Sponsors
Sponsors
Posted on: 10/9/10 11:49 AM ET
After my Hot Patterns fiasco, I'm wondering if actually I should use a different princess seam adjustment method.
I have been using the FFRP method (I think this was only the 2nd princess seamed garment I've cut out, though, and I think the other one was a summer top I cut out but didn't finish sewing).
However, there is also the Vogue method from the Vogue fitting book which basically says "add 1/4" to the bust point for every cup size over B, and grade curve".
Has anyone tried anything similar? Would this basically be the same (for a shoulder princess) as picking the cutting lines for one size at the shoulder and another at the bust, and grading?
Would you just expand the waist if necessary after this, all round? or just at the side?
Also, could someone work out how many 1/4" adjustments would that be for someone with a UK F cup??!!
Would it make sense instead to work out how much you need to add to the bust - and just add half of that (so for me, difference between high bust and full bust = 6")? That seems a lot to add though - i.e. 3".
I have been using the FFRP method (I think this was only the 2nd princess seamed garment I've cut out, though, and I think the other one was a summer top I cut out but didn't finish sewing).
However, there is also the Vogue method from the Vogue fitting book which basically says "add 1/4" to the bust point for every cup size over B, and grade curve".
Has anyone tried anything similar? Would this basically be the same (for a shoulder princess) as picking the cutting lines for one size at the shoulder and another at the bust, and grading?
Would you just expand the waist if necessary after this, all round? or just at the side?
Also, could someone work out how many 1/4" adjustments would that be for someone with a UK F cup??!!
Would it make sense instead to work out how much you need to add to the bust - and just add half of that (so for me, difference between high bust and full bust = 6")? That seems a lot to add though - i.e. 3".
Posted on: 10/9/10 3:20 PM ET
In reply to KatieA
Have you tried the method in Fast Fit by Sandra Betzina? Page 159. It says On princess styles, increase the length 1/2 in. (1.3 cm) for every cup size beyond a B.
Would that be 2 inches rather than 3 inches? How many cup sizes from a B to a F? 4? Is there a difference between a UK F cup and a US F cup?
What was the problem before, was the result too big? Too baggy in the bust and waist?
In Fast Fit it says to spread the side front seam (the princess seam) apart at the bust cutting line and taper the spread to nothing at the side seam. It looks like a slice of pizza added with the crust being at the princess seam and the point being at the side seam. Then you have to lengthen the front pattern piece the same amount all the way across (from the princess side seam to the other edge). So if you added a 2 inch wedge (pizza crust) then you add 2 inches to the front piece at the same place you added the pizza wedge on the side front so the added places match up. Does that make sense?
This is kind of how I do it. But I also have to lower the bust point and widen the waist, so I just combine a bunch of stuff at one time. And I don't have to add 2 inches, so I'm not sure this would work for you, but if you are looking for options it may help. :)
ETA: Don't forget to lengthen the facing!!
-- Edited on 10/9/10 3:21 PM --
Would that be 2 inches rather than 3 inches? How many cup sizes from a B to a F? 4? Is there a difference between a UK F cup and a US F cup?
What was the problem before, was the result too big? Too baggy in the bust and waist?
In Fast Fit it says to spread the side front seam (the princess seam) apart at the bust cutting line and taper the spread to nothing at the side seam. It looks like a slice of pizza added with the crust being at the princess seam and the point being at the side seam. Then you have to lengthen the front pattern piece the same amount all the way across (from the princess side seam to the other edge). So if you added a 2 inch wedge (pizza crust) then you add 2 inches to the front piece at the same place you added the pizza wedge on the side front so the added places match up. Does that make sense?
This is kind of how I do it. But I also have to lower the bust point and widen the waist, so I just combine a bunch of stuff at one time. And I don't have to add 2 inches, so I'm not sure this would work for you, but if you are looking for options it may help. :)
ETA: Don't forget to lengthen the facing!!
-- Edited on 10/9/10 3:21 PM --
Posted on: 10/10/10 7:27 AM ET
I think my point is that the FFRP adjustment is REALLY complicated whereas the Vogue adjustment just regrades the bust point, basically.
