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tools and techniques to transfer pattern cutting lines onto fabric (Moderated by EleanorSews)
Posted on: 10/10/10 4:45 PM ET
I took a break from sewing in the 80s 90s and returned a few years back to patterns. Back when I began sewing it was one size pattern and just altered that one line.
I bought lots of tracing paper, wheels, pencils, markers, and transfer paper. I cannot seem to figure out which items are used to transfer the pattern cutting lines to fabric and which items are used to transfer a purchased pattern size onto pattern paper. Or are they interchangeable?
I finally hit on using my copier to copy the pattern and cut on the size lines I need. But I HATE CUTTING! I seem to hate it so much (the time it takes to cut and pin) that I avoid even starting.
I started reading the PR Tips book and learned that if I rough cut a pattern piece onto fabric, mark the cutting lines & take it to my serger, that I can cut the seam allowances and finish the edges at the same time. I want to try this on an 8 gore skirt.
BUT to do this I would need to transfer the cutting lines to the fabric. Using tracing paper that is 9x12 and a tracing wheel will take just as much time to lay out and reposition as pinning and cutting and I can't really see the line left by the tracing paper- it is too thin and feint. Is there a better technique? I tried purple, blue and yellow paper from the sewing stores and from the art stores. If I go over it heavier, a second or third time I end up with 2-3 skinny lines, not a thicker line
How exactly would I use chalk, fabric markers or heavier pencils to get the pattern line onto a piece of fabric? Should I weight it, tape it or pin it? When the pattern is on top of the fabric how do I get the line drawn underneath it and onto the fabric? I have patterns on light tissue paper and some on heavy white paper. I would like to be able to re-use a pattern because I am changing sizes as I lose weight.
I need a thicker line on the fabric that is highly visible because I am nearsighted with glaucoma and use reading glasses. I am not worried about it being permanent since it is a cutting line, not a seam line.
Sandi in MT
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I bought lots of tracing paper, wheels, pencils, markers, and transfer paper. I cannot seem to figure out which items are used to transfer the pattern cutting lines to fabric and which items are used to transfer a purchased pattern size onto pattern paper. Or are they interchangeable?
I finally hit on using my copier to copy the pattern and cut on the size lines I need. But I HATE CUTTING! I seem to hate it so much (the time it takes to cut and pin) that I avoid even starting.
I started reading the PR Tips book and learned that if I rough cut a pattern piece onto fabric, mark the cutting lines & take it to my serger, that I can cut the seam allowances and finish the edges at the same time. I want to try this on an 8 gore skirt.
BUT to do this I would need to transfer the cutting lines to the fabric. Using tracing paper that is 9x12 and a tracing wheel will take just as much time to lay out and reposition as pinning and cutting and I can't really see the line left by the tracing paper- it is too thin and feint. Is there a better technique? I tried purple, blue and yellow paper from the sewing stores and from the art stores. If I go over it heavier, a second or third time I end up with 2-3 skinny lines, not a thicker line
How exactly would I use chalk, fabric markers or heavier pencils to get the pattern line onto a piece of fabric? Should I weight it, tape it or pin it? When the pattern is on top of the fabric how do I get the line drawn underneath it and onto the fabric? I have patterns on light tissue paper and some on heavy white paper. I would like to be able to re-use a pattern because I am changing sizes as I lose weight.
I need a thicker line on the fabric that is highly visible because I am nearsighted with glaucoma and use reading glasses. I am not worried about it being permanent since it is a cutting line, not a seam line.
Sandi in MT
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Needlework brings joy and meaning to my life...member of ASG
Now using: Singer 301, Pfaff 6152 & BL Enlighten serger
Now using: Singer 301, Pfaff 6152 & BL Enlighten serger
Posted on: 10/11/10 10:48 PM ET
In reply to SandiMacD
Well, let me try to answer your questions. I can see you're in a conundrum, so I'll try.
First, I copy my patterns. This is what makes them resellable. People don't like patterns that are cut, and copying leaves them intact. How I copy them are two different ways. I can tape the pattern onto a large window, then tape a large piece of paper (I use newsprint because it's free, but I've also used rolls of tissue paper) over the pattern. Then I take out my markers and trace off the lines I need. It's the traced version I use, mostly because it's more durable.
