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Member since 8/9/10
Posts: 359
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Posted on: 11/6/10 6:44 AM ET
Don't know about most of you, but I thought that when taking
the crotch measurement, you had the person sit on a chair and
then you measured straight down from the waist to where the
seat meets the seat.

Well while reading Lynn MacIntyre's book "Easy Guide to sewing Pants" I noticed she does it a little different. First she uses tape to mark the measure lines which a lot of people do. But then, when she measures for the crotch length, instead of measuring straight down perpendicular to the floor, she goes from the center of the waist line on the side to where the thigh line meets the chair. This puts it more at an angle and would increase the length you get. Now it may only be an inch or two but with that area being a major point and causes a lot of trouble with finished garments, I thought it was something to consider when adjusting or drafting a pattern.
Does this surprise you or am I the only one who didn't know this? LOL,, probably the latter.

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just Carl

skycarlsskyblog.blogspot.com/

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Member since 9/3/06
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Posted on: 11/6/10 7:49 AM ET
In reply to Skycarl
I, also, didn't know this. In fact, I've seen illustrations on how to measure that go straigth down to the chair. I'm trying to figure out a pair of pants now, so I'll try this method.
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2009-113.25 yds
2010-115.5
2011-80.25+30+donated
2012 86.3 yds..
2013 21.0
Everyone who sews seriously has a stockpile of fabrics, because it is natural to purchase more than can be sewn in any one season" Singer, Timesaving Sewing, 1987

  
Member since 4/3/10
Posts: 1598
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Posted on: 11/6/10 8:02 AM ET
I have had the best luck with this crotch measurement technique.


It takes a flexible ruler or somthing with the same bend-a-bility (many people use rolled up aluminum foil). It's been talked to death on these boards but was helpful to me. The benefit of this method is that you can see where you need more room (low butt, belly, etc) not just the crotch length. You can line it up with your pattern pieces and compare.
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Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson
  
Member since 4/20/09
Posts: 466
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Posted on: 11/6/10 8:22 AM ET
I do both methods, check the flex/stretch of the fabric, and sort of go more to one than the other as is suitable for the inherent stretch of what I am sewing.

I stiff and non-stretch such as a silk ottomon, on on hand is less forgiving than a knit. Thus, I give more room in the ottomon.

I'd never used the flexible ruler though, just used strings, good estimates, and repeated fittings. I am going to use flexible rulers from now on, as I got one and boy oh boy is that an easier tool to use than the repeated tweek and adjust. Thanks for the hints.
  
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 1442
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Posted on: 11/6/10 9:47 AM ET
In reply to MNBarb
How do you keep the correct distance from the ends of the ruler? Whenever I do this I have a hard time maintaining the actual body distance from each end by the time I try to trace it out.
  
Member since 10/27/05
Posts: 5976
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Posted on: 11/6/10 1:00 PM ET
In reply to Skycarl
I haven't read her book, but, as far as I know, that measurement is for crotch depth, not length. Even so, it's interesting she feels a need to add there. Makes sense, I think. Maybe not so much sense if a person has a flat derriere, though. Hmmm
  
Member since 8/9/10
Posts: 359
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Posted on: 11/6/10 1:06 PM ET
In reply to ccris
You are right ccris, it is crotch depth. My mistake on terminology.
I was just thinking when you mark the draft to draw.
Good call so everyone knows what I mean.
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just Carl

skycarlsskyblog.blogspot.com/

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Posted on: 11/6/10 1:13 PM ET
In reply to Skycarl
I didn't know it either and I never had good luck with the ''measurement on the chair'' technique. I'll definitely try this. Thanks.
  
Member since 8/9/10
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Posted on: 11/6/10 2:01 PM ET
Since I goofed the description, I drew a fast sketch of what I mean.

click here
-- Edited on 11/6/10 2:02 PM --
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just Carl

skycarlsskyblog.blogspot.com/

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Posted on: 11/6/10 2:56 PM ET
Most books I've come across use the measurement taken straight down. I wonder if there's a different way of using the measurement arrived at by measuring at an angle - obviously you'd get a longer length. I read another way of checking the length of the crotch curve, (might have been in fantastic fit for everybody, but I'm not sure). This is to take 3 tape measures, tape 2 of them together so the numbers read off in opposite directions, and tape the third one to them where they meet so it is at right angles to them.Loop the two you taped first into a U shape, step into it.Then you move the first two around while letting the third one hang down to represent the best position of the inseam, and then read off the measurement for the front and back at your waist level.
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