In the UK you go like this
B
C
D
DD
E
F
But I believe there is also DDD and EE in the US?
In the UK you go like this
B
C
D
DD
E
F
But I believe there is also DDD and EE in the US?
Posted on: 10/10/10 8:11 AM ET
Ffrp really falls down on princess seams. woefully inadequate. See what I did for the Amy Butler Lotus Cami. Worked like a charm.
------
------
http://3hourspast.com- Vintage Style, Sewing, and Ethical Fashion
Posted on: 10/10/10 8:14 AM ET
Also, I learned to work from my high bust measure (32, though the actual measure is 34, but I have a narrow back and 32 fits exactly in the shoulders and back for me) and then do an FBA to add the required girth. This also maintains design integrity. The whole 1/2" or 3/8" for each cup size is a great place to start, but ultimately doesn't tend to give consistent results to various cup sizes.
------
------
http://3hourspast.com- Vintage Style, Sewing, and Ethical Fashion
Posted on: 10/10/10 9:19 AM ET
In reply to KatieA
I think it depends on the amount of space you need. FFRP adds both length and width to the bodice. Vogue adds only width and Fast Fit adds only length.
I have not been successful with FFRP because the method adds too much width at the waist and (believe it or not) too much length. As an F/DDD cup, I need width and length at the bust line only. I haven't returned to blouse fitting in a few months, but hope to soon. When I do, I will attempt to do an FBA on the bust part only by slicing the bodice in half at or near the waist.
Despite having problems with the sleeve and collar, the HP pattern is the closest I've ever come to having a fitted blouse.
I have not been successful with FFRP because the method adds too much width at the waist and (believe it or not) too much length. As an F/DDD cup, I need width and length at the bust line only. I haven't returned to blouse fitting in a few months, but hope to soon. When I do, I will attempt to do an FBA on the bust part only by slicing the bodice in half at or near the waist.
Despite having problems with the sleeve and collar, the HP pattern is the closest I've ever come to having a fitted blouse.
Posted on: 10/10/10 10:01 AM ET
I've tried to do a princess seam FBA and couldn't get it to look right in a shirt but did ok with a coat. I don't have a small waist by any stretch but compared to my full bust I do, so the curves is pretty dramatic.
The couple times I've done it I only added to the side front pieces in the width and length for the FBA. I did not add anything to the front piece rxcept to match the length. I think next time I'll add some width to both instead of just the one. If you need a large FBA, I think that may help.
Maybe I just don't see it, but Debbie Cook's tutorial looks just like the FFRP one to me.
Oh and also, I didn't move the bust point enough. That makes a big difference.
------
The couple times I've done it I only added to the side front pieces in the width and length for the FBA. I did not add anything to the front piece rxcept to match the length. I think next time I'll add some width to both instead of just the one. If you need a large FBA, I think that may help.
Maybe I just don't see it, but Debbie Cook's tutorial looks just like the FFRP one to me.
Oh and also, I didn't move the bust point enough. That makes a big difference.
------
http://kimsewsilly.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 10/10/10 10:27 AM ET
In reply to KatieA
the FFRP method works better for larger busts, and the 1/4 for every cup size is a starting point. The problem with just adding to the bust point is that the armscye doesn't change and it needs to so that you don't get wrinkles there.
------
------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
Posted on: 10/10/10 12:29 PM ET
In reply to KatieA
Quote:
I think my point is that the FFRP adjustment is REALLY complicated whereas the Vogue adjustment just regrades the bust point, basically.
I think my point is that the FFRP adjustment is REALLY complicated whereas the Vogue adjustment just regrades the bust point, basically.
My point is that if you don't like the FFRP adjustment, try something else until you hit on the one you like. I just gave you one other idea. You don't have to use it.
Doesn't FFRP have what people called a "Y" dart adjustment? I don't use FFRP but I remember reading it here somewhere. Maybe it will help.
I'm not familiar with cup sizes over D, sorry.
* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it.
Selected Reviews, Classes & Patterns
Fancy Frocks Fabrics
Fine Designer Fabrics
Fine Designer Fabrics







