & it's cheap to boot! When I get home tonight I'm going to play with my broadcloth & muslin to see which one seems better for this little shirt.

I guess I'm not alone in hating fusible interfacing! What I found particularly fabulous about DC's Shirtmaking book was the recommendations he gave for thread, stitching, understitching, trimming and topstitching. I really want this little man shirt to look like pro RTW so I'm going to follow DC's advice & use a size 65 sharp needle, size 80 YLI cotton thread and a short stitch length. Just for good measure I'm going to use a straight stitch needle plate so my fabric doesn't get sucked down into the machine.

  
Member since 7/16/07
Posts: 30016
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Posted on: 9/21/10 7:02 PM ET
In reply to SewVeryCreative
Quote:
DPC recommends *never* using fusible and instead using plain ol' muslin as interfacing.

How cool. That makes perfect sense for 100% cotton items.

Although I do like weft interfacing for most things. It just seems classier and more like fabric.

But muslin sounds like it would definitely be worth a try.

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my shield and my very great reward ~ Gen. 15:1

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If you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid. ~ Albert Einstein

People have a way of becoming what you encourage them to be, not what you nag them to be. ~ Scudder N. Parker
  
Member since 12/1/07
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Posted on: 9/21/10 7:14 PM ET
In reply to ccris
Ooooh, this website is like a candy store for interfacing & I'm going to place an order like today. I won't be able to use any of this on my little man shirt, but there will be more of those to come.

I started clicking around on the Fashion Sewing Supply site & saw that they now stock Swedish Tracing Paper at $8.89 per roll, which is the best price for this I've seen. I love this stuff for tracing patterns because pen ink won't bleed through onto the pattern. It also doesn't slide around like everything else I've tried.

Thanks ccris.
  
Member since 8/1/08
Posts: 1821
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Posted on: 9/21/10 7:29 PM ET
In reply to sewgramma
Nice tip on the Swedish Tracing Paper which I use to draft all my patterns. Depending on what type of gfabrci I use for the toddler shirts very often I will use the same fabric as the shirt to do facings. It is softer than fusible and seems to lay flatter on the necks. if I do use fusible I only use the featherweight. JoAnn carries the Pellon brand.
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It is common sense to take a method and try it. If it fails, admit it frankly and try another. But above all, try something. ~ Franklin D Roosevelt 1843
Janome 19606 ,Janome My Excel 4023, Brother 1034D, White 1750C, Kenmore 158.1803, White 764, Brother 780D.
  
Member since 8/24/02
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Posted on: 9/21/10 7:40 PM ET
In reply to sewgramma
Quote:
Do I really need to preshrink the non-wovens too??


Oh, yeaaaah! You do it by putting the stuff in a basin of very hot water, letting it sit for at least twenty minutes, gently rolling it in a towel (no dryer--you don't want to undo the little glue dots), and hanging to dry over your shower curtain rod.

And then, just before fusing the piece you have cut out, hold your steaming iron about an inch or so above the pieces and watch that interfacing shrink just a little more right before your very eyes!
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Elona
  
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