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When do I need to do this? (Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952)
Posted on: 4/15/11 1:03 PM ET
I have read and re-read all the links and boards for the FBA. I think I understand how to do an FBA. What I am having problems with is when and who needs to do it. I am sewing for my daughter and she lives just far enough away it is not always convenient to have her try things on. I know her high bust, her full bust and all the other measurements.
There is only about 1 1/2 inches between high and full bust. Do I need to do an FBA? She is a plus size so I am thinking maybe the pattern will add enough ease by itself. I know sometimes you just need to do a muslin, but what is the 'Rule of Thumb?' Or is there one?
Thanks
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There is only about 1 1/2 inches between high and full bust. Do I need to do an FBA? She is a plus size so I am thinking maybe the pattern will add enough ease by itself. I know sometimes you just need to do a muslin, but what is the 'Rule of Thumb?' Or is there one?
Thanks
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Karen
Posted on: 4/15/11 1:27 PM ET
In reply to KarenTeel
Karen, it really depends on her cup size. Most patterns are made for a B cup. I think the "rule of thumb" is a cup size for every inch difference between high bust and full bust. Example, I'm a 32 high bust and a 36 full, I wear a 34D bra. The 4 inch difference indicates that I need room for the girls. The D cup bra is also an indcation. Fit for Real People has a chart: 1 inch difference: A...2 inches B...3 inches C, and so on. They also say it can depend on the rib cage. Those with a larger rib cage may need a bit of an FBA as well. It's all in the measurements. Hope this helps.
Posted on: 4/15/11 1:49 PM ET
Hi Karen. Not a stupid question, but a complicated one.
If her measurement differences are only 1 1/2, she may not need a fba. "most commercial patterns are made for women with a B-cup (no more than 2.5″ difference between bust and high bust measurements)" So first question, what is her cup size?
And, yes, the ease designed into the pattern can mean you do not need to do a fba. Have her measure something that fits her and is similar to what you are making. You measure the pattern pieces to get the finished measurements for comparison. That may help.
Plus size patterns are getting better, but beware, some have so much ease they fit like a sack. Burda makes great plus patterns. You can get more pattern suggestions on the Plus Board.
Ask away -- that is what makes this place great.
Kathy
If her measurement differences are only 1 1/2, she may not need a fba. "most commercial patterns are made for women with a B-cup (no more than 2.5″ difference between bust and high bust measurements)" So first question, what is her cup size?
And, yes, the ease designed into the pattern can mean you do not need to do a fba. Have her measure something that fits her and is similar to what you are making. You measure the pattern pieces to get the finished measurements for comparison. That may help.
Plus size patterns are getting better, but beware, some have so much ease they fit like a sack. Burda makes great plus patterns. You can get more pattern suggestions on the Plus Board.
Ask away -- that is what makes this place great.
Kathy
Posted on: 4/15/11 2:15 PM ET
Don't forget to take into account the width of her back. If she has a broad back, that can also affect the correct bust size to choose. FFRP mentions this, as it is a fitting adjustment that Marta Alto (co-author) routinely makes for herself.
Posted on: 4/15/11 3:27 PM ET
Oh my, so quick with the responses. 
I am at work and somewhere in here I must give my employer his just due.
She is built like me, straight up and down - rectangle. She measures 50 full bust, 50 waist, 50 hips. No broad back, sway back or anything else we can think of. High bust 48 1/2. So I am hoping an FBA may not be necessary. Cup size - boy at least DD maybe DDD straight out and proud as she says.
When I read the FFRP I guess I did not really understand it. And, yes, pattern companies and designers have different ease in their patterns. I learned that when I made myself a fleece jacket from Kwik Sew; made a medium and it is just huge. Unfortunately that comes under the heading of 'read the reviews or pay the price'.
So, what do you think? Try without one on a muslin and see what happens?


Thanks
------

I am at work and somewhere in here I must give my employer his just due.
She is built like me, straight up and down - rectangle. She measures 50 full bust, 50 waist, 50 hips. No broad back, sway back or anything else we can think of. High bust 48 1/2. So I am hoping an FBA may not be necessary. Cup size - boy at least DD maybe DDD straight out and proud as she says.
When I read the FFRP I guess I did not really understand it. And, yes, pattern companies and designers have different ease in their patterns. I learned that when I made myself a fleece jacket from Kwik Sew; made a medium and it is just huge. Unfortunately that comes under the heading of 'read the reviews or pay the price'.
So, what do you think? Try without one on a muslin and see what happens?


Thanks
------
Karen
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