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Member since 6/18/10
Posts: 62
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Posted on: 3/21/11 12:11 PM ET
Hello,

I am working on a pattern (Vogue V8675). It is a light jacket and I used a sweatshirt material that is thicker than anything I have sewn before. I still have to finish the hem and the sleeve cuff.

Does anyone have suggestions for how to do this because if I follow the instructions in the pattern, I think the cuff and hem will perhaps be too bulky. I have a sewing machine and a serger. I used the serger only for the side seams. I only really know how to do a 4 thread stitch so far on the serger. My machine doesn't have a coverstitch which I know some people use for hemming....

Thanks for any suggestions.....

Lisa
  
Member since 11/9/05
Posts: 418
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Posted on: 3/21/11 12:19 PM ET
I don't have a serger but if I were hemming this style/fabric I would zagzag the edge of the hem allowance, then press up the hem. Then I would insert a strip of Stitch Witchery under the hem allowance along the edge and press. That will keep the hem flat for topstitching and not create ripples/stretch when stitching. But that's just me, I'm sure there are other methods that involve a serger and/or "newer" techniques.
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kwpanthermom
  
Member since 6/14/06
Posts: 557
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Posted on: 3/21/11 1:18 PM ET
You don't need to zigzag unless you want a more finished look on the inside; thet thread will give you a tad more bulk. You could then use a double needle in your sewing machine if you wanted the look of a cover stitched hem.

You definitely don't need to press under 1/4" and then fold up the hem, which is what I'm guessing the instructions tell you to do.
  
Member since 1/7/09
Posts: 2310
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Posted on: 3/21/11 1:38 PM ET
In reply to Lisabeth60
I'm also a beginner (disclaimer) but finished 2 sweatshirts in the past couple weeks. Are you turning the hem over and stitching as you would on a t-shirt? I did my son's SS with self-fabric bands and that was a bulkier finish than the one I made for myself, which I used a t-shirt pattern for. I serged the ends of the sleeve hemlines, turned them over one inch, pressed, pinned and top-stitched with a 4.0 twin needle over that serged edge, feeling for it through the fabric with my finger so I wouldn't miss areas. The effect looks like a coverstitch stitch finish both inside and out. It didn't add much bulk at all. HTH's

Both my fabrics were medium weight but neither - one a bamboo-rayon/cotton blend and the other 100% cotton - were stretchy jerseys types or had lycra or poly in them. Don't know how these other fabrics might behave.
  
Member since 6/18/10
Posts: 62
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Posted on: 3/21/11 2:07 PM ET
Thanks to all of you for your replies. I am trying to process the advice!

First, what is Stitch Witchery? I can kind of imagine, but do you sew it in, or just insert and press ? I don't have anything like that at home now. I have "stay tape" which I believe is for stabilizing shoulder seams for knits and I have interfacing of various types.....

I haven't used the double needle yet but I probably can figure that out. I don't think I have done top stitching but that also doesn't seem difficult. I can look in my books.....

I haven't used the serger yet on anything but seams. I am trying to picture using it on the cuff and get nervous about it. I still don't feel confident using the serger - but I am getting better....

For the bottom hem, I was thinking of serging it along the bottom edge and then folding it up an inch and pressing and pinning it. Then I was considering doing a zig zag (since it is a knit) or trying to figure out the double needle.....

Thanks, this gives me several options.... I appreciate it. I love this forum!

Lisa
  
Member since 3/16/07
Posts: 888
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Posted on: 3/21/11 2:21 PM ET
In reply to Lisabeth60
Quote: Lisabeth60
For the bottom hem, I was thinking of serging it along the bottom edge and then folding it up an inch and pressing and pinning it. Then I was considering doing a zig zag (since it is a knit) or trying to figure out the double needle.....


I think this will work great for you.

Stitch Witchery is a double-sided fusible tape. You can get a similar product in sheets (I'm not sure if it's also called Stitch Witchery).
  
Member since 1/7/09
Posts: 2310
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Posted on: 3/21/11 2:42 PM ET
In reply to Lisabeth60
Quote:
I haven't used the serger yet on anything but seams. I am trying to picture using it on the cuff and get nervous about it. For the bottom hem, I was thinking of serging it along the bottom edge and then folding it up an inch and pressing and pinning it.

This is what I meant by serging the hem cuff (the bottom edge) and turning over to stitch like the bottom hem. I have trouble explaining myself clearly. I've only used the twin needle on the last 3 tops. Before that I had trouble with the narrower twin (2.5mm) and used a stretch stitch to topstitch with, or a very tiny zigzag too.
  
Member since 7/19/03
Posts: 3916
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Posted on: 3/21/11 4:29 PM ET
I'd personally skip the serger step (fleece won't ravel) and just fold it up an inch, press it and sew it down. You can either use a double needle or sew around the hem twice, spacing the stitches so it looks like a double needle or coverstitch. Length your stitch so it looks more 'authentic' (and so it's less likely to stretch out due to too much thread being packed into the space.)
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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com
  
Member since 12/1/07
Posts: 244
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Posted on: 3/21/11 4:49 PM ET
I would serge the edges with a 3-thread overlock & then do a blind hem on your sewing machine. Just take out the left needle on your serger to do a 3-thread overlock. I would definitely not use Stitch Witchery because it doesn't give with the knit sweatshirt fabric. You'd end up with rigid hems that would be uncomfortable at best and rip out at worst.
  
Member since 1/7/09
Posts: 2310
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Posted on: 3/21/11 4:58 PM ET
In reply to goodworks1
Quote:
I'd personally skip the serger step (fleece won't ravel)
Thanks for mentioning this. I just finished serging together the cut ends of another 6.5 yds. of fleece to prewash. I've been doing this right along, now I won't have to! (unless it's a long piece and I don't want to have the strangled-agitator thing)
  
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