When I make a muslin is when I use the markers on my fabric. Most of my muslins are out of cotton fabric, and the watercolor markers are great for this. I mark all seam lines, all darts, all grainlines, etc., on the muslin. Then I take the muslin apart and use the muslin as my pattern. It's great to use things this way because I get a pattern that fits only me.
The other way I copy my patterns is I will take my needlepoint tracing wheel (this looks like a regular tracing wheel, but the points are actually pins that can stick you if you aren't careful) a pattern with a piece of newsprint underneath, and use the tracing wheel to mark the paper by rolling it on the needed lines on the pattern. This way is a little more difficult to see, though, because you have to look closely to see the pinholes left by the points on the tracing wheel. I've seen others' tips on copying their patterns this way but instead of leaving it on a table to copy, they lay it on the floor and the carpet helps to keep everything down, especially with pattern weights (spoons, soup cans, etc. I use metal washers)
I use the colored paper only when making marks on my fabric such as darts and pleats; the paper is too small to use for pattern tracing.
I hope I've helped. I'm sure someone will chime in here with better answers.
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First, I copy my patterns. This is what makes them resellable. People don't like patterns that are cut, and copying leaves them intact. How I copy them are two different ways. I can tape the pattern onto a large window, then tape a large piece of paper (I use newsprint because it's free, but I've also used rolls of tissue paper) over the pattern. Then I take out my markers and trace off the lines I need. It's the traced version I use, mostly because it's more durable.
When I make a muslin is when I use the markers on my fabric. Most of my muslins are out of cotton fabric, and the watercolor markers are great for this. I mark all seam lines, all darts, all grainlines, etc., on the muslin. Then I take the muslin apart and use the muslin as my pattern. It's great to use things this way because I get a pattern that fits only me.
The other way I copy my patterns is I will take my needlepoint tracing wheel (this looks like a regular tracing wheel, but the points are actually pins that can stick you if you aren't careful) a pattern with a piece of newsprint underneath, and use the tracing wheel to mark the paper by rolling it on the needed lines on the pattern. This way is a little more difficult to see, though, because you have to look closely to see the pinholes left by the points on the tracing wheel. I've seen others' tips on copying their patterns this way but instead of leaving it on a table to copy, they lay it on the floor and the carpet helps to keep everything down, especially with pattern weights (spoons, soup cans, etc. I use metal washers)
I use the colored paper only when making marks on my fabric such as darts and pleats; the paper is too small to use for pattern tracing.
I hope I've helped. I'm sure someone will chime in here with better answers.
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"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine
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Posted on: 10/12/10 1:28 AM ET
Thanks for giving me so many details - it really was helpful. I am going to look for some watercolor markers.
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Needlework brings joy and meaning to my life...member of ASG
Now using: Singer 301, Pfaff 6152 & BL Enlighten serger
Now using: Singer 301, Pfaff 6152 & BL Enlighten serger
Posted on: 10/12/10 3:56 AM ET
In reply to SandiMacD
What I do is cut out the paper pattern pieces very precisely with scissors, then lay them on top of the prepared fabric. Sometimes I pin them in place, other times I put weights on them. Then, using a piece of chalk, I trace around these pieces onto the fabric. I usually make it neat by following the edges with a sharp piece, but you can just make a bunch of little dashes across the edges and onto the fabric if you want, using any old piece of chalk. It doesn't make a huge difference. When I'm done, I remove the paper pieces, then *cut away* everything that's marked with chalk. This is the method used by professionals, and the easiest by far.
I find it helpful to use a 28mm rotary cutter, and trace the original pattern using a big, cheap roll of white tracing paper before I get started. That not only lets you experiment with the fit, but real tracing paper is slightly more rigid and easier to trace around with the chalk. The paper that pattern companies use would crumple and be impossible to use that way. You can go a step further and transfer the pattern to some thick manila paper if you like, but I find it unnecessary.
So:
1. Lay tracing paper (translucent, not carbon) over pattern and trace your size.
2. Cut out the traced paper pieces.
3. Lay them in place on your fabric and trace around them with chalk.
4. Cut away chalk lines.
-- Edited on 10/12/10 4:00 AM --
I find it helpful to use a 28mm rotary cutter, and trace the original pattern using a big, cheap roll of white tracing paper before I get started. That not only lets you experiment with the fit, but real tracing paper is slightly more rigid and easier to trace around with the chalk. The paper that pattern companies use would crumple and be impossible to use that way. You can go a step further and transfer the pattern to some thick manila paper if you like, but I find it unnecessary.
So:
1. Lay tracing paper (translucent, not carbon) over pattern and trace your size.
2. Cut out the traced paper pieces.
3. Lay them in place on your fabric and trace around them with chalk.
4. Cut away chalk lines.
-- Edited on 10/12/10 4:00 AM --
Posted on: 10/13/10 11:49 PM ET
In reply to Teagarden
Do you have a resource for the tracing paper rolls?
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Needlework brings joy and meaning to my life...member of ASG
Now using: Singer 301, Pfaff 6152 & BL Enlighten serger
Now using: Singer 301, Pfaff 6152 & BL Enlighten serger
Posted on: 10/13/10 11:53 PM ET
I just read about an open mesh canvas that you lay on the pattern and trace with a thick marker. Then you take the mesh canvas and lay it on your fabric and trace again. The marker goes through the mesh and writes on the fabric. It's about $16 and I don't know how much mesh canvas comes in the roll but it's got me thinking about other ways.
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Needlework brings joy and meaning to my life...member of ASG
Now using: Singer 301, Pfaff 6152 & BL Enlighten serger
Now using: Singer 301, Pfaff 6152 & BL Enlighten serger
Posted on: 10/14/10 10:30 AM ET
Medical exam table paper works beautifully as tracing paper and is considerably cheaper. You should be able to find it in any medical supply store. It's also on eBay, but becomes not-so-cheap once shipping is applied since the rolls are heavy.
For marking the cutting line, I would weight the pattern to the fabric, fold the tissue back to the cutting line and use a purple disappearing marker if the fabric's light, and tailor's chalk if it's dark to follow along the edge. This works really well for straight edges. For curved edges, poke a few pins through the tissue cutting line into the fabric and then lift the tissue up enough to get under and mark where the pins are with your pen/chalk. Then take the tissue off, do your rough cut, head to your serger and follow your lines.
I hope this makes as much sense in writing as it does in my head. LOL
For marking the cutting line, I would weight the pattern to the fabric, fold the tissue back to the cutting line and use a purple disappearing marker if the fabric's light, and tailor's chalk if it's dark to follow along the edge. This works really well for straight edges. For curved edges, poke a few pins through the tissue cutting line into the fabric and then lift the tissue up enough to get under and mark where the pins are with your pen/chalk. Then take the tissue off, do your rough cut, head to your serger and follow your lines.
I hope this makes as much sense in writing as it does in my head. LOL
Posted on: 10/15/10 6:53 AM ET
In reply to SandiMacD
Sorry for not replying sooner. This is what I bought . 50 yards of white in 36 inch width, which I assume will last me a while. It did cost $26 after shipping, though, so it had better! There are probably cheaper solutions, and the mesh you mentioned sounds interesting (though not right for some fabrics).
Posted on: 10/15/10 3:04 PM ET
In reply to SandiMacD
This sounds really interesting! Can you provide a source? There are times when this would really come in handy.
Posted on: 10/15/10 4:19 PM ET
In reply to SandiMacD
Quote:
which items are used to transfer the pattern cutting lines to fabric
which items are used to transfer the pattern cutting lines to fabric
I'm not sure why you'd need to transfer the cutting lines to the fabric. If you pin your pattern (or traced pattern) onto the fabric, you can just cut the fabric and tissue together, i.e. cut on the cutting lines shown on the pattern tissue. I think this is the more common method. Transferring lines to fabric sounds somewhat iffier to me, especially since the fabric might shift around a bit.